106513 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Just plugged it in

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Slid weatherstripping off old and slid it on to new, replaced it into fridge

Checked a video on YouTube and found questions and answers to this concern.. All lead to the compressor capacitor. Entered part # on your Website. Capacitor come right up and also suggested a Start Device. I ordered both parts as I was not sure if these parts would fix my problem.
R/R rear panel, found Capacitor and replaced it... ... Read more Compressor came on and refrigerator operated correctly after defrosting Evaporator coils..

We’d had the refrigerator repaired a year ago by the service department of our local appliance store. Turns out the service tech somehow used the wrong screw when replacing the door cam, causing it to rub on the cams and causing premature wear. After watching the provided repair video, it took about 10 minutes to remove the door, replace ... Read more the cams and reinstall the door. Saved well over $100 and had the job done right this time.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Installed ice machine components using kit and included instructions. Easy! Ran a copper line from under sink valve to back of refrigerator under the floor. Drilled two holes to run copper line. Plumber turned water off and replaced single valve with a double valve (one line to faucet and the other for the copper line). Installed shut of ... Read more f valve and filter at the other end of copper line. Then stainless hose to refrigerator. Everything went smooth. Double check the factory installed plastic line from the electric valve to the inlet for your freezer. Mine was barely inserted and leaked. I pushed it in all the way and it is fine now... Ice maker works really well! Wish I had done this sooner!

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thic ... Read more k. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Remove the ice bucket and check that the auger that turns in the ice bucket is free to turn. Cover the open freezer with cardboard or whatever to retain most of the freezer temperature. Remove the holder that supports the top of the motor shaft. Check the splines on the upper part of the motor shaft and also check the seal under the holde ... Read more r. Open the access the door to the motor, remove wiring connector and unbolt the motor. Check the lower splines on motor shaft for condition, clean the shaft and apply new grease to the splines. Before installing, connect the wiring to the new motor, push the door switch in, press the ice dispenser arm outside the door to make sure the motor runs. If all ok, check the motor shaft for fit in the new motor. Be careful not to install the motor shaft too deep in the motor splines, otherwise there may not be enough spline showing on the top end to engage the auger. Bolt the motor in place, close access door and install the holder and ice bucket and make sure everything works. If there is not enough spline showing thru the holder to engage the auger, take pliers and pull the shaft up a bit. This seems to be a hit or miss fit on the shaft but you can adjust the height of the shaft without taking every thing apart again. That's all, not difficult at all. But do check parts and pieces for anything else you might need, parts wise, before ordering the motor by itself like I did. Shipping is high, so try to order any associated parts needed when you order the motor. By the way, This site are great to work with!