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1067650 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1067650
31 - 45 of 638

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Ice maker water outlet freezes and prevents flow
20 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alexander from Miami, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Get refrigerator out away from the wall. Disconnect from power. Loosen 3 and remove 3 or 4 screws to uncover fan, compressor and water inlet valve (WIV). By hand remove plastic hoses that feed the water dispenser and ice maker feed. Unscrew 2 screws that hold WIV her you need the Spring U Joint (SUJ) or equivalent. Pull wires and make men tal note or picture the way they fit. They retain the memory the way they came out. With adjustable or wrench remove tube that comes from the filter. Remover black rubber protector from WIV. Install the last hose you removed. Tighten by hand and finish with the wrench used to remove it. Don't over tighten. Maybe 3/4 turn or less after hand tight will do. The difficult part is to re-install the screws that hold the WIV in place, again you need the SUJ. The alternative would be to empty the shelves from anything that will spill or break and have someone tilt the refrigerator and access from below. I used the 1st method as I didn't have the extra help. Install the water dispenser hose (by hand), blow compressed air to the ice dispenser hose to clear the ice. There is another plastic hose just above and behind the dispenser which must be removed to clear the ice that is being blown. After the ice is clear re-install the one in the freezer. That one is just pressure held be careful not to break when replacing it. Re-install by hand the ice dispenser hose to the WIV. Replace the cardboard cover that was 1st removed to access the components. Power the refrigerator and you are ready to make fresh ice. My ice maker lever was stuck at 1st. I released pressure from the metal wire lever and wiggled up and down several times to loosen up.
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Water began to leak under the refrigerator. Source looked like it was coming from control valve suppling water to ice maker and water dispenser.
21 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jesse from hacienda heights, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Followed instructions supplied. It was relatively easy and the parts fit exactly right. Sears wanted twice as much for the part and service would have charged me another $100 to come to my home. I saved over $100 doing the project myself.
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paint on bottom of ice maker was flaking into ice
17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Newburgh, IN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1. shutoff water
2. removed 3 screws holding old ice maker. A small nut or screw driver is needed to get into a somewhat tight area
3. detached electrical connector
4. cut indicated area for water inlet to lie in
4. attached new electrical connector (no splicing needed)
5. attached new ice maker with 3 screws ... Read more >6. put on water
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Slow to produce ice & tray damage
16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tim from Leander, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the top two screws and one on the bottom which attach the ice maker to the side of the freezer. I unclipped the wire bundle from the side of the ice maker and unplugged the connector, totally removing the unit . The maker came with several different wiring setups, but I just used the existing. The contol arm on the new unit bas ically snaps into place and the above process is reversed to install the new unit. My old ice maker had an accelerator which blows cold air to the bottom of the tray to speed up ice production. This component was undamaged and by taking off the new units outer end cap and borrowing the clips from the old unit, this component can be installed on the new ice maker.
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Freezer was not staying cold enugh for ice maker to work. Discovered fan was not working to cool condensor. Fan motor would only run if manually turned.
14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Cedarville, OH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplugged refrigerator. Removed lower back access panels and panel running up the back of refrigerator. Removed and disconnected old fan. Removed old fan motor from mounting bracket. Removed fan blade from old fan motor and placed on new fan motor. Connected new fan motor to power supply. Tested. Reinstalled.
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light inside fridge was flickering and clicking
20 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • bill from escondido, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok
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Wasn't making ice
13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Albert from Centereach, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Took off door to ice maker. Unscrewed 1 nut. Slid out unit. Unplugged electrical connector. Unsrewed 3 nuts from bottom of old unit & attached mounting bracket to new unit. Reconnected electric connector. Slid back in. Put screw back in. Put icemaker door back on. Turned icemaker on. Ice in 20 minutes!
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I had frost build-up in the freezer.
15 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Arnold, ME
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I took the cover off the control settings and found the timer. Removed two screws and replaced the defective one with the new one. Had to pay attention to directions since the timer is used in different ways and to make sure the loose wire was installed correctly (not the same way as the original ground was connected).
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No Water out dispenser & ice maker did not work
13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from Davenport, IA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Pulled close out panel exposing valve kit. Removed water lines, removed retaining screw, removed both electrical connections. Installed electrical connections on new valve, installed assembly, connected water lines. Replaced ice maker by removing three screws, unplugged connection. Installed connector on new unit , installed screws and pl ugged in unit. Everything worked just fine.
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Refrigerator quit refrigerating
15 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Hudson, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed 2 control panel knobs and face plate that is snaped in place using a knife to prey it causing to snape lose.
Removed 4 cover screws that gave me acess to Defrost Timer. Remove two fastining screws on timer unit. Remove electrical color coded 4 prong connector plug. Have to make sure black jumper wire on the new timer kit is connected to the correct one of the 4 prongs as to instruction sheet for my model refrigerator. Reassemble in reverse order. Bingo! Fixed.
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My Fan in the Freezer was making a loud noise
15 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Imperial, MO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I went on the web to search for parts, did my screening of companies, and chose Partselect.com
They gave me accurate information, very nice, and double checked the part numbers, and the latest replacement part. I received it in a couple of days, followed the directions, and it's working just fine! I saved a lot of money through Parts elect, instead of buying a new refrigerator.
NICE JOB Partselect!!
Thanks,
Michael
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The Ice maker would not work.
22 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jerry from Boulder, CO
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
We rolled the refrigerator out away from the wall and it was obvious where the break was located. We took out the old water spout for the ice maker and replaced the tube and the tubing from the solenoid. We turned it on and soon we had water dripping everywhere. We unloaded and defrosted the freezer which got all of the remaining ice th at was stuck in there. We put everything back together. I read in some instructions in the manual that it might take 24 hours for the ice maker to reprogram itself and start producing ice. I was only about 12 hours and we had ice again and everything worked well. You really do not have to disconnect the water from the main line, the solinoid controls that part of operation and turns the water off until the ice trays are free and clear.

JLB
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Water dripping from door dispenser
12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Sacramento, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
The part received was a straight replacement part - no modification required, just a simple remove and replace. This made the job really easy. Used the socket set to lower the front wheels to move the refrigerator, the nutdriver to remove the back cover and the valve, and the adjustable wrench to remove the water line. I had to cut the supply line tubing because the ferrule was too far up the line to make a good seal (minor leak quickly corrected with parts available in the kit - nice touch!) What took the most time was cleaning the coils and lint, etc. - hey I hadn't moved the unit in years! - but I did not include the 45-60 minutes this took in the repair time. Directions supplied were clear and easy to follow - but in my case I could have done the job without them - easy to see what needed to be done, but the stated precautions were nice.
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No water to icemaker
12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Walter from Willis, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The replacement valve was identical to the old one, so I didn't have to use any of the adapter parts sent with the new valve. This made the installation rather simple. After removing the back cover on the lower part of the refrigerator, I turned off the water and electrical supplies, and removed the water supply line to the valve. Then I removed the two screws securing the valve to the refrigerator. Next, I removed the two electrical connections from the valve, and unscrewed the plastic nuts holding the tubing to the valve. I didn't have to use a wrench to do this as they were hand tight, so when I attached the tubing to the new valve I tightened the nuts hand tight. This seemed to be sufficient and avoided the possibility of stripping the nuts. After checking for leaks, I attached the electrical connections and secured the new valve to the refrigerator. Then I attached the water supply line, but before replacing the back cover, I turned on the refrigerator, and let it cycle through it's first load of ice.
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Noise coming from defrost timer
12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Pottstown, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
First I unplugged appliance then I remove two screws from the thermostat/light cover. I then remove two defrost timer mounting screws and all electrical connectors. Then utilizing instructions recieved with new defrost timer I ascertained which wires should go where. When I was sure I had the wires ready I connected them to the others in the appliance and plugged the appliance in to ensure that the noise was no longer heard and made sure timer was working. Everything seemed fine so I unplugged appliance and secured two defrost timer mounting screws and thermostat/light cover mounting screws and that was that.
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All Instructions for the 1067650
31 - 45 of 638