106726 Kenmore - Instructions

I took the old one out and put the new one in. EASY!

unpluged unit, removed 2 panel screws, removed 4 fan screws, disconnected wires, reassembled

unplugged refrig.
removed screws on back panel of freezer compartment

removed fan motor cover

removed fan

broke ends off support bracket in accordance with directions

had to pull more of old ground wire out of back of refrigerator to get it to reach ground clip on new fan

plugge ... Read more d all 3 wires into fan motor

replaced covers

every thing works fine now.

part was delivered quite promptly

refrigerator was over 30 years old and a sears model but mfg by whirlpool

First I removed the back cover then removed 3 nuts holding the motor. Next I removed the two wires. Next I attached new connectors to the wires and installed the new motor and everything worked perfect!

Service and shipping were fantastic! I would definitely use Partselect again!

I have replaced the circuit board, the condenser fan motor but the unit still will not feeze correctly. The bottom of the unit freezes but just barely cools the rest of the freezer and ice box. Have you got any other advice that might help. This is a side by side unit. What else could be the problem. It seems that the fan is not workin ... Read more g correctly or it is stuck in defrost mode. The coils where the fan is seem to be icing up but it will not let the fan work. THanks for your help, David Wilson

Went on line ,ordered part on Friday afternoon ,Fedex was at my house Saturday Morning,,THIS SERVICE IS GREAT ,,THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR BEING SO FAST

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Second time in about two months, and it's never done it before in the 19+years we've had it.
Several good YouTube videos on replacing the "Heat Probe", though generally for newer models. You can probably figure it out, though.
Unplug the 'fridge
1. empty the freezer
2. take out the shelf and ice maker (three screws w/ ... Read more 1/4" nut driver)
3. remove the "floor" of the freezer (two screws w/ 1/4" nut driver)
4. remove the back of the freezer (two screws w/ 1/4" nut drive)
You will see ice buildup in the drip tray and in the drain hole. That's the problem.
This is probably a ton of ice under the freezer floor. I used a thin metal spatula to pry up the sheets of ice, up to the metal drip tray.
I used a heat gun (a hair dryer would probably work) to thaw the ice around the drip try and pry it out. Don't over heat anything. Take your time. Don't melt anything other than the ice and do that slowly.
Be VERY careful around the fins and refrigeration tubes.
It took about an hour to get all the ice out except for the iced up drain hole.
Boiled some water and carefully poured it on the ice in the hole. Blot out the melted ice with a sponge or paper towel. Do this over and over until the ice is about a half inch below the lip, still plugging hole.
Use a turkey baster or a funnel with a piece of hose and keep pouring hot water into the drain hole. The baster is good because you can not only add the water, you can suck out the melt water.
Keep doing this until you start hearing water draining into the drip tray underneath the 'fridge. The drain hole is now clear.
Wrap the heat probe around the black tube under the refrigeration coils and fins and insert the tab into the hole.
Crimp the heat probe tightly around the black tube and attach it tightly with the screw.
NOTE: My refrigerated did not come of a heat probe originally and the kit did NOT come with an attachment screw, so I had to improvise. If you are replacing you probe, save the screw.
Reassemble the freezer in reverse order of disassembly. Hooking the ice maker back up is a royal PITA. And make sure you attach the little grounding wire to the tab on the back panel before you attach the panel.
Plug the refrigerator back in. The ice maker won't work until the freezer is cold enough to make ice again. That will take several hours.

The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this tim ... Read more e, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causin ... Read more g the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

First, I removed the two thermostat knobs, then the snap-on plastic cover. Then, I removed the 4 screws holding the housing for the timer, thermostats, etc., and dropped it down enough to remove the timer and the wiring harness going into it. Installing the new one was the same process, in reverse. Quite simple!

Removed the old timer from the housing. The replacement came with good instructions. I followed the instructions corresponding to the color wires in my unit. The first time it was installed, the fridge did not come on and the temperature rose after a couple hours. Looked at the part and realized the defrost cycle must have kicked in. Need ... Read more ed to slightly turn the gray slotted part to initiate the timer so it would stop the defrost and start the fridge. That did it! It must have advanced the timer so it could accumulate run time. Whole repair saved us $3000 in a new fridge.

Replaced refrigerator cooling control. No luck. Replaced freezer cooling control. No luck. Coils were icing up. Unplugged frig and allowed coils to defrost. After more poking around, found that condenser fan was not spinning. Touch it and it'd start. That was definitely in need of replacement. Replacement was easy. Refrigerator is ... Read more now running as it should.

Removed the 3 screws in the back of the freezer, pulled back the metal back plate on the freezer. Removed 4 nuts on the plastic housing that holds the fan and pulled the housing down. Disconnected the wires, unscrewed the 2 screws holding the fan to the housing. Replaced old fan motor with new fan motor onto housing just as it was befo ... Read more re. Reconnected the wires. And tested the motor. Worked great. Re-assembled everything as it was and it was done.

First defrosted it to makes sure all Air flow was opened. Tested the Defroster heater with omh meter, it was OK. Found the location of the defrost timer on the online diagrams. Used nut driver to remove cover.
Replaced timer. The hardest part was decieding how to wire it up, tis was a universal kit and depending on how it was wired ... Read more as to how often the defrost ran. The firt choice was every 8 hours. Since this was going to be opened often, I picked that one.
Plugged it with in 24 hrs freezer wall mesured -5 and the fridge was at 30, so had to warm it up a bit.
Now all complaints gone, Ice making has been doing better also.