KitchenAid Warming Drawer Parts
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So I made the job real easy I called a professional to come install the new broi ... Read more ler element.
I suggest you put a big red paper in each box that says turn off the power first. If your not sure how to do that call a pro.
The screws were on the sides under a removable strip. Have a table about the same height as the base of the oven. It was easy to slide it straight over to the table.
The schematics are on top of the oven. Although you probably won't ... Read more need them for the parts we replaced. When you have the oven out and the back panel removed, it is easy to identify the exact parts you are replacing. The part numbers were the same on the fuses. The thermostat was a simple pull apart. Then undo the 2 screws inside the oven. The heat sensor required some figuring. There is a pin that holds it in place in a plastic casing. We used a small flat head screw driver to push the pin flat to loosen it from the casing. This part was behind the digital panel and the only one that didn't require the oven coming out.
We would easily do this project again and glad we did. We saved $340.00 by doing it ourselves. I am glad I found PartSelect.com
Make sure you turn off the breaker to the appliance first. You don't want any electrical surprises. The hospital bill would be more expensive than the repairman !!
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OVER 2 MILLION PARTS TO ENSURE VICTORY
2. The warming slide-out drawer was removed. Note: There was damage to the left side plastic release lever--it was completely melted and unusable. (The damage was probably a manufacturer defect that existed when the unit was originally installed.) The right side plastic release m ... Read more echanism was OK. After applying a little leverage to wiggle the drawer horizontally, the drawer was removed successfully.
3. The four (4) Phillips-head screws holding the warming drawer in the cabinet were removed to allow the unit to slide forward to expose the electrical box.
4. The five (5) Phillips-head screws holding the electrical box cover were removed to allow access to the thermal fuse.
5. The single (1) Phillips-head screw holding the fuse in place was removed. This allowed the connectors to be removed while noting which connector was closest to the red dot on the fuse.
6. The resistance was measured on the old fuse and it was found to be an open circuit, i.e., the fuse had been activated confirming that a new fuse was needed.
7. The connectors were installed on the new thermal fuse and the fuse secured again with the Phillips-head screw.
8. Electric power was again enabled to confirm that the unit would turn on.
9. The box cover was re-secured using the five Phillips-head screws.
10. The warming drawer unit was repositioned in the cabinet and the four Phillips-head screws were reinstalled to hold the unit in place.
11. The warming drawer was reinstalled after minor lubrication was applied to the slide mechanism to facilitate easier opening and closing of the drawer.