If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-metal thermostat is to clip onto the evaporator and protect your evaporator from overheating during the defrost cycle. If your refrigerator doe...Read mores not defrost properly you can test both the thermostat and the heater to figure out which part is at fault. For this repair, you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a 1/4 inch nut driver, a flat blade screwdriver, a pair of wire strippers, a roll of electrical tape, and a few butt splice connectors.
This hinge bracket, also known as a door stop, is attached to the bottom of the door and is used to limit how far the door swings out to protect the refrigerator itself, and any surrounding cabinets from potential damage. If your fridge is having issues opening or staying closed, check the hinges for any damage or cracking. To replace thi...Read mores bracket, simply remove the door off your refrigerator, unscrew and remove this bracket from the bottom of the door, and install the new one. This hinge bracket is an OEM replacement and is compatible with several different makes and models of refrigerator.
You've got an issue? We have the solution! Let us introduce you to our latch and handle assembly tailor-made for your GE range. Having issues with your oven door during self-cleaning cycles? No worries, this assembly provides a solid locking feature, making sure your oven door remains secure and safe throughout the cycle. Remember, befo...Read morere getting started on those repairs, it?s key to switch off the electrical power connected to your range. This safety step is not to be skipped or taken lightly. We also encourage you to put on those work gloves while handling and installing this assembly, keeping your hands safe and protected. So, why is this part so important? It's simple?it's the one component that ensures your oven door stays locked when it's required, preventing any mishaps during self-cleaning cycles. Plus, with the GE brand on it, you are assured the part you've got in your hand is top quality and durable. Ready to give your range a new lease on life and have it working just like new? It's time to get that latch and handle assembly installed!
The Compressor Start Relay with Overload is an essential component for refrigerators, designed to ensure your compressor starts efficiently. This genuine OEM part is compatible with various refrigerator models. The relay attaches to the compressor and helps initiate the motor, allowing the refrigerator to operate smoothly. With the built-...Read morein overload protection, it also provides a safeguard to prevent potential damage to the compressor. Installation requires safety precautions—be sure to unplug the refrigerator and store any perishable items before proceeding with the repair. Wear work gloves to protect your hands from sharp edges or electrical components during installation. It’s important to follow the manufacturer's guidelines when replacing the start relay, and to verify compatibility with your specific refrigerator model, as slight variations in size or shape may occur between different models.
Having trouble with your microwave's turntable? Meet the Whirlpool Microwave Turn Ring - your solution for a smooth-rotating turntable tray. It?s an essential piece for your microwave, produced by Whirlpool, focused on quality and reliability. This authentic OEM accessory ensures that your microwave's turntable tray rotates with ease, pro...Read moreviding you a much more consistent cooking experience. Here's a tip: while this turn ring might look similar to other parts, it's important to match it with your model number to ensure a flawless fit. You have the liberty to use it with various models from brands like Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Inglis, and Magic Chef. Isn't that versatile? Installation is a breeze with this Whirlpool turn ring. Just refer to your owner's manual for detailed instructions and you're all set. Get your microwave back to performing like new with the Whirlpool Microwave Turn Ring and enjoy a seamless cooking experience.
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
159 of 188 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Cathy from Winter Park, FL
A Bit Difficult
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info: The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n
... Read moreot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
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Auto Defrost Freezer keeps defrosting SIDE BY SIDE KITCHENAID
38 of 48 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
James from Ringoes, NJ
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
DISCONNECT POWER. Removed all shelves/baskets.Popped upper panel off (just clips in) Removed 6 screws in lower back panel ( 3 each side) slid panel in place but down. You can then easily see the defrost thermostat/defrost termination switch. Cut the wire connectors (pink n brown wire) stripped back wire, attached new defrost thermostat.
... Read moreThermostat clips on. New thermostat ohm's at 5.5, old one was "open". Slid cover back up meeting the upper cover grooves. Screwed lower panel in. Put shelves etc back in. Plugged in. Turns on, put a bottle of water in freezer. Checked a while later, frozen. has been frozen for a week. -James
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Refrigerator Wasn't Cooling,Evaporater Coil Freezing Up
38 of 50 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Robert from Doral, FL
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Pliers, Screw drivers
I have a side by side so in order to access the bi-metal switch I first had to empty out the freezer. The switch is clipped on to the top of the evaporator coil. I had to remove 8 screws to remove the back panel of the freezer compartment. The bi-metal switch was right there in plain view. There are two colored wires that come out of
... Read morethe switch. I tried pulling them out of the socket they were plugged into but gave up for fear of breaking something. I ended up cutting the wires and splicing them together. I used the plastic twist caps. I made sure when I closed everything back up that the open end of the caps were pointing down so no water can accumulate in them. It has been 3 days now and so far so good