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1067645310 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Light switch which turns on the lights when the door opens went out
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Dennis from Lawrenceville, GA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver
This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.
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frosted evaperator
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Burton from Mount ShaSTA, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
I was a Sears repair man for fourty eight years , so I don"t think I should say how easy this was.
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exchange of defective light rocker switch
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Steve from River Edge, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch
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The Refrigerator Was Running But Blowing Hot Air, Everything In Freezer Had Defrosted.
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Jeanne from Fairview Heights, IL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First I watched the video on your website, it was quite helpful. It showed me the location of the part to be replaced. Then I used the nut driver to remove a couple of screws, and slowly pulled the cover off . Once I pulled the cover down I could see the part that needed replacing, it had a couple of phillips head screws holding it in
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place, I removed those screws and unplugged the defrost timer, taking note of the color of the wires. Then I took the new defrost timer and attached the loose wire to the correct terminal according to the directions(this is where the color of your wires comes in), then I plugged in the new defrost timer and replaced the screws. I then reattached the cover making sure not to pinch any of the wires, and replaced the screws. It was so easy I was sure I did something wrong and it wouldn't work, but I plugged the refrigerator back in and let it sit for about 20 minutes and then when I checked it was running cool. I'm 55 years old and never had the nerve to try anything like this before but since my husband passed away I've had to try things myself or replace a lot of appliances. If I can do it anyone can.
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Light in the refrigerator didn't work
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Anthony from Fairport, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.
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Light switch went bad
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Joseph T. from Morgantown, WV
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th
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No Light
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Mary from Jefferson Township, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Took socket out and replace it with new one. Very easy. W saved alot of money doing it ourself.
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fan motor did not run all the time
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Charles from Marion, IN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
unpluged refrigerator. removed panel in front of fan. Removed the fan motor. Installed the new fan kit. Replaced the panel in front of fan. Pluged the refrigerator back in. The refrigerator runs a 100 percent better
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light would come on and off
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Dora from Rock Island, IL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do
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Fridge door shelf restraining bar clip broken
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John from Palm Beach Gardens, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Could not believe it was possible to find the part (PS395649 Door Shelf End Cap) on our 25 year old fridge. PartSelect came thru like a Pro. Part arrived in 2 days and went in place immediately. Excellent Excellent Excellent PartSelect! Great support to a worried home-owner.
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Plastic end clip broke and items could fall to floor
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Rosemarie from Elizabethton, TN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Removed the broken clip and slid on the new one. Replaced bar across shelf.
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Evaporator Would Freeze Up And The Food Section Could'nt Cool
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michael from buchanan, TN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I just followed the enclosed instructions
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Water was running into refrig from freezer and ice cream was soft
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William from Delano, MN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver
We wasted time looking for the electrical schematic on our refrigerator (the first step in the instructions). By skipping that and reading further in the instructions, the type of cooling that the refrigerator has can easily be determined by the colors of the wires that go to the defrost timer. You need to know this to set up the timer
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properly for your specific refrigerator. Had I just started there, the entire repair would have taken less than 10 minutes. Very simple repair and it works like a charm, no more water coming into the refrigerator and the ice cream is rock hard. Glad we didn't have to spend lots on a new appliance. Thanks Part Select.com! BH
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No light in frig
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Irene from Whitehall, MT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
We tried repairing with a new switch which was very easy to install but it didn't fix the problem.
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Light did not come on (bad bulb!) on TC18KL
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Louis from Beloit, WI
- A Bit Difficult
- Less than 15 mins
I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged th
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e unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.
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