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103930 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 103930
31 - 45 of 68

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no power going to burner when switch is on, switch bad
2 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Woolwich Twp., NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I followed the easy instructions and everything went well. I had the new switch installed in about 30 minutes. My wires were different colors than on the instructions but it was still easy to figure out where the wires went on the new switch. Just do not be in a hurry and make sure you measure before you break off the extension bar. My kn ob fit on the new switch without any of the parts that came with the switch.
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broil element blown out
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JOHN from AZTEC, NM
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
At first I tried to remove the element from the top of the oven. I took out the screws with a nut-driver (1/4"). Them I tried to pull the element out slowly so I could unplug it from the power wires. One of the wires pulled off bfore I could get it out. I then pulled the range out from the wall and removed the back from it. THEN I noticed that if you pull the stove away from the wall first and take off the back the wires are right there and easy to take on and off. Then replace the the back panel, plug in the stove and test the element. It will give off a slight odor as the manufacturing coating is burned off.
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Switch - and the connection wire to the burner
2 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • andrew from langdon, ND
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers
First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch ) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.
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Burner only worked on High and very low temperature setting.
2 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Duvall, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.
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The control knob stem broke off when I moved the stove.
3 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from Harvard, MA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters do n't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.
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Burner not heating properly
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Kokomo, IN
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and re move the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.
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Live in an apartment and they had generic drip pans on the stove causing pots to tilt when cooking.
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jennifer from Cleveland, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Replaced drip pans that the apartment Superintendent had in place with the correct drip pans and now cooking is beautiful again! No more uneven cooking on the stove top.
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Finish coming off of bowls
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Ledyard, CT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Removed burner from each one. removed drip bowl. Inserted new bowl. Replaced burner. Excellent help from order people so I got the correct bowl was irreplacable.
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instructions could be better
0 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • WILLARD from GLOVERSVILLE, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
it was hard to figure out the instructions from A switch to B switch to my switch. The first switch was no good the second one was good. prayer book didn't hurt.thank
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Burners would not lay flat
8 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alfred from Forest, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Removed the burner elements, removed and disposed of old drip pans, cleaned the area, relaced with new drip pans and replaced the burner elements. Verified all burners were level - good as the day it was new!
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Right Front [surface burner terminal block kit]
  • Wayne from Montoursville, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
We did the repair by following the inclosed instructions. we are elderly retired average ages 82. This was our first repair and it went very well. We are so pleased to have saved over $80.00 compared with hired labor 3 yre. ago for the same part. Thanks so much for your good service.
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broiler element burned out
  • daniel from fort mill, SC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
shut off power to range, removed old element, looked up part on line, shopped for best price, Part select was $30 less than sears replacement part, ordered part, part arrived in 4 days, installed new part and I was broling again.
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Drawer guide
  • Lee from Grass Valley, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Used Phillips screw driver, installed guide, applied lubricant.
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Broiler Element Burned Out
  • Arthur from Midlothian, VA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
1)Undid two hex nuts holding broiler element in place. 2)Slipped fasteners off pegs connecting element to oven. 3)Simply reversed the process, when installing new element.
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Finding a drip pan that fit so that pots could sit level.
  • Ann B from Hueytown, AL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Ordered the drip pan from ParSelect.com. Unplugged element and took out old pan. Placed new pan in and replaced element. For the first time in many years, the part fit.
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All Instructions for the 103930
31 - 45 of 68