1065325 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions
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No ice
567 of 688 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Daniel from Suwanee, GA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
removed flap door in front of icemaker...removed 3 screws with bolt heads...removed one additional screw with bolt head and ice unit slid out. I removed motor unit (pops out no screws). Replaced and had ice within 3 hours.
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Front Door Ice Wouldn't Work And Air Going Into Freezer
498 of 612 people
found this instruction helpful.
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BILL from BATESVILLE, MS
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Thanks to the pictorial diagram, I was able to order correct parts. It was just a matter of removal of broken parts and replacing them. Ice maker now working and air is no longer getting into freezer which was freezing up ice maker. Thanks for timely delivery, now I am able to use ice dispenser, which I haven't used for long time. Tha
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nks
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track of the pan become broken
426 of 450 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Darrell from Cedar Bluff, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Buy a new crisper pan,slide out old one ,slide in new one
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Refigerator door was not closing all the way if not pushed shut.
394 of 419 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Norbert from Sugar Land, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove the top hinge cover. Removed the top hinge support. Lifted the door from the bottom support. Old door cams were worn completly flat. Replaced the lower door cam and closing cam use a little vasalene for lubricant on the cam surfaces. Placed the door back on the lower hinge support. Replaced the top hinge support. Door is cl
... Read more
osing great now.
Thanks for the quick part deliver.
Thanks for the quick part deliver.
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My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
439 of 554 people
found this instruction helpful.
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garth from forest lake, MN
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck le
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t's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
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Drawer guides broken
318 of 414 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Paula from Chesterfield, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Simply pulled out old drawer and replaced with new one. This broken drawer really bothered my wife so this simple repair earned me alot of points at home. Lord knows i can use all the extra points i can get. Thanks for the quick shipment of the part. 2 days from time of call to part on my door step. Thanks again
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Both freezer and refrigerator stopped cooling
224 of 281 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Laune from Front Worth, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Compressor Start Divice kit, I took off back lower panel with the 1/4 inch nut driver, on the compressor their was a wire hook that held the starter in place used my plyers to unhook, pulled the unit off plug the new unit in reappled the clip it was so easy I had to exame it severl to time to make sure that was all their was to it. put th
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e cover back on and turn the refrigerator on and it has work great, I did not install the Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat it was not needed.
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Seven year old condenser fan was making noise when it was running.
199 of 211 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Josue from Jacksonville, NC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
The process to repair was very simple, I removed the back of the refrigerator to expose the motor area. I then removed three screws that held the condenser motor in place. once it was loose I detactched the electrical harness and removed the old motor. I then placed the new motor in place and secured it with the screws and reattached the
... Read more
new electrical harness that came with the new part. Once completed I reviewed it to make sure I didn't miss anything. I then replaced the cover over the motor area and enjoyed my success in repairing my own appliance with no added cost for labor, which would have been expensive I'm sure. The part purchased came with clear and consice instructions very easy to follow.
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Ice Maker would not stop making ice.
194 of 222 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Vince from El Cajon, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
First, I tested the ice maker "switch" that actually just covers the beam that regulates the ice maker. In the "off" position, it still made ice. Then, I removed the three screws on the cover over the transmitter and disconnected the circuit board at the wire connector. It stopped. After ordering and receiving the new transmitter and rece
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iver boards, I replaced both boards. They are located on either side of the freezer compartment under panels held in place by three screws. Probably saved 150 to 200 bucks.
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Clicking from underneath the fridge, and compressor engaging only intermittently
198 of 239 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Manvel, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
I diagnosed the problem as a bad relay. I detached the two sets of wires leading to the relay and compressor, then pulled the relay off the compressor. It rattled and small bits of detritus fell out from inside of the relay. The new relay came the next day. It did not rattle. It was identical and I simply did the reverse to reinstall.
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External Ice Guide Broke a Tooth and Fell Off
170 of 186 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tracy from Jacksonville, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
We waited two years to do this because we didn't want to hassle with a repair man to come out and charge us arm+leg for something so simple. Finally we searched and found the part on line. It came two days FASTER than promised. Kudos to Part Select.
Snapping it on was a breeze, although you do have to apply more pressure than feels ... Read more comfortable with plastic clips. We can know get ice out of the external door system again.
Snapping it on was a breeze, although you do have to apply more pressure than feels ... Read more comfortable with plastic clips. We can know get ice out of the external door system again.
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
159 of 188 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Cathy from Winter Park, FL
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
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The Water Dispensor Tubing Had Become Brittle And Broke .
209 of 347 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Conrad from Tucson, AZ
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed the face plate. Removed a few screws and unpluged a few electrical connectors and pulled apart. Removed the holding bracket and clear tubing from door. Cut new tubing at an angle to push through conduit. Reinstalled new bracket and re-installed electrical connectors. Snapped face trim on and bleed air out of system. . W
... Read more
ater ran great.
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Refrigerator Door quit closing on it's own......
140 of 153 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
T.w. from Batesville, AR
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Socket set
Door quit closing on it's own......
** Order the following from www.partselect.com
Lower Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS323495
Upper Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS327641
1. 1/4 drive socket and standard socket
2. On top of door .... remove black plastic bracket ... Read more cover on top of hinge
3. Have someone hold the frige door in place
4. On top of door .... remove 3 screws that hold the hinge onto the frige..... at this time, door will be loose
5. Lift door up and off the bottom hinge.
6. sit door on the ground. Tilt door at an angle for access to the "cam"
7. On frige, at the bottom, use socket to remove one screw that holds the old "bottom" cam in place..... then replace with new one.
8. While door is tilted, use socket to remove one screw that holds the "top" cam in place.
9. You will need to gently pull this cam out.... shouldn't take too much effort though.
10. Replace with new cam.
11. put door back on hinge
12. At top of frige, reinstall 3 screws
13. Reinstall plastic cover.
14. Voila, you're done
Thanks PartSelect !
** Order the following from www.partselect.com
Lower Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS323495
Upper Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS327641
1. 1/4 drive socket and standard socket
2. On top of door .... remove black plastic bracket ... Read more cover on top of hinge
3. Have someone hold the frige door in place
4. On top of door .... remove 3 screws that hold the hinge onto the frige..... at this time, door will be loose
5. Lift door up and off the bottom hinge.
6. sit door on the ground. Tilt door at an angle for access to the "cam"
7. On frige, at the bottom, use socket to remove one screw that holds the old "bottom" cam in place..... then replace with new one.
8. While door is tilted, use socket to remove one screw that holds the "top" cam in place.
9. You will need to gently pull this cam out.... shouldn't take too much effort though.
10. Replace with new cam.
11. put door back on hinge
12. At top of frige, reinstall 3 screws
13. Reinstall plastic cover.
14. Voila, you're done
Thanks PartSelect !
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Ice Maker stopped working
135 of 154 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Robert from Port Washington, NY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
With socket wrench un-screwed the 3 screws and pulled out the ice maker assembly.
Pulled off white plastic end-cap and noticed the plastic gear disk had snapped off (sub part # R0167202)
However, it is all-one-part of the motor assembly unit # w10190935 (part # PS2341896) which must be ordered as a complete part.
... Read more />
Unscrewed the motor assembly (3 screws) with phillips head screw driver.
Screwed in the new unit.
Placed ice maker back into location and tightend the bacing srews.
1 hour later ice was falling!
Pulled off white plastic end-cap and noticed the plastic gear disk had snapped off (sub part # R0167202)
However, it is all-one-part of the motor assembly unit # w10190935 (part # PS2341896) which must be ordered as a complete part.
... Read more />
Unscrewed the motor assembly (3 screws) with phillips head screw driver.
Screwed in the new unit.
Placed ice maker back into location and tightend the bacing srews.
1 hour later ice was falling!
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