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1067210 Kenmore - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1067210
91 - 105 of 1154

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Ice getting stuck, and water flowing over everything
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Randal from Wakefield, RI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The on-line video and the hard-copy instructions with the replacement part made it very easy. Just loosened the 2 upper screws and took out the bottom one. Eased the ice maker out a bit and disconnected the plug at the back (power was off). Checked the replacement part had exactly the same wiring harness - it did. Fitted the bail arm from the old one. So simply did the same process in reverse. So 15-20 minutes after I started, the job was compelete. It takes a while for ice to start coming, but it did, and after 24 hours I threw out the ice and started again to make sure the ice came from fresh water.
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Ice maker leaked into ice reservoir
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • joe from hilliard, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.

Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/h eater. Replace with new. Reassemble.
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35 year old water tube became brittle and cracked; leaking water
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Melvin from OPELIKA, AL
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unscrewed clamp holding water tube to refrigerator ice maker. Pulled water tube from ice maker and water valve inlet. Cut the new tubing to the exact same length and inserted one end to the water valve inlet and the other end to the ice maker then screwed clamp holding water tube back to the refrigerator ice maker.
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Broken Piece
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • anthony from georgetown, IL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .
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fan making bad bearing noise
8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bruce from Malvern, OH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
r&r fan blade and motor. with the parts you supplied it was easy. the parts were perrrrfect. thank you very much. job well done. bruce
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defrost pan overflowing
15 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rudolf from Lovington, NM
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed screws to rear cardboard cover. I then removed the condensor fan by unscrewing the nut off the shaft. I then removed 4 screws holding the fan motor. I then replaced the motor and reversed the process.
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light not working in fridge
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from East Meadow, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!
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The old motor has built in wire harness. The new motor has connectors on it.
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leo from EAGLE, WI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove and clean out everything from the freezer and unplug the refrigerator. Take out the wire shelf in the freezer. (The fan motor is behind the back wall of the freezer, SO YOU CAN KEEP THE REFRIGERATOR CLOSED). Pop off the little cover on the center of the plastic shroud. Remove the little screw and carefully remove the plastic shroud . Remove the plastic cover for the optional ice maker on the upper left corner of the back wall. Take out the two screws in the upper corners on the back wall of the freezer and the last two screws holding the fan motor. The fan motor won't drop, remove the back wall and you will see two screws holding the motor mount. Remover those two screws, and pop the bracket out and separate.Take the two rubber motor mounts off the ends of the old motor and install them on the new motor. (Now you will have to cut the wires off the old motor), unplug the little wire harness, strip the ends and crimp on wire connectors to plug them onto your new motor. Its an AC motor so it shouldn't matter which hot goes on which of the two terminals. JUST MAKE SURE THE GROUND IS CORRECT! (After reinstalling the motor, plug in the refrigerator, turn it on before installing the shroud and make sure the fan is blowing outward. If all is correct, turn the refrigerator off, unplug and finish assembling the freezer. I found the new motor seems to run more efficiently than the old one.
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Black flecks in ice
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anthony from Billings, MT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the c onnector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.
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Running edges of meat drawer were cracked and broken from the door closing with the drawer open.
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Rockwall, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I slid out the old one and threw it away and slid in the new one. 10 second repair. The kind I like.
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no power to the ice maker
11 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Indianapolis, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
The wiring harness was a straightfoward plug in replacement after depressing the securing tabs, and did provide power to the icemaker. However, the icemaker would continually cycle, with the mold heater on at all times. I suspect this is what caused the thermal fuse to blow in the first place. Rather than spend more time replacing individ ual components, I eneded up replacing the full ice maker assy. The new ice maker works properly.
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Water inlet valve not working
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Theo from Layton, UT
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Followed instructions for testing and replacement on You Tube video.
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Water dispensed, but no ice.
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • NANCY from VALLEY VIEW, OH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
We have a side-by-side and the tutorial was different than what we have. Had trouble getting cover off, but finally repaired and WE HAVE ICE! Also took longer than expected.
Saved a lot!
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Ice maker stopped working after less than six months
8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Claude from Oakdale, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After checking all connections I determined the ice maker which had been replaced on 01/2007 stopped making ice. I had serviceman from a local company return and check the ice maker. He rinsed the ice maker under warm water, melting the ice build-up and re-installed the ice maker. I watched him do the re-installation, then waited for two days to see if the ice maker was functioning. Since the ice maker wasn't working, I called the serviceman, who in turn informed me that the replacement ice maker had increased in price from $170.00 to $274.00. That is when I contacted your web site, ordered the replacement ice maker.
I was totally amazed and pleased by the fast,
easy, and efficient way my order was processed and the ice maker was delivered.
I followed the instructions included with the ice maker, and installed the replacement ice maker in about 20 minutes. I can't thank you enough for the great service. I only wish I had checked my computer after the first ice maker broke down and found your web site.
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Icemaker Quit Making Ice
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JOSEPH from LINDENHURST, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the two screws that hold flaping door. Removed the single screw that covers the connecting wires. Disconnected the wiring plug. I wiggled out the ice maker. Took off the motor cover. Swapped out one motor for the other. Reinstalled the icemaker in the resverse order of removal. Note the wiring plug in the freeze is very fro m. It makine s the reconnection differcult.
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All Instructions for the 1067210
91 - 105 of 1154