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1065155 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1065155
91 - 105 of 1797

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Refrigerator door fails to close on its own like it is designed to.
23 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jay from Oconomowoc, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
The design of this refrigerator door (it's a side-by-side) is somewhat unbelievable. The door is designed to hold things, yet when you do the weight of the door wears out the lower door cams. The cams are designed to "complete the door closing", i.e. when you gently push on the door the cam mechanism takes over. When the cams wear, the door fails to close. Note to others - you may mistakenly think that the failure of the door to close is related to the seal; it is not.

The repair is quite easy; remove the upper cover, using a not driver (socket), then remove the upper door bracket. Make sure you hold the door or have someone else hold it. After the fasteners are removed gently lift up on the door and remove it from the lower cam assembly. You will see two plastic cam pieces; one on the lower bracket and one on the door. Both need to be changed to effectively "renew" the door closing mechanism. Once the cams are replaced the door can be reassembled to the refrigerator.
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Cracked Evaporation tray was leaking water on kitchen floor
26 of 34 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jerrel from REDDING, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
I emptied refrigerator contents and tilted the refrigerator to the right so as to access the metal panel upon which the evaporation tray was resting. The metal panel is on the left side underneath the refrigerator and the evaporation tray is resting on the panel. I removed 4 screws that were holding the metal panel, pressed down on the panel, slid out the old, cracked plastic evaporation tray, inserted the new plastic evaporation tray, raised the metal panel to its original position, replaced the 4 screws, being careful not to pinched the water line that feeds the ice-maker. VOILA! Un-tilt the frig and re-stock it. It took a day for the temperature to stabilize, due to tilting, I think. New tray $45.
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plastic gear broke off - cubes not getting kicked out
23 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Laurence from Middleton, WI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
removed the three screw holding the broken unit - pulled off the old module.

Before I could install new module I had to loosen some fasteners on ice maker so I could turn shaft to align with new module.

Then push on new unit and three screws. Had tumbling ice in about an hour. My wife thinks I'm a hero. (I am)
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No water to icemaker
27 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
  • McManus from Palm Coast, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Unplug refridge, shut off water supply, remove backing. Remove two screws holding in valve, pull out valve and remove water lines. Have towel to wipe up very little water that leaks out. Unplug electric sources, remove old valve. Take new valve , plug in electric sources, push in water supply until they bottom out, attach bracket to back of refridge. Replace backing, turn on water supply, plug in and bleed lines.
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Freezer would got into defrost mode, and not transition back to cooling mode
23 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Victor from Boise, ID
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
After replacing the defrost timer, I thought that the problem was solved, but it cam back. I finally realized it was the evaporator motor when the motor started turning after I tapped the cover (inside freezer). I knew it should be running because I turned the timer manually with a screwdriver through the defrost segment. Tips to the r eplacement are: 1. unplug the unit. 2. Take out the bulb cover and bulb. 3. remove the tray guides at the bottom of the freezer (2 screws each). Note these screws are longer that the others. 4. remove the shelf supports on the right hand side by sliding them directly upwards. 5. remove the 6 screws from the cover. 7. slide cover up to clear the alignment tabs, then manuver it out. 8. remove fan blades with pliers. 9. disconnect wire terminals from motor. 10. remove support clips and remove motor. 11. remove rubber motor mounts from old motor and put on new motor. 12. install in reverse order. Note extreme caution should be used when removing the cover and working around evaporator coil fins. The fins are extremely delicate (and sharp).
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Refrigerator door failing to close without being pushed shut
25 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from Greeley, CO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Replaced upper cam piece on bottom hinge and also replaced pivot thimble on upper hinge.
No problems, except pivot thimble glued in place. Had to cut up and pull out with pliers. Everything works like new now.
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broken drawer
22 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jason from Farmland, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Put new drawer in fridge.
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There was a pin size hole in the tube.
25 of 34 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Julia from Seguin, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
It was pretty easy to install. The most difficult part was trying to get my hands into the small area to work. I had to use both hands, one to push the release in and the other to pull the tube out. Once I did that, inserting the tube was easy and everything worked perfectly.
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Refrigerator and freezer not cold
23 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lisa from League City, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
I removed the back panel off the fridge and removed the old start relay device by simply unplugging it from the compressor. I had to detatch two wires and a capacitor from the device. The old start relay was definitely bad and you could tell by shaking it. Plugged in the new start relay device, reattached the wires and capacitor and wa s done. Fridge is perfect now! Very simple!
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Fridge side freezing everything.
21 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Murfreesboro, TN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The fridge side would freeze everything regardless of setting. First, unplug the unit. Remove control knobs and pry off the face plate which is snapped on. Remove the four nuts holding the control box to the top of the fridge. Note there is a mettle rod and the thermostat sensor lead inside a clear plastic tube leading from the control bo x to the back left corner of the fridge. Remove their cover (one screw). Under this cover in the back is the vent assembly screw. Remove it. On the freezer side, you also have to remove the light cover (snap on) and the vent cover behind it (one screw). This allows access to remove the vent on the fridge side. Squeeze the tabs on the vent(freezer side) that lock the vent in place and push it through to the fridge side. Now disconnect all wire connectors between the control box and the fridge. They have locking tabs that have to be pried out to release. Remove the two screws holding the thermostat to the control box, and one at a time transfer the wires from the old stat to the new one and mount the new one in place. Snap the old thermostat sensor lead out of the vent assembly, straighten it out and pull the plastic tube off. Put a lubricant on the new stat lead to ease in inserting it into the tube. Do not kink the lead. Re assemble in reverse order, plug up the fridge.
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ice distribution door broke
23 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Winston-Salem, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
At their site was ordering each piece by # and cost and it was adding up to be costly. Went to partselect and was doing the same and up pops the ice door kit. Was a little wary because my original had a heater tape to it. Got the kit and installed not a problem at all. 100% satisfied would recommend to anyone.
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Ice dispenser freezing up, dispenser door not closing completely.
22 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Valencia, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First off, if you have the stainless steel panel inserts on your refrigerator you'll need to remove those to do this repair. I kept looking for the access holes on the underside of the dispenser panel that you're supposed to insert a screwdriver into to pry it off. It wasn't until I removed the freezer door handle, slid the lower stainles s panel insert out, and removed the rail just beneath the dispenser that I could see and access these holes. I also removed the upper stainless panel and rail just above the dispenser to allow enough movement get the dispenser cover off and out. The rest of the repair is pretty straightforward. The old ice door was beaten up and not closing completely, this was letting warm air into the freezer which was melting and re-freezing. This kit fixed the problem.
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The refrigerator would not come back on after defrost.
22 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Neal from Orangevale, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The refrigerator would not come back on after the defrost cycle unless I smacked the housing around the controls. Since it would come back on after stricking the housing I knew it must be a sticking relay. I used the exploded drawings from Parts Select to determine how to disassemble the housing. Once the part arrived I swapped it out in about 10-14 minutes. The drawings made the job simple. Thanks Parts Select!!! -neal
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Ice Magic Plus stopped making ice
25 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George from Hammond, LA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the icemaker from the freezer by removing two horizontal screws holding it to the side wall, and one vertical screw holding the front to a bracket coming off the side wall. Then I used a flat screwdriver to unlock the electrical plug. (After doing this, I realized that this wasn't necessary at all, and this part could have been changed just as easily without removing the icemaker.) On the front, there is a white cover with Ice Maker Plus. Use a flat screwdriver to unlock the tangs and remove the cover. There are three screws in the corners that once removed, will allow the motor assy. to be gently pulled straight out. On the back of the part, you will see many gold lands that the timer touches. I don't think there was anything wrong with my motor. I had two spots where the gold plating was worn off, so I suspect it was not making contact, and the whole process would stop. Slide the new part in place making sure the teeth on the gears line up (not a big deal), and secure with the screws. Install cover and you're done. Mine has been making ice like it was brand new.
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The refrigerator side of the appliance did not cool
22 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
  • juan from Weslaco, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I discovered that the freezer was not defrosting automatically and the condenser coil was freezing up blocking the flow of cold air to the refrigerator side. I first replaced the thermostat thinking that it would be an easy fix but needless to say it didn't work. My indicator that it was not a successful repair was the continuing blinking of the filter change light on the control panel. Ultimately I had to replace the control board assembly to solve the issue.
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All Instructions for the 1065155
91 - 105 of 1797