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106692 Kenmore - Instructions

All Instructions for the 106692
76 - 90 of 1129

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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water was leaking down from freezer section to bottom part of unit
13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eric from miami, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First, unplugged the refrigerator. Then removed bottom plastic liner of the freezer, 2 screws with 5/16 nut driver. At this point the ice maker had to be removed 3 screws, two on the upper part and the other under the ice maker. Now the back wall of the freezer section was removed by unscrewing 2 screws with the nut driver. This gave me a ccess to remove the defective clip-on Bimetal defrost thermostat. It was located in the upper right corner on the back wall of the freezer. Cut off the 2 wires from the bad part( one pink the other brown)then used wire nut to replace with the new part and matched wires from freezer to new part( pink to pink and brown to brown) and clipped the part in one section of the coil. ( where the bad part was located) Put all back in place. And so far no more water leak inside the fridge.
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Scratches in Surface
83 of 227 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michelle from Richardson, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
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Noise coming from defrost timer
12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Pottstown, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
First I unplugged appliance then I remove two screws from the thermostat/light cover. I then remove two defrost timer mounting screws and all electrical connectors. Then utilizing instructions recieved with new defrost timer I ascertained which wires should go where. When I was sure I had the wires ready I connected them to the others in the appliance and plugged the appliance in to ensure that the noise was no longer heard and made sure timer was working. Everything seemed fine so I unplugged appliance and secured two defrost timer mounting screws and thermostat/light cover mounting screws and that was that.
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My refrigerator ran constantly and never got cold!
11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brandon from Fort Wayne, IN
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
On a whim I looked into what it would take to fix my garage older 2nd fridge. I was thinking I needed a new seal, but when I checked the website there was a great troubleshooter. I would have never guessed that the defrost timer was what would cause it not to ever get cold. After a fairly simple repair the freezer is colder than ever a nd I actually had to turn it down. The only complication was the fridge was stuck in a defrost cycle so I had to reset the timer to get the refrigerator running. Thanks so much for a super helpful site for a do-it-yourselfer like me.
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would not cycle
12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Maxine from Birmingham, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
removed the defrost timer and replaced with new unit now i have a refrigerator again
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No water to the ice maker
11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ron from Ferndale, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
At age 65 I have never attempted to repair a refrigerator, until now. It took longer than needed because I did not read these articles carefully. Please note that when you open the door and the light blinks twice, waits a second and blinks again, the optics are working fine. I ordered an emitter and receiver when I didn't need to. I s ent it back, the money was refunded, and ordered the ice maker. I replaced the old icemaker by removing three screws and slipping it out of its holder.

Here is how I found out I needed the new ice maker. I took the supply line apart that runs down the back of the refrigerator. I blew through it without any trouble. This told me that the line was not frozen within the refrigerator. I put the supply line back together, and jumped the solenoid that was connected to the supply line at the bottom right of the refrigerator. My model is the side by side, so it has two solenoids. The solenoid that runs the water to the dispenser in the door was always running, so I knew if there was a problem it would be with the ice maker solenoid. So, how did I jump the solenoid. Kids, don't try this at home. I disconnected the wiring harness to the solenoid by pulling it straight out. Then I took the female end of an extension chord and placed a twelve two electrical wire with the ends stripped into the positive and negative slots. I then jumped the solenoid. Water ran to the ice maker, but there still wasn't any ice made. Since the optics and the solenoid were working it seemed to me that the ice maker wasn't doing it's part. There are easier ways to check the solenoid in this forum, but this worked for me. I saved a lot of money and the parts got here quickly.
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Replaced Freezer Door and Refrigerator Door Gaskets
11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robin from VENICE, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
!st removed the doors from the unit, then laid them on the floor. Next, on a long side of the door, cut through the gasket so I could pull it off the door in one piece without separating the door liner from the outer door. Then, starting at a corner, started pushing the stiff black part of the replacement gasket between the liner and oute r door, making sure to push it completely under as I went. Used a thick flat bladed screwdriver to carefully help push the final corner section in. Repeated on both doors, rehung, plugged in and done!
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condenser fan stopped working
10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steven from Brigham City, UT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
1. Removed the cardboard cover.
2. Removed the terminal block and unplugged the old motor.
3. Removed three screws that held old motor to the bracket.
4. Removed the fan blade from the old motor.
5. Installed the fan blade (after cleaning) to the new motor.
6. Crimped on new wire terminals onto the leads on the new motor.
7. Installed the new motor using the fasteners provided.
8. Plugged the new motor wires onto the proper terminals in the terminal block.
9. remounted the terminal block.
10. reinstalled the cardboard cover.
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socket melted with bulb in it.
12 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • martin l. from JACKSONVILLE,, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
plastic warped in ,spaced out and, the socket snapped back in place.
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Condenser fan motor seized
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Benjamin from Daytona Beach, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
While investigating a water leak I discovered the condenser fan seized. I removed the fan to prevent a fire and ordered the part. The hardest part was identifying the correct fan. That took longer than the installation.
I cut the wires and spliced in the new motor. It rotated correctly and I replaced the crill.
Done
Tot al time of ice maker water leak repair and fan replacement about 1 hour.
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Ice maker stopped working
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Martin from DESOTO, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Our ice maker had been overfilling and causing a big block of ice in the bin for some time, but it finally stopped working completely. In trying to determine the problem, I read the comments on the PartSelect website from other customers and thought I needed either a new valve or a new ice maker. I replaced both because when I took the old ice maker out, it had a lot of mineral deposits in it and looked very unappetizing. The videos on how to replace the valve and ice maker were very helpful. Other customers comments on replacing the valve were also great. The only thing I would add is that after getting the parts installed and the water line and electricity reconnected, it takes an hour or so for the ice maker to to fill. I suppose there is a temperature sensor that won't fill it until gets down to a certain point. I am very pleased with the outcome of this project on our 28 year old refrigerator.
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I cracked mine :D
11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lisa from Fort Myers, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Slid right in...exceptionally easy :)
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Broken parts in refrigerator
11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Harald from Cape Coral, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Replaced with new parts
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There was no light on in refrig area
12 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lori from Chuluota, FL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.
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Freezer Cooling Problems - would get too warm then too cold. Condenser fan would run sometime but not always
10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JAMES from Middleboro, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplug
Remove entire back panel (both chipboard and metal fan grill)
Unscrew both fan mount plate screws - fan won't be able to come out because it is still plugged in
When looking at back of fridge, locate a small plastic box to the immediate left of the condenser. It's a circuit block. Release the metal spring clip hold ing the plastic cover in place, and trace the fan wire connections back to the fan. Make a note of which wire is connected to which terminal (1 of the fan wires has white lettering and 1 is just black)
Unplug both fan wire connects from circuit block to release the fan power cable.
Remove the fan mounting plate
Release fan blade clip by pressing fan against motor and unscrewing and remove fan blades
Unscrew motor from brackets - note alignment of motor on brackets
Mount new motor on brackets. Leave plug wire disconnected (replacement motor has a harnessed plug wire)
Connect new plug wire to the circuit block keeping wires connected to the proper terminals
Snake new plug wire behind condenser like the old wire was and run through cable bracket to the back right of the condenser
Plug wire harness into motor and re-mount fan mount plate
Reattach fan blade and secure using blade mount kit
Replace back panels
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All Instructions for the 106692
76 - 90 of 1129