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106510 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the 106510
91 - 105 of 2208

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Ice maker would only deliver crushed ice not cube's
36 of 54 people found this instruction helpful.
  • MICHAEL from NORTH PORT, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Switched Electric breaker to off. Removed all food and ice cube tray from freezer. Remove 4 screws on soleniod cover in rear of freezer. Removed two screws, two elec connectors from old soleniod and removed. Installed new soleniod. Reinstalled elec connectors and screws, ice cube tray and food. Turned breaker on . Ice maker worked properl y.
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Water leaked on floor when water dispenser was used.
28 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dave from Danville, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Wrench set
1. Turn off water supply to refrigerator.
2. Unscrew water nozzle from dispenser.
3. Remove grill on bottom front of refrigerator.
4. Unscrew tubing at the left side of the union.
5. Unclip tubing from the refrigerator frame.
6. Pull tubing out of the dispenser about 6 inches.
7. Cut off nozzle with scissors.
8. Insert 1/4" diameter x 1" long molly bolt about halfway into end of tubing where it was cut.
9. Insert the remainder of the molly bolt into the end of the new tubing.
10. Pull the old tubing through the bottom of the door.
11. When the new tubing is pulled all the way through the door disconnect from the old tubing. Remove molly bolt if it is in the new tubing.
12. Remove the ferrel from the old tubing and use to attach new tubing to the union.
13. Connect the water nozzle to the dispenser.
14. Insert new tubing into the clips on the refrigerator frame.
15. Re-install grill.
16. Turn on water.
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Icemaker arm was broken
33 of 45 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jason from Austin, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.

Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the c ables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.

Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.

It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)
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The black plastic or teflon coating on the ice mold was coming off in flakes and freezing in the ice cubes
32 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roger from Sunnyvale, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I took out the ice collection box and auger to get access to the three screws holding the ice maker assembly against the left wall of the freezer. You can use a screwdriver or a nut driver. I then unpluged the assembly and wiggled it loose from the water fill tube. I assumed that unplugging the unit would disable the water valve but I put a plastic tub under the fill tube just in case. I studied the assembly on the kitchen table for a few minutes before I disasembled it. After removing a snapon plastick cover I removed three or four screws on the gearbox and was able to pull and wiggle the parts apart. The heater contacts have rubber O rings so you have to be firm pulling the mould out of and into the gearbox mount. Make sure it is fully seated. On reassembly note that the ice kicking arm is notched so it fits into the gearbox only one way and it helps to have it in position when you screw the gearbox back on. I also found the plastic ice guide that fits on top of the mold a little awkward in snaping back together. Make sure its fingers space evenly with the ice kicking arms.
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Defrost timer was faulty. It would not restart on it's own.
33 of 47 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ed from Frankfort, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Just removed the old timer and attached the wires to the new one and replaced the old. That simple!
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Broken Shelf Bracket
26 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Leesburg, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Removed food itmes on broken shelf. Removed old glass shelf cover. Removed broken shelf bracket. Installed new shelf bracket. Intalled new glass shelf cover. Replaced food items back on shelf
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Water dispenser not working, Ice dispenser chute icing up
27 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeff from Parchment, MI
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I removed the outer ice/water dispenser cover following directions I found on-line (push down and gently pry out at the bottom). I then removed several nut-head screws which were holding a plastic plate which had the door light and electric control wiring mounted in it. Behind that I found a broken tab on the Control Bracket which was w hy my water dispencer was not working and I found the chute door for the ice maker was chewed up which allowed warm air into the chute and was causing my ice build up problem. Replacing the Control Bracket was easy. Just note how things come apart. Putting the chute door in was a little more complicated, but again, note how things come apart and you should not have a problem putting it back together.
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Water running out of cold water in freezer door
27 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jackie from Niota, TN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
took back of refrigerator, removed water lines, removed electrical connections. removed 2 screws holding water valve, replaced water valve, replaced electrical connection, replaced water lines. Put back on refrigerator. Tested water on freezer door. Didn't work, had to take refrigerator back off again and check the electrical. I didn't g et one of the connection put on securely, Put back on refrigerator, check water on freezer door. It worked. Make sure the electrical connection are connected this will sav you about 10 minutes of repair time
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broken meat and vegatable draw
25 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • douglas g. from roanoke, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
a simple replacement
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refrigerator door wouldn't remain closed
27 of 34 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Fairfax, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The plastic lower door closing cam was worn down. Replacing it was very simple: remove the top door hinge by unscrewing three nuts; lift the door off the lower hinge; unscrew and remove the lower door hinge; screw the new plastic lower door closing cam on to the new door hinge; screw the new lower door hinge; lift the door back on to th e lower door hinge; screw the top door hinge.
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Shelf support stub for crisper broke
24 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • edna from las vegas, NV
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
I had read here from someone that fixed there shelf support stub and it was very loose, so I was trying to advoid that problem. It took me less then 5 minutes and my only tool was a pair of pliers. A short turn clock wise from the 9 on a clock to the 12 ( which is the top left corner ). then pull the broke shelf stub straight out. Put t he new shelf support in the same way you took the old one out and turn counter clock wise 1/4 or from 12 back to 9 and you should have a tight fit. I hope this helped.
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motor coupling weld broken
24 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • HAROLD from SPRING HOPE, NC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed four screws from ice maker motor/light support.Then unplugged electrical plug from side of freezer.Used two slip joint pliers to remove coupler from motor shaft. installed new coupler to shaft hand tight as will tighten as motor is run.Then reversed tear down order.
Ice dispenser works better than when we first got the refrig erator
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Refrigerator door fails to close on its own like it is designed to.
23 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jay from Oconomowoc, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
The design of this refrigerator door (it's a side-by-side) is somewhat unbelievable. The door is designed to hold things, yet when you do the weight of the door wears out the lower door cams. The cams are designed to "complete the door closing", i.e. when you gently push on the door the cam mechanism takes over. When the cams wear, the door fails to close. Note to others - you may mistakenly think that the failure of the door to close is related to the seal; it is not.

The repair is quite easy; remove the upper cover, using a not driver (socket), then remove the upper door bracket. Make sure you hold the door or have someone else hold it. After the fasteners are removed gently lift up on the door and remove it from the lower cam assembly. You will see two plastic cam pieces; one on the lower bracket and one on the door. Both need to be changed to effectively "renew" the door closing mechanism. Once the cams are replaced the door can be reassembled to the refrigerator.
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refrigerator was intermittently cooling because thermostat contacts burned away.
23 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from Westlake, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Turn off the fridge and unplug the power. Inside the refrigerator unit, remove two plastic panels extending from the front to the rear cooling vent by unscrewing two screws. Gently unhook the thermostat tube from the rear vent.

On the control panel, gently pry off the two control knobs and the front control panel. Remove fo ur screws to drop down the control assembly. Unplug the left electrical connector and unscrew the lever control arm being careful not to bend it. Disconnect the right side electrical connector and you can now remove the control unit to a table to easily work on it.

Undo two screws to remove the thermostat bracket. Undo two more screws to remove the thermostat assembly. Install the new thermostat and reverse the process just described. It takes about 15 minutes if you know what to do ahead of time. You will have to reuse the plastic tube that covers the thermostat sensing tube.
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Ice Door would not close
26 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from Sandy, UT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I removed the Ice door front cover on freezer door. Found door pivot was broken. I installed door pivot bracket, and dashpot in kit. I used most of the kit to repair it. The door now works like new. Thanks for the right parts Frank
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All Instructions for the 106510
91 - 105 of 2208