1065175 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Checked a video on YouTube and found questions and answers to this concern.. All lead to the compressor capacitor. Entered part # on your Website. Capacitor come right up and also suggested a Start Device. I ordered both parts as I was not sure if these parts would fix my problem.
R/R rear panel, found Capacitor and replaced it... ... Read more Compressor came on and refrigerator operated correctly after defrosting Evaporator coils..

Replaced the Ice Bin Auger,I ordered from PartSelect,which had much thicker housing and fins than the original .You remove the clip from the end of the shaft and a nylon nut which is a left hand which is opposite threads from most nuts.Its a good idea to take a picture of how the blades and spacers are ,because if not put back in the same ... Read more direction their will be no crushed ice.It now works better and quiter than when it was new.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

All I did was unscrew the stripped one and screw the new part on. You just have to get it started unscrewing first ( remember that it's backwards! ).

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Disassembled freezer icemaker rear panel and replaced defective part.

Remove the screws and detach the cover. loose the spring and unscrew backwards the plastic nut to release the drum. Un ensemble the blades and release the drum and the deflector replace new parts and ensemble again all the parts.

(1) Ordered PS371704 from PartSelect! Best advice EVER! (2) Unplugged refrigerator (since the water solenoid on the back of the refrigerator is powered to switch ON the water, you NEVER have to turn off the water!) (3) Pull off the refrigerator's bottom grill. (4) With a small saucer under the fittings, unscrew the black and white tube fi ... Read more tting. There is only one nut to remove on the white tubing side. You'll need to undo the compression fitting on the black tubing and slide off the compression nut. You'll need to MAKE SURE you keep these nuts and replace onto the black and white tubing the SAME WAY you took them off. You'll NOT need to use nut drivers as finger tight is the key. Too hard and you'll ruin these plastic nuts. You should get only about 1/8 cup or less of water during this whole exercise. (5) Cut off the old, broken water nozzle. (4) Find a screw of the appropriate size to fit tightly 1/2 way inside the new tubing (this is to ensure your old and new tubing are connected to feed through the door). If screw is not tight within the tubing, wrap part of a plastic (thin) sack around this screw a couple of times and force into the tubing. You'll, of course, then need to use the hacksaw to cut the head off the screw as you'll be forcing the other half of the screw into the old cut tubing (6) Chase the dog out of the kitchen and cajole your wife (significant other) to push the newly joined tubes through the top of the dispenser, through the door and out the bottom as you will be gently PULLING on this old tubing from the bottom until the new tubing pops through the doors bottom. (7) Once this new tubing is out, you will separate the old tubing and, using the nuts in the proper sequence, connect this new tubing to the white tubing. (8) Plug the refrigerator back in and test flow the water. Check to ensure the plastic nuts have no leakage ... button up the bottom grill ... and enjoy the fresh water! PS> Don't forget to praise the wife (significant other) and give the dog a treat for staying out of your face!!

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Ordered the part from parts selection and when it arrived I unpluged my refrigerator and removed the ice bucket to get to the ice maker. I than looked at what needed to do to remove the icemaker. I removed the icemaker and swapped the parts from the old one and reinstalled the new one. If you don't have any mechanical abilities then have ... Read more someone that does to help you out.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thic ... Read more k. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Replaced drum and reassembled unit.

Repair was straightforward.
Loosen two screws, remove and reuse one screw. Side by side freezer made it a cramped work space.