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1066399 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1066399
1 - 15 of 367

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My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
439 of 554 people found this instruction helpful.
  • garth from forest lake, MN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck le t's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
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Seven year old condenser fan was making noise when it was running.
199 of 211 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Josue from Jacksonville, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The process to repair was very simple, I removed the back of the refrigerator to expose the motor area. I then removed three screws that held the condenser motor in place. once it was loose I detactched the electrical harness and removed the old motor. I then placed the new motor in place and secured it with the screws and reattached the new electrical harness that came with the new part. Once completed I reviewed it to make sure I didn't miss anything. I then replaced the cover over the motor area and enjoyed my success in repairing my own appliance with no added cost for labor, which would have been expensive I'm sure. The part purchased came with clear and consice instructions very easy to follow.
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Fridge was warm. No air circulating at all. Food was spoiling Fridge was just over 1 year old
107 of 122 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from Smock, PA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First I removed the two screws that secure the guard in bottom back of the freezer and removed it . Next I removed the two screws that secure the guard on the back wall of the freezer and removed it. There are three wires connected to the motor, I unplugged those and removed the two screws that secure the motor and removed it. I swapped t he grommets, blade and support bracket from the old motor. I put it back together in reverse steps and its working great. My mother-in-law can,t stop thanking me ! I saved her at least $400 to buy a new fridge. Thank You, Brian Miner
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Lights inside refrigerator not working
136 of 255 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Clint from Rayville, MO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
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water dripping inside fridge due to drain hole being frozen over wiith ice.
65 of 74 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Edwin from Maplewood, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
first I diagnosed the problem with the whirlpool do-it-yourself repair manual, which was very easy to understand. as per the repair manual, "this part located on the evaporator or the back of the liner is used during the defrost cycle. This bimetal senses the temperature from the evaporator. When the temperature reaches 50-70 degrees (F) the defrost bimetal turnd the defrost heater off. " then I emptied the freezer. removed the the back panel to expose the evaporator. I looked for the bimetal defrost thermostat clipped on the evaporator. tested the bi-metal defrost thermostat, as per the manual, " the ohmmeter should show ZERO resistance (continuity). if not, the bimetal is bad and needs replacing." NOTE: the bimetal must be cold. it is also tested with the bimetal warm/hot, by running it under hot water. i used a styrofoam cup with hot water & dipped the bimetal in. as per the manual, " the ohmmeter should show an open circuit. if not, the bimetal is bad and needs replacing. then got online found partselect.com. ordered the part, recieved it in less than 2 days. within minutes after recieving the part, I removed the bimetal defrost thermostat and spliced in the new one. thanks to partselect.com my fridge is back up and running properly again. prior to installing the new bimetal, i tested it, as descibed above, you can hear & feel the bimetal open/close when it gets hot/cold.
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Missing center track for crisper drawers
54 of 57 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JR from Portland, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Remove the glass shelf and the support frame. Bend the front clip on the track back far enough to fit into slot on frame. Insert the back end of the track into the opening at the back of the frame. Press the front end of the track into the retainer slot in the frame. Reinstall the frame and glass shelf. Done.
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Light Would Not Go On In The Refrigerator
62 of 82 people found this instruction helpful.
  • DANIEL from MINNEAPOLIS, MN
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the old lightbulb from the socket and replaced it with a new one to confirm that the bulb was not the problem. I then pryed the socket out with a flat-head screwdriver. I could tell that the socket was anchored in its hole with clips so it was relatively easy to pry it out. Once the socket was out, I disconnected the le ad wires and ordered a replacement socket kit from Partselect. When the new one arrived, I reconnected the lead wires to it, snapped it back into its hole, screwed in a new lightbulb, and presto!! The light was back on with no further problem. Thank you, Partselect!! A $15.00 part saved me what probably would have been at least a $100. service call and heaven knows what the technician would have told me I needed!!!
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Fridge made noise and the center post was HOT!
54 of 60 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Jefferson City, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
We have a side-by-side fridge/freezer and we experienced a hot center post (where doors come together) and the fridge made loud noise. Also, the (old) fan motor would start, but then quit, so our issue was the motor.

For me the repair was very easy, but for an unexperienced person it may prove to be difficult. If you must o rder a motor/fan, do NOT order the metal fan as a plastic fan comes with the motor. What's strange is the new motor is different than the old one, but it still mounted without any required modifications. I did NOT use the wire harness that came with the motor either as it was different too, but my old one was still good.

Check all of your parts as my fan had a cracked blade, but I used "superglue" and it's fine now.

Fridge stays cold and my wife had to lower the temperature in the fridge as she was blasted by the cold!
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took out the bottom glass shelf to clean and it just exploded on me when I went to dry it.
46 of 51 people found this instruction helpful.
  • suzanne from cheektowaga, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Glass sheet came in perfect condition, just put back in refrigerator and has been fine ever since. Not the first time I had ever taken out to clean, but it will be the last. From now on, I clean it in the refrigerator.
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old condenser fan motor shaft was loose and it made the spinning fan blades shake and cause noise
40 of 44 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Christopher from Snow Camp, NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
The procedure was straightforward. I removed the cardboard backing on the lower back of the refrigerator to expose the fan unit. I then undid the electrical harness at the fan. I then removed the three screws securing the fan motor to the metal bracket. This is the hardest part in that I had to reach through and get to the screws with my small tools. I then removed the old motor and blades and placed the new motor and blades. Again, a bit tricky trying to get the three screws mounted into the bracket...small tools and hands helps. After that I used the electrical harness supplied with the kit to plug into the new motor and I was done.
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Freezer was cold, refrigerator was not.
33 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Oak Creek, WI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
After noticing my freezer was ice cold and the refrigerator was luke warm, I figured there was an airflow problem due to either a fan that failed or the evaporator coil iced over. Just by opening the freezer door I could hear the fan blowing so it had to be the evap coil. Sure enough after removing a couple screws and the back panel I sa w the ice. I then unplugged the frige to let it thaw overnight. In the morning I inspected the coil and luckily noticed right away that this little piece didn't look right. The top of the bi-metal thermostat was raised up. Almost like it popped. I read the other reviews on this website reffering to using an ohm meter to see if it held continuity. Well it didn't because the piece really did "pop". The wire was severed. So the ohm reader read open even if the piece was warm. I ordered the part and in days was able to replace the part. NOTE TO BUYER. It did not come with electrical connecting nuts or whatever they are called. So you'll have to go to the hardware store and pick some up for about $2. Frige works fine now. Thanks parts select.
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Light Switch broke
48 of 78 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James Richard from St. Cloud, MN
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.
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Water was dripping from the freezer into the non-frozen area, and the non-frozen area was not cooling
34 of 43 people found this instruction helpful.
  • A. M. from Bay Minette, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I first disconnected the power cord and then removed all the panels and disconnected the Defrost Heater at the quick-disconnect, and cut the wires on the Defrost Themostat. (The Defrost Thermostat had been replaced about 10 years ago when the Defrost Heater was replaced.) One of the reasons it took longer than 15 minutes was because ther e was a buildup of ice in the freezer section. I then soldered the wires and covered them with a plastic sleeve and wrapped them in electrical tape. After replacing all the panels and re-connecting the power cord, I restarted the refrigerator. After one week, there is no water dripping from the freezer and everything is working properly. Your diagnosis of the problem was exactly right. Thanks for the info.
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Evaporator Motor burned out
30 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Max from Waco, TX
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Very pleased with the delivery time. Was able to repair the refrigerator before the beer got hot. Replacement was easy.
Removed blower housing. Replaced motor. Put blower housing back in place.
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The door gasket had worn out and the door wouldn't shut properly
30 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jo from Hudson, NH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
We took the edge out of the slot and pulled the old one off then put the new one on. Once we got the plastic edge started into the slot it was a breeze. Only took about 5 minutes. We were very pleased with the results.
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All Instructions for the 1066399
1 - 15 of 367