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1065117 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

Models starting with 1065117

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Refrigerator Air Filter – Part Number: W10311524
$17.15
In Stock
Refrigerator Air Filter
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★★★★★
(44)
Part #W10311524
This Refrigerator Air Filter is a white 1.8x3.2" plastic filter which neutralizes odor and bacteria in the air. It should be replaced every six months at a minimum. Refer to your user manual and model number to see if this filter is right for your fridge. Location for storage of the air filter may vary from model to model, but generally, you will find a small cover on the back-middle-top of your fridge, which can be popped off to reveal the air filter, which can be easily changed out from there. This part does not come sold with the indicator; it is the filter only. Sold individually.
Refrigerator Door Switch – Part Number: W11384469
$30.53
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(95)
Part #W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WPW10225581
$34.74
In Stock
Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat
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★★★★★
(30)
Part #WPW10225581
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-metal thermostat is to clip onto the evaporator and protect your evaporator from overheating during the defrost cycle. If your refrigerator does not defrost properly you can test both the thermostat and the heater to figure out which part is at fault. For this repair, you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a 1/4 inch nut driver, a flat blade screwdriver, a pair of wire strippers, a roll of electrical tape, and a few butt splice connectors.
Door Switch – Part Number: W11396033
$30.53
In Stock
Door Switch
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(40)
Part #W11396033
This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light when your fridge door is open, and to make sure it is off when your refrigerator door is closed. The reason you would need to replace this part is if your light is not turning on when your door is open. For this repair, you will need a putty knife, and a small flat-blade screwdriver.
Refrigerator Screw – Part Number: WPW10661886
$11.77
In Stock
Refrigerator Screw
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★★★★★
(3)
Part #WPW10661886
This mounting screw is a genuine OEM replacement part for the door handle in your refrigerator. If you are having trouble shutting the refrigerator door, or opening it, replacing this screw can help solve the issue. Replacing this part is easy and requires minimal disassembly of the refrigerator end cap handle. Your will need a screwdriver to complete this repair.
Touch-Up Paint - White – Part Number: 72017
$24.15
In Stock
Touch-Up Paint - White
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★★★★★
(7)
Part #72017
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is an 18 ml, or.6 fluid ounces, bottle of touch-up paint. It also features a brush for easy application. This quick-drying, long-lasting paint is perfect for fixing any nicks, scratches, or chips on the exterior of your appliance. This paint is white in color, and provides a durable finish.
Screw – Part Number: WP489483
$11.77
In Stock
Screw
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(1)
Part #WP489483
This screw is sold individually.
Evaporator Fan Blade – Part Number: WP2169142
$28.42
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Blade
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★★★★★
(5)
Part #WP2169142
If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate the cold air into the refrigerator and freezer sections. The fan blade is white in color and made from plastic. This is a genuine OEM part. Please be sure to disconnect the power to your refrigerator before starting your repair.
Refrigerator Seal – Part Number: WP2198628
$12.85
In Stock
Refrigerator Seal
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★★★★★
(5)
Part #WP2198628
This part is a replacement refrigerator drive shaft seal for your refrigerator. The drive shaft seal protects the auger motor from water and condensation that may leak down the drive shaft from the ice bucket. If the seal is broken, water and condensation can get in, causing the ice maker to fail. To replace the seal, first remove the ice bucket from your freezer. Then remove the two screws on the drive shaft holder, and use a pair of pliers to remove the drive shaft. At this point you can remove the seal from the drive shaft. Be sure to clean the area that the seal sits in before you reinstall the drive shaft. This part is white in color and is about an inch in diameter. The seal is sold individually.
Refrigerator Thimble Top – Part Number: WP2182181
$9.62
In Stock
Refrigerator Thimble Top
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WP2182181
For white, biscuit, black and stainless models.
Single Primary Water Inlet Valve – Part Number: WPW10238100
$105.47
In Stock
Single Primary Water Inlet Valve
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★★★★★
(17)
Part #WPW10238100
When energized, this part releases water from the supply line into the ice mold.
Icemaker Motor Kit – Part Number: 8201515
$98.81
In Stock
Icemaker Motor Kit
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(12)
Part #8201515
This kit includes the module motor, ejector arm, and ice stripper arm. The complete icemaker is sold separately.

Common Symptoms of models starting with 1065117

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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
159 of 188 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cathy from Winter Park, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
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Lights inside refrigerator not working
136 of 255 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Clint from Rayville, MO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
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Our Refrigerator and freezer stopped working
60 of 71 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anna from Lincoln, RI
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I had read on a fix it site that the start device for the compressor on this particular model was known to fail after 3-5 years. When we received the part it looked like something that just plugged into the compressor. My husband unscrewed the panel in the back of the fridge and saw the part on the compressor. He first removed the thre e wires that it was connected to, and the wires were inside a plug so all he had to do was remove the plug from the start device. He then removed the old start device from the compressor. Plugged in the wire plug into the new start device, and pushed in the new start device into the compressor. There was also another black part plugged into the old start device that he plugged inot the new start device that connected to the compressor. Our freezer and refrigerator starting working. Within a couple of hours our freezer had made ice.
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