106440 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions
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ice maker did not make ice
49 of 64 people
found this instruction helpful.
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DAVID from TINLEY PARK, IL
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
The ice maker was not getting water. I hotwired the water valve by switching the connectors for the water dispenser and ice maker water valves and water flowed into the icemaker when the water dispenser lever was pushed. I wronly assumed the water valve was good. I removed the icemaker and determined that the gear motor was not getting po
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wer in the position the icemaker had stopped.In this position, the thermostat determines when the motor gets power so I replaced the thermostat. The icemaker still would not get water! As it turns out, the water solenoid was sticking due to a deteriorated rubber washer which let the solenoid plunger get too far out of the magnetic field. I replaced the water solenoid assy and all is well. Don't get fooled by hotwiring the valve. If it isn't getting water, the solenoid probably is the culprit.
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water to ice maker not shutting off; overflowing
43 of 48 people
found this instruction helpful.
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g anthony from salt lake city, UT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
1. turn off power.
2. pop off ice maker cover to access motor assembly.
3. remove three screws to assembly.
4. pull off assembly.
5. attach new assembly making sure metal arm and plastic
ice tray rod align with assembly.
6. screw assembly onto unit.
7. replace cover.
8. plug in refrigerator ... Read more .
9. enjoy ice again with no leakage into freezer.
2. pop off ice maker cover to access motor assembly.
3. remove three screws to assembly.
4. pull off assembly.
5. attach new assembly making sure metal arm and plastic
ice tray rod align with assembly.
6. screw assembly onto unit.
7. replace cover.
8. plug in refrigerator ... Read more .
9. enjoy ice again with no leakage into freezer.
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Ice maker quit making ice
41 of 43 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gerald from Fulton, KY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
While looking for parts I read the advice on you web site under the ice maker parts. I also had problems reading the LED codes. They would change each time I unplugged the refrig and powered up. I took the other guys advice, ordered the emittered and receiver and the next morning I had ice. GREAT service guys, thanks. Also the part w
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as on my door step in 1.5 days. Sure beat an expensive service charge.
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old condenser fan motor shaft was loose and it made the spinning fan blades shake and cause noise
40 of 44 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Christopher from Snow Camp, NC
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench set
The procedure was straightforward. I removed the cardboard backing on the lower back of the refrigerator to expose the fan unit. I then undid the electrical harness at the fan. I then removed the three screws securing the fan motor to the metal bracket. This is the hardest part in that I had to reach through and get to the screws with my
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small tools. I then removed the old motor and blades and placed the new motor and blades. Again, a bit tricky trying to get the three screws mounted into the bracket...small tools and hands helps. After that I used the electrical harness supplied with the kit to plug into the new motor and I was done.
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No Ice, Water did not fill icemaker
45 of 59 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Barbara from Davenport, IA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
We weren't sure if the problem was in the Water Inlet Valve or in the Icemaker Control & Motor Assembly. The water in the door did work. We removed the Water Inlet Valve & tested it with an Ohm Meter. It tested good so we put it back in. We then ordered the Icemaker Control & Motor Assembly. When it arrived we installed it and waited
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a few hours but the icemaker still did not fill with water. We telephoned a parts store and were told the problem could be the thermostat or we could replace the whole icemaker. We replaced the whole icemaker.
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Shelf was cracked.
43 of 55 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
James from Lawrenceville, GA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
It was easy to snap off the old shelf and snap in the new. The price was right. The part was right. If I need to, I'll be back.
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Worn out door plastic cam
36 of 38 people
found this instruction helpful.
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ROGER from WAXHAW, NC
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
Replaced the door cam on bottom of fridge door. ONE THING TO UNDERSTAND- THERE ARE 2 CAMS ON THE DOOR, LOWER AND UPPER, BUT THE UPPER CAM IS NOT LISTED ON THE "DOOR HARDWARE" DRAWING, ITS LISTED ON THE MAIN BODY DRAWING! BE SURE TO GET BOTH CAMS! (PARTSELECT COULD MAKE A NOTE THAT WHEN PEOPLE LOOK UP LOWER CAM, PUT A NOTE IN THERE SAYING
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Y0U NEED UPPER TOO!)So I had to order the upper cam later and install later. BUT it is quite easy to replace, unlike the video, I only needed 1 tool! The nut driver (electric screwdriver w nut driver head). Thanks -RF
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My son broke my crisper drawer (the edge that made the drawer stay on track, so I wanted another one.
37 of 44 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Marion from New Burn, NC
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I took the old drawer out and replaced it with the new one!
I hooked a new door bin in the door for more room!
I hooked a new door bin in the door for more room!
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Light Switch broke
48 of 78 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James Richard from St. Cloud, MN
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only
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swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.
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Auto Defrost Freezer keeps defrosting SIDE BY SIDE KITCHENAID
38 of 48 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
James from Ringoes, NJ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
DISCONNECT POWER. Removed all shelves/baskets.Popped upper panel off (just clips in) Removed 6 screws in lower back panel ( 3 each side) slid panel in place but down. You can then easily see the defrost thermostat/defrost termination switch. Cut the wire connectors (pink n brown wire) stripped back wire, attached new defrost thermostat.
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Thermostat clips on. New thermostat ohm's at 5.5, old one was "open". Slid cover back up meeting the upper cover grooves. Screwed lower panel in. Put shelves etc back in. Plugged in. Turns on, put a bottle of water in freezer. Checked a while later, frozen. has been frozen for a week.
-James
-James
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The ice maker stopped producing ice.
34 of 36 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert E. from Payson, UT
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
If you remove the bottom vent panel of the refrigerator there are two schematics for the refrigerator. One for the fridge and one for the icemaker. The icemaker has an emitter and a receiver that will tell the icemaker when it is ok to dump ice and add water. The receiver has an LED that blinks different codes. The codes give you an i
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dea where your problem is located. In my case it coded out to be the optics (emitter and receiver). Replacement of the parts involves the removal of three screws on each component and disconnecting a wire harness on each component. Install the new components by following the removal process in reverse. The total cost was $80.00. This was half the price Sears wanted for the parts and about the same price to have a Sears repairman just show up at the house.
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ref-freezer was clicking off & on
47 of 76 people
found this instruction helpful.
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RONALD W from CARSON, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
i have gotten parts from partselect before, foung model # & looked up on there web,found it, ordered,and received next day, pulled plate off of front, removed screws undone clip & and replaced part works find very good company to deal with
r w reese
r w reese
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Refrigerator Wasn't Cooling,Evaporater Coil Freezing Up
38 of 50 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Robert from Doral, FL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I have a side by side so in order to access the bi-metal switch I first had to empty out the freezer. The switch is clipped on to the top of the evaporator coil. I had to remove 8 screws to remove the back panel of the freezer compartment. The bi-metal switch was right there in plain view. There are two colored wires that come out of
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the switch. I tried pulling them out of the socket they were plugged into but gave up for fear of breaking something. I ended up cutting the wires and splicing them together. I used the plastic twist caps. I made sure when I closed everything back up that the open end of the caps were pointing down so no water can accumulate in them. It has been 3 days now and so far so good
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Drawer was dropped and broken in one corner
36 of 46 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Rolando from Edgewood, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Removed the old one. Removed the handle attachment and placed it on the new drawer and slid it in place. Just that easy.
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Frige Door Wouldn't Stay Closed, Would open when freezer door was closed.
33 of 37 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Michael from Las Vegas, NV
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Parts arrived at 2:30PM.
Read instructions, gathered tools, and went to work. I'd already watched an online video at your site on how to do the repair.
Removed the hinge cover covering the hinge top by using a nut driver to remove the single screw holding it in place. (The video described an older frige and it did n ... Read more ot have a screw. I figured that out when I finally went and got a ladder. I had tried to pop it out like the video shows.) There are three screws holding the hinge top in place. I tried using the nut driver to remove the screws but they were pretty firmly in place. I resorted to using my ratchet wrench and that made it easy. (Keep track of your screws, one of mine rolled under a cereal box on top of the frige and I thought I would never find it.)
I had emptied out all the items on the door of the frige, removing the shelves. It was easy to lift the door off of the bottom hinge and lay it on its side against the ladder. At this point I had my son hold the door steady (its kind of unwieldy and 'slippery' when you are trying to remove a screw from the bottom of the door.)
I removed the screw that held the plastic Door Closer, Upper Cam using the nut driver. I used a straight bladed screw driver to pry the old part out of the door (it has an insert for the hinge pin and it had been in place a long time). I also cleaned off the bottom of the frige door (you would be surprised what gets stuck on there - obviously someone spilled oranged juice on the floor and it splashed up on the bottom of the door). The old part had a lot of particle dust that came off it when I removed it. The new part popped right into place and I screwed it back in. The video shows that the repairman had to use a drill and tap set to rethread a larger hole but I just put the old screw back and it held fine. The video also showed the repairman adjusting the Door Stop Bracket but I didn't have to do that, the new cam installation wasn't impeded by the bracket.
I moved to the frige cabinet (again, good to have a second pair of hands to keep track of the door and not let it get damaged while I turned my attention to the Door Closer, Lower Cam. I used the nut driver to remove the screw holdin it to the hinge bottom. It came off easily (it practically fell apart and turned to dust). I placed the new cam and screwed it in using the old screw. No problem.
You could put the door back on with one person but it helps to have two. One to manhandle the door and the other to place it on the lower hinge post.
I put the upper hinge back on and put in the three screws but I left them lose so that I could adjust the door. When I tighted the single screw closest to the door after positioning the door, we tested how it opened and it was hitting the side of the interior cabinet when it closed - you could feel it dragging and it made a clunk/swoosh sound. We readjusted the door using the outside upper corner as a guide and retightened the screw. This time there was no problem. We tighted the other two screws using the ratchet wrench and then put the plastic hinge cover back on with the single screw using the nut driver.
Took us about 25 minutes and made my wife very happy (biggest benefit). The door now 'locks' open and 'locks' closed just like when we bought it and the two doors are aligned (level accross the top) which should have been a dead giveaway that the door closing cams had worn down.
Done by 3:00PM.
Read instructions, gathered tools, and went to work. I'd already watched an online video at your site on how to do the repair.
Removed the hinge cover covering the hinge top by using a nut driver to remove the single screw holding it in place. (The video described an older frige and it did n ... Read more ot have a screw. I figured that out when I finally went and got a ladder. I had tried to pop it out like the video shows.) There are three screws holding the hinge top in place. I tried using the nut driver to remove the screws but they were pretty firmly in place. I resorted to using my ratchet wrench and that made it easy. (Keep track of your screws, one of mine rolled under a cereal box on top of the frige and I thought I would never find it.)
I had emptied out all the items on the door of the frige, removing the shelves. It was easy to lift the door off of the bottom hinge and lay it on its side against the ladder. At this point I had my son hold the door steady (its kind of unwieldy and 'slippery' when you are trying to remove a screw from the bottom of the door.)
I removed the screw that held the plastic Door Closer, Upper Cam using the nut driver. I used a straight bladed screw driver to pry the old part out of the door (it has an insert for the hinge pin and it had been in place a long time). I also cleaned off the bottom of the frige door (you would be surprised what gets stuck on there - obviously someone spilled oranged juice on the floor and it splashed up on the bottom of the door). The old part had a lot of particle dust that came off it when I removed it. The new part popped right into place and I screwed it back in. The video shows that the repairman had to use a drill and tap set to rethread a larger hole but I just put the old screw back and it held fine. The video also showed the repairman adjusting the Door Stop Bracket but I didn't have to do that, the new cam installation wasn't impeded by the bracket.
I moved to the frige cabinet (again, good to have a second pair of hands to keep track of the door and not let it get damaged while I turned my attention to the Door Closer, Lower Cam. I used the nut driver to remove the screw holdin it to the hinge bottom. It came off easily (it practically fell apart and turned to dust). I placed the new cam and screwed it in using the old screw. No problem.
You could put the door back on with one person but it helps to have two. One to manhandle the door and the other to place it on the lower hinge post.
I put the upper hinge back on and put in the three screws but I left them lose so that I could adjust the door. When I tighted the single screw closest to the door after positioning the door, we tested how it opened and it was hitting the side of the interior cabinet when it closed - you could feel it dragging and it made a clunk/swoosh sound. We readjusted the door using the outside upper corner as a guide and retightened the screw. This time there was no problem. We tighted the other two screws using the ratchet wrench and then put the plastic hinge cover back on with the single screw using the nut driver.
Took us about 25 minutes and made my wife very happy (biggest benefit). The door now 'locks' open and 'locks' closed just like when we bought it and the two doors are aligned (level accross the top) which should have been a dead giveaway that the door closing cams had worn down.
Done by 3:00PM.
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