10470 - Instructions
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The bottom strip had become rusty and looking badly
5 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Carolyn from North Port, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
I pulled the oven door off the hinges and took the bolts out of the bottom of the over that were holding the strip on. I then pulled the strip off and replaced it with the new on. I replaced the bolts and then replaced the door on the hinges.
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Replaced broken oven door handle
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gerald from LA FAYETTE, GA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Got all my parts and tools ready. Sat on a stool in front of oven. Swapped out old with new. Not bad at all.
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F2 error code when oven was set at a higher temperature.
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rachele from OCEANSIDE, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip discon
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nected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.
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old drip pans rusted
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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noreen from torrington, CT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I unplugged the burner, lifted the old drip pan out, put new drip pan in, plugged burner in. The stove looks brand new and it took less than 2 minutes.
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aged burner bowls
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Louis from Sandwich, MA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I just removed the range elements and old bowls, placed the new bowls into the range top, and inserted the heating elements. What surprised me was the quickness in filling the order. I had the new parts the next day! Great!
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just needed new GE burner bowls
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jacqueline from E WENATCHEE, WA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Only instructions I have has nothing to do with installation. But I'd like to suggest that you find a better shipping method. Placed my order on Feb. 7, received message later same day that it'd shipped. I didn't receive it until Feb. 16th -- very poor delivery service.
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lights blown out
6 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gerald from WINTERVILLE, GA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer
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Alarm would sound whenever oven turned on - with an error message code
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Carolyn from MASON, MI
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the o
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fficial Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!
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Replace door gasket on very old wall oven
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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r from SUNNYVALE, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Repair went a lot faster and easier than I anticipated. Instructions are similar to those posted by others.
1. Verify that new gasket looks mostly like old gasket as best you can since not all of old gasket is visible.
2. Shut off circuit to oven (optional, but good practice)
3. Remove racks, trays, etc from oven to red ... Read more uce weight at Step 7
4. Remove oven door by partially opening door to broiler position (about 20 degrees). Door should catch and stay open on its own. Slide up and lift off door. The “hinges” are spring loaded so carefully return them to closed position so they won’t snap shut on fingers.
5. Remove Phillips screws, one on each side wall of oven liner.
6. Remove two hex screws and metal gasket-holder on top center of oven liner.
7. Pull and slide oven liner out of oven mainframe about 1/4 “ to 3/8”. This may be the most difficult part of the job.
8. If possible to remove just a couple of inches of one bottom of old gasket (right side is easiest), verify that the cross-section profile of both old and new gaskets are essentially the same. If not, you have the wrong gasket.
9. Pull and remove old gasket. If gasket is dry and cracking, it may be necessary to scrape it out with putty knife, flat-blade screwdriver, etc. if it has fused to metal over the years. Note how it was installed on the metal edge of the oven liner.
10. Locate the mid-point on the new gasket length and begin inserting it at the top-center of the oven liner where you removed the two hex screws. Continue installing along both left and right sides of the liner. Each end of the gasket should extend to just above the respective hinge. No trimming should be necessary. Ensure a snug fit all along each side and top.
11. Push liner back into oven mainframe. Replace Phillips screws, gasket-holder, and hex screws.
11. Pull out each hinge to broiler position.
12. Replace door by sliding down onto hinges. Close door and check for tight fit against gaskets. Gaskets will flatten somewhat over time
13. Restore power, racks, trays, etc.
1. Verify that new gasket looks mostly like old gasket as best you can since not all of old gasket is visible.
2. Shut off circuit to oven (optional, but good practice)
3. Remove racks, trays, etc from oven to red ... Read more uce weight at Step 7
4. Remove oven door by partially opening door to broiler position (about 20 degrees). Door should catch and stay open on its own. Slide up and lift off door. The “hinges” are spring loaded so carefully return them to closed position so they won’t snap shut on fingers.
5. Remove Phillips screws, one on each side wall of oven liner.
6. Remove two hex screws and metal gasket-holder on top center of oven liner.
7. Pull and slide oven liner out of oven mainframe about 1/4 “ to 3/8”. This may be the most difficult part of the job.
8. If possible to remove just a couple of inches of one bottom of old gasket (right side is easiest), verify that the cross-section profile of both old and new gaskets are essentially the same. If not, you have the wrong gasket.
9. Pull and remove old gasket. If gasket is dry and cracking, it may be necessary to scrape it out with putty knife, flat-blade screwdriver, etc. if it has fused to metal over the years. Note how it was installed on the metal edge of the oven liner.
10. Locate the mid-point on the new gasket length and begin inserting it at the top-center of the oven liner where you removed the two hex screws. Continue installing along both left and right sides of the liner. Each end of the gasket should extend to just above the respective hinge. No trimming should be necessary. Ensure a snug fit all along each side and top.
11. Push liner back into oven mainframe. Replace Phillips screws, gasket-holder, and hex screws.
11. Pull out each hinge to broiler position.
12. Replace door by sliding down onto hinges. Close door and check for tight fit against gaskets. Gaskets will flatten somewhat over time
13. Restore power, racks, trays, etc.
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Intermittent heat then no heat on oven element
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Bruce from AKRON, PA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.
One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer ... Read more works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.
One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer ... Read more works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.
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Broken right END of oven door HANDLE (3 separate pieces assembled)
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Margaret from SARASOTA, FL
- Very Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
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Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
(Followed the ORIGINAL manufacturer's instructions for assembly we retained when purchasing the appliance.) Replacing the broken handle end involved removal of the LEFT handle end as well as the broken RIGHT end, the center rod handle, and unscrewing the outer door face from the inner door face. Had to find specialty screwdriver for non-s
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tandard screw heads. Sigh. It was impossible to replace the door handle, as it requires removing the entire door - It is too heavy for one person to hold in place while the 2nd person tried to blindly replace screws thru a 1/2 inch slit in the outer and inner door pieces. Hiring a handyman is impossible leading up to the holidays, so we decided to just buy a new stove. Something that should be really simple to replace for less than $50 is now a major budget outlay due to a crappy design.
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Removal reinstalling
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from HAMPSTEAD, NH
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Removal old fashioned oven door handle took time after removing the oven door. New replacement handle was easy to install! Try to reinstall was long and finally got installed after 5 attempts due hinge on right side issue
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The light inside the oven had burned out
3 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Catherine from SEATTLE, WA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
... Read more />3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
... Read more />3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
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Old burner bowl needed to be replaced
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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bonnie from N KINGSTOWN, RI
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Took out the old & put in the new one-Done!
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Handle on oven broke at the right side end cap.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Patrick from MILFORD, MA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
It didn't get repaired. Put the existing screws into the cap and the screws chewed up the slot it was to go into. Destroyed the end caps L and R. Only fix appears to be an new stove.
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