1067299 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burn ... Read more ed. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.

The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.

Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/h ... Read more eater. Replace with new. Reassemble.

r&r fan blade and motor. with the parts you supplied it was easy. the parts were perrrrfect. thank you very much. job well done. bruce

Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .

I removed screws to rear cardboard cover. I then removed the condensor fan by unscrewing the nut off the shaft. I then removed 4 screws holding the fan motor. I then replaced the motor and reversed the process.

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Remove and clean out everything from the freezer and unplug the refrigerator. Take out the wire shelf in the freezer. (The fan motor is behind the back wall of the freezer, SO YOU CAN KEEP THE REFRIGERATOR CLOSED). Pop off the little cover on the center of the plastic shroud. Remove the little screw and carefully remove the plastic shroud ... Read more . Remove the plastic cover for the optional ice maker on the upper left corner of the back wall. Take out the two screws in the upper corners on the back wall of the freezer and the last two screws holding the fan motor. The fan motor won't drop, remove the back wall and you will see two screws holding the motor mount. Remover those two screws, and pop the bracket out and separate.Take the two rubber motor mounts off the ends of the old motor and install them on the new motor. (Now you will have to cut the wires off the old motor), unplug the little wire harness, strip the ends and crimp on wire connectors to plug them onto your new motor. Its an AC motor so it shouldn't matter which hot goes on which of the two terminals. JUST MAKE SURE THE GROUND IS CORRECT! (After reinstalling the motor, plug in the refrigerator, turn it on before installing the shroud and make sure the fan is blowing outward. If all is correct, turn the refrigerator off, unplug and finish assembling the freezer. I found the new motor seems to run more efficiently than the old one.

I looked up the refrigerator on the internet and found this website. I got the diagram of the parts of the icemaker and found that the valve must be defective because no water was coming up to the icemaker.
I ordered the part which came the next day. Took out the screws, conected the water line to the new part. moved the electrical ... Read more connection to the new part and we had ice. Saved a lot of money that the plumber would have cost.

The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the c ... Read more onnector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.

Shut off water supply, removed old valve (two screws, 1/4' nut driver), disconnect electrical plug, remove water lines (adjustable wrench). Cut fitting off tube to ice-maker (new unit has a push-to-connect fitting). Replace water lines and electrical connector. Mount valve back on cabinet. Turn water back on.

The wiring harness was a straightfoward plug in replacement after depressing the securing tabs, and did provide power to the icemaker. However, the icemaker would continually cycle, with the mold heater on at all times. I suspect this is what caused the thermal fuse to blow in the first place. Rather than spend more time replacing individ ... Read more ual components, I eneded up replacing the full ice maker assy. The new ice maker works properly.

I turned the light bulb into the socket

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

Unplug, then remove shelving and rear panel. Remove fan motor, swap wired and install new motor. Reinstall in reverse order. Plug back in and verify the fan is running. Easy and nothing special. Only thing I would caution is they use a foam runner to the refrigerator that may be iced up. Carefully clean the ice out before reinstalling eve ... Read more rything. A follow up note. If the fan has not been running, Ice will build up in the drain tube. When you start up the refrigerator, you will see water dripping into the lower shelf. This is easy to fix. Unplug refrigerator and disassemble to where you can see the coils. There will be ice on the bottom covering the drain line hole. You will need to carefully chip away the ice, then use a hair dryer to melt the ice. Carefully use a pointed tool to push in the drain tube until the water drains. Go slow and be patient. Heat is your friend when doing this.

Removed the two screws that hold flaping door. Removed the single screw that covers the connecting wires. Disconnected the wiring plug. I wiggled out the ice maker. Took off the motor cover. Swapped out one motor for the other. Reinstalled the icemaker in the resverse order of removal. Note the wiring plug in the freeze is very fro ... Read more m. It makine s the reconnection differcult.