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This part is a retaining ring, sometimes called a retaining clip, that holds the drum support roller onto the shaft of a dryer. It is made entirely of metal and measures less than an inch in diameter. The retaining ring is a genuine OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. The ring may vary in appearance due to manufacturer substitution, but the function is the same. You may need to replace this part if the dryer is noisy during tumbling, will not tumble, or takes too long to dry. Be sure to check drum support roller kit and shaft before ordering parts.
This part is a retaining ring, sometimes called a retaining clip, that holds the drum support roller onto the shaft of a dryer. It is made entirely of metal and measures less than an inch in diameter. The retaining ring is a genuine OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. The ring may vary in appearance due to manufacturer substitution, but the function is the same. You may need to replace this part if the dryer is noisy during tumbling, will not tumble, or takes too long to dry. Be sure to check drum support roller kit and shaft before ordering parts.
Installation Instructions
gerald from park city, MT
dryer squeeking
removed front panel,lifted top, removed drum and drive belt,remove old rollers and acc and instlled new and reinstalled dryer parts.
This idler pulley shaft washer is used with many clothes dryers. It is less than an inch long, and it is black in color.
This idler pulley shaft washer is used with many clothes dryers. It is less than an inch long, and it is black in color.
Installation Instructions
Frederick W. from Austin, TX
Motor buzzed and dryer drum would not spin when pressing start
From the first time the motor buzzed (but dryer tumbler then started to turn), 2 weeks elapsed for the dryer drum to stop turning altogether. If this occurs, DO NOT continue to push the start button because the motor armature wiring will heat up and the insulation will begin to melt and smell - a SAFETY HAZARD. Unplug dryer and lockout/
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tagout as appropriate.
Through basic troubleshooting, discovered the motor had seized up. Since the unit was about 10 years old and it had to be disassembled for replacement, the decision was made to replace "likely to fail mechanical components including motor, belt, both rear drum rollers/shafts, idler arm pulley/assembly/wheel, associated washers, snap rings and both front glides. Reviewed the PartSelect website and drawings, ordered the parts and they delivered on time. Buy the correct sized snap rings at a local hardware, they're much less expensive. Also once inside your dryer, you'll likely find alot of lint to vacuum out...have fun.
I went online and Googled several resources that showed how to remove the front dryer panels, as well as PartSelect repair stories. From that point on, I took photos as I was disassembling so I would know how to put it back together. Utilize pictures or whatever system you prefer to keep track of taking something apart and putting it back together.
Remove the dryer door, then the front panel Disconnect wires to the light, dryness sensor and door switch. Note belt and pulley configuration that is near the motor-this will help you later when reinstalling the belt. Also note if the ribbed side or the flat side of the belt is against the outer drum wall. Remove the door shroud.
Slip the belt off the idler pulley wheel. Remove front drum support, then dryer drum Note which end of the dryer drum is the front and the orientation of the glides on the drum support. Discard old belt. Drill out and remove the old front glide supports, then install/rivet the new glides.
Remove both old rear drum rollers/shafts, washers, etc. The rear drum roller shafts are secured to a back bracket by a hex nut....feel around you'll figure it out. Replace new roller shafts. Lightly grease using a high quality silicon grease, then replace new washers, roller, snap ring, etc
Carefully unplug wiring harness on motor, there are fragile clips on each end. Don't forget a separate ground wire from the harness is attached to the motor mount bracket. Carefully release tension on the idler arm spring. Using the correct size nut driver, remove three screws (on this model) then take out the motor/idler arm assembly. Remove the old idler arm/pulley assembly. Remove the motor mount clips on each end of the mount (I used a wide blade screwdriver). Remove and replace the motor. Motor configurations changed after Whirlpool bought Maytag, so orient it correctly insuring mounting gasket "nubs" on each end of the motor correspond to the cutouts on the motor mount. Reinstall the motor mount clips. Replace the new idler arm assembly/pulley wheel; grease moving parts with high quality wheel bearing grease. Replace motor/mount bracket assembly back into the dryer. Replace ground wire to motor mount bracket and plug wiring harness back in. Reinstall idler arm spring.
Place belt back on the dryer drum and move into place on rear rollers. Reinstall front drum support. Dryer drum should turn relatively easy. Insure belt is oriented on the drum correctly before connecting belt to motor shaft end and idler arm wheel pulley (the picture you took comes in handy here).
Reinstall the rest of the parts in reverse.
Through basic troubleshooting, discovered the motor had seized up. Since the unit was about 10 years old and it had to be disassembled for replacement, the decision was made to replace "likely to fail mechanical components including motor, belt, both rear drum rollers/shafts, idler arm pulley/assembly/wheel, associated washers, snap rings and both front glides. Reviewed the PartSelect website and drawings, ordered the parts and they delivered on time. Buy the correct sized snap rings at a local hardware, they're much less expensive. Also once inside your dryer, you'll likely find alot of lint to vacuum out...have fun.
I went online and Googled several resources that showed how to remove the front dryer panels, as well as PartSelect repair stories. From that point on, I took photos as I was disassembling so I would know how to put it back together. Utilize pictures or whatever system you prefer to keep track of taking something apart and putting it back together.
Remove the dryer door, then the front panel Disconnect wires to the light, dryness sensor and door switch. Note belt and pulley configuration that is near the motor-this will help you later when reinstalling the belt. Also note if the ribbed side or the flat side of the belt is against the outer drum wall. Remove the door shroud.
Slip the belt off the idler pulley wheel. Remove front drum support, then dryer drum Note which end of the dryer drum is the front and the orientation of the glides on the drum support. Discard old belt. Drill out and remove the old front glide supports, then install/rivet the new glides.
Remove both old rear drum rollers/shafts, washers, etc. The rear drum roller shafts are secured to a back bracket by a hex nut....feel around you'll figure it out. Replace new roller shafts. Lightly grease using a high quality silicon grease, then replace new washers, roller, snap ring, etc
Carefully unplug wiring harness on motor, there are fragile clips on each end. Don't forget a separate ground wire from the harness is attached to the motor mount bracket. Carefully release tension on the idler arm spring. Using the correct size nut driver, remove three screws (on this model) then take out the motor/idler arm assembly. Remove the old idler arm/pulley assembly. Remove the motor mount clips on each end of the mount (I used a wide blade screwdriver). Remove and replace the motor. Motor configurations changed after Whirlpool bought Maytag, so orient it correctly insuring mounting gasket "nubs" on each end of the motor correspond to the cutouts on the motor mount. Reinstall the motor mount clips. Replace the new idler arm assembly/pulley wheel; grease moving parts with high quality wheel bearing grease. Replace motor/mount bracket assembly back into the dryer. Replace ground wire to motor mount bracket and plug wiring harness back in. Reinstall idler arm spring.
Place belt back on the dryer drum and move into place on rear rollers. Reinstall front drum support. Dryer drum should turn relatively easy. Insure belt is oriented on the drum correctly before connecting belt to motor shaft end and idler arm wheel pulley (the picture you took comes in handy here).
Reinstall the rest of the parts in reverse.
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If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, then you may need to replace the drum roller shaft washer. This drum roller shaft washer is just under an inch in diameter and is sold individually. It is located on the shaft of the drum roller, in the interior of your dryer. To access the drum roller shaft, you will need to remove the front panel of your dryer, and then remove the drum. Before completing this repair, be sure to disconnect the power source from the dryer. Tools required for this repair include a 5/16 nut driver, a stubby Phillips screwdriver, and a pair of snap ring pliers.
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, then you may need to replace the drum roller shaft washer. This drum roller shaft washer is just under an inch in diameter and is sold individually. It is located on the shaft of the drum roller, in the interior of your dryer. To access the drum roller shaft, you will need to remove the front panel of your dryer, and then remove the drum. Before completing this repair, be sure to disconnect the power source from the dryer. Tools required for this repair include a 5/16 nut driver, a stubby Phillips screwdriver, and a pair of snap ring pliers.
Installation Instructions
gerald from park city, MT
dryer squeeking
removed front panel,lifted top, removed drum and drive belt,remove old rollers and acc and instlled new and reinstalled dryer parts.
This roller shaft hex nut measures well under an inch long. It is made of metal and is used for Maytag brand clothes dryers.
This roller shaft hex nut measures well under an inch long. It is made of metal and is used for Maytag brand clothes dryers.
Installation Instructions
gerald from park city, MT
dryer squeeking
removed front panel,lifted top, removed drum and drive belt,remove old rollers and acc and instlled new and reinstalled dryer parts.
This screw is sold individually.
This screw is sold individually.
Installation Instructions
Alexander from Lakeland, FL
Broken Dryer Knob
First let me just say that Partselect.com is now one my stored favorites in my web browser. I came home from a business trip and saw a pair of pliers on the dryer. I thought that was odd until my wife informed me that the knob on the dryer had broken. So she was using the pliers to select the cycle. Somehow she knew where the missing p
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ointer was actually pointing. Since the dryer was over 5 years old I saw this as an opportunity to upgrade both appliances. Not with my frugal wife. A search of the Internet popped up partselect. I ordered Wednesday morning and the parts where on my doorstep late Thursday. Trust me I was very surprised. Everything worked perfectly. Two thumbs up!!!
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This idler shaft retaining ring is well under an inch long and is made of metal.
This idler shaft retaining ring is well under an inch long and is made of metal.
Installation Instructions
Scott from Davie, FL
Squeaking noise when dryer was on! Very annoying!
If your dryer is squeaking it is most likely either the idler pulley or drum rollers. First I took apart the dryer to see which parts I would need. I checked the drum rollers by spinning them with my hand to see if they spun freely and also checked them to see if they were loose, they were okay. Then I checked the idler pulley and foun
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d my problem, it was hard to spin it so I figured the bearing was shot. I sprayed some lubricant on the bearing to help with the squeaking while I waited for my parts. It took about 30 minutes to diagnose my problem and put the dryer back together.
I took some advise from another story saying to get the whole idler arm, shaft and pulley assembly. It might have cost me a few bucks more, but I did not want to run into the same problem he did (the pulley bearing was fused to the shaft). It took me about 20 minutes to take apart the dryer, install the part, and put it back together. If you are pretty good with fixing things, you should have no problem doing this repair.
I took some advise from another story saying to get the whole idler arm, shaft and pulley assembly. It might have cost me a few bucks more, but I did not want to run into the same problem he did (the pulley bearing was fused to the shaft). It took me about 20 minutes to take apart the dryer, install the part, and put it back together. If you are pretty good with fixing things, you should have no problem doing this repair.
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This blower wheel clamp, used in a clothes dryer, is a clamp that holds the blower wheel to the motor shaft. This part helps hold the blower wheel in place to function easily and properly. If your clothes dryer has any of the following symptoms then replacing the clamp can be a solution: making loud noises, not producing enough heat or no heat at all, and/or clothes are taking too long to dry. Make sure to unplug thedryer from power source before installing this part and refer to the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer for further guidance.
This blower wheel clamp, used in a clothes dryer, is a clamp that holds the blower wheel to the motor shaft. This part helps hold the blower wheel in place to function easily and properly. If your clothes dryer has any of the following symptoms then replacing the clamp can be a solution: making loud noises, not producing enough heat or no heat at all, and/or clothes are taking too long to dry. Make sure to unplug thedryer from power source before installing this part and refer to the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer for further guidance.
Installation Instructions
Tim from Jacobus, PA
Dryer was making horrible noise,
First I removed the 2 screws behind the door just below the slot for the lint trap(t-15 torx screws). I then popped the top of the dryer off using a flat tipped screw driver and using a 8mm. socket and extension I removed the 2 sheet metal screws from inside of the top corners of the front panel which attach it to the side panels. After
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that I could lean the front panel away from the unit and unplug the door switch being careful to mark the wires so I wouldn't have to take it apart again in the instance that I hooked them up wrong. I then leaned the front panel out a little more and lifted it off of the pins that lock the bottom of the front panel in. After that, I removed the sheet metal screws(8 mm.) that secure the fan housing cover and removed the old fan which was easy as it had spun the center out of itself and basically fell off, this is what was making all the racket. I removed the c-clip which rides in the groove at the end of the shaft with a flat tip and a pair of pliers, slid the new fan blade over the shaft, gave it a few light taps with the end of a hammer handle to seat it properly and installed the tension clamp with some pliers and popped the c-clip back on. I reversed the tear down procedures and reassembled the drier. Thanks to a little no-how, mechanical inclination, and the right parts, I was able to restore my drier to like new, virtually silent operation for about $40 as opposed to buying a new unit or paying a repairman $80 to $100 per hour plus parts to do the job. PartSelect.com made specifying and ordering the correct parts the first time a breeze and their prices are a bargain to boot.
Thanks,
Thanks,
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This spring retaining clip is just under 1 inch long. The clip is made entirely of metal and is attached to the back wall of the washer, under the console. If your washer is vibrating and louder than usual during the wash cycle, your spring retaining clip could be faulty or damaged. Check the clip for visible damage, wear, and rust. If you notice any signs of damage, the part should be replaced. Remember to disconnect the power from your washing machine before starting this repair.
This spring retaining clip is just under 1 inch long. The clip is made entirely of metal and is attached to the back wall of the washer, under the console. If your washer is vibrating and louder than usual during the wash cycle, your spring retaining clip could be faulty or damaged. Check the clip for visible damage, wear, and rust. If you notice any signs of damage, the part should be replaced. Remember to disconnect the power from your washing machine before starting this repair.
Installation Instructions
Ralph from Moreno Valley, CA
unusually loud rumbling in spin mode, no spin out
removed outer enclosure to expose inside workings. removed all retaining springs to tub and transmission housing. Inverted tub to access agitator pulley and belt. Removed pulley and cut belt off.(I knew I was replacing it, anyway.)Had to remove large tub bracket to exchange new pulley for old. Disconnect bleach reservoir filler tubing
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on tub assembly. Disconnect power connector to drive motor. Removed water pump to access drive pulley where new belt belongs. Aligned belt to pulleys and checked idler pulley tension which was acceptable. Replace helix drive lug against spin/agitator and tightened retaining bolt. Assembled components in reverse order and conducted test run. Success. Smooth running machine and saved about $200 on professional labor costs. I had no repair manual but you should have a personal confidence in general repair work. Something like a history of taking things apart and putting them back together successfully. I had an independent appliance repair guy examine the washer and he said it was too complicated for him. Once I had it apart, it seemed fairly basic. Good luck!
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Introduce a seamless fix to your dryer with this genuine OEM part from Whirlpool. This idler bracket spacer is exclusively designed to attach to your dryer's motor bracket, enabling smooth and effortless movement of the idler arm. By installing this part, you ensure enhanced operation and longevity of your appliance. Remember to unplug your machine prior to installation and to don work gloves for added safety. Despite mirroring similarities with other parts, minor variations in size and shape are worth noting. Opt for this Whirlpool-produced part for an authentic, manufacturer-certified solution.
Introduce a seamless fix to your dryer with this genuine OEM part from Whirlpool. This idler bracket spacer is exclusively designed to attach to your dryer's motor bracket, enabling smooth and effortless movement of the idler arm. By installing this part, you ensure enhanced operation and longevity of your appliance. Remember to unplug your machine prior to installation and to don work gloves for added safety. Despite mirroring similarities with other parts, minor variations in size and shape are worth noting. Opt for this Whirlpool-produced part for an authentic, manufacturer-certified solution.
Installation Instructions
Jeff from Gardendale, AL
idler pulley, idler bracket, idler spacer & Belt worn from age
First I unplugged the machine; an essential to avoiding getting shocked during this repair. This is a must and should not be overlooked it could cost you your life.
Removed two screws from lower area of front panel, pulled bottom of front panel toward yourself so as to swing out and up, continue to swing panel up to your self ... Read more until it comes free from top clips.
Once free set gently on floor and remove door switch wires, noting which wire goes to which contact is not essential but could be more convenient when putting it all back together.
Remove door switch wire from clasp at top inside from panel, set front panel aside in safe place.
Now look under the two top front corners on the inside and you will see a screw in each corner; these screws must be removed in order to raise top panel.
This is kind of tedious because sometimes these screws are long and difficult to turn and space is limited and tight in getting rachet or nut driver on the head of these screws.
Be patient , because they will come out with a little work. To make this process a little easier you might do the following step first but you cannot do this little trick when putting it back together.
Once these screws are out raise top panel and lean back against wall; be careful because the two enamel surfaces are slick and if leaned too far back the top will want to slide out at the bottom from being on a lean.
Remove four screws from tumbler front, lift slightly so as to come off side clips then pull straight out. Remove door wire from clasp and drop wire gently back inside so as to let it fall to the bottom of the machine and away from the tumbler, which is to be removed next.
Once this is done the tumbler will go down in the front due to pressure from belt. The belt could have been removed from pulley right from the start to relieve this tension but I just do it this way.
Once tumbler sags or leans down in the front gently work the belt off of the back of the tumbler; there will still be a little pressure on the belt and gentle force may be required in sliding it toward the back and then off; once belt is off gently lift tumbler up and out and put in a safe place.
Once this is done you will be able to easily see everything in the bottom of the dryer; motor, gas valves, thermal switches, vent pipe and pulley, pulley bracket and belt which by this time has fallen to the bottom of dryer; gently remove belt from pulley and set aside in safe place.
Make sure it is out of reach of children or it will be played with or used as a hangmans noose; it is long an flexible and children just seem to love playing with it.
At this point you can either continue to work from the front of the machine or the back; I f you choose to work from the back then lower the top panel so as to allow it to just sit back down on the sides of the machine, pull the machine away from the wall and work from the back; because I am experienced at this I continue to work from the front.
If you choose to work from the back then while standing in the back of the machine look to lower right corner and you will see an access panel with four screws in it; remove these screws and the panel will come free giving you a clear view of the belt pulley.
From either back or front view you will see a spring attached to pulley bracket which can easily be removed when pulley bracket is in relaxed position; remove this spring and put in a safe place if you have plans of reusing it. I installed a new spring on this repair.
Once this spring has been removed then look directly beneath bracket at what is easily seen to be its pivot point and you will see a mounting screw. Remove this screw with a nut driver and the bracket will then come completely free; slide through access hole and come out with it.
Once it is out the white spacer is easily seen on bracket; look at the bracket side of the spacer and you will see a mounting screw; remove this screw and spacer will come off.
When installing new space
Removed two screws from lower area of front panel, pulled bottom of front panel toward yourself so as to swing out and up, continue to swing panel up to your self ... Read more until it comes free from top clips.
Once free set gently on floor and remove door switch wires, noting which wire goes to which contact is not essential but could be more convenient when putting it all back together.
Remove door switch wire from clasp at top inside from panel, set front panel aside in safe place.
Now look under the two top front corners on the inside and you will see a screw in each corner; these screws must be removed in order to raise top panel.
This is kind of tedious because sometimes these screws are long and difficult to turn and space is limited and tight in getting rachet or nut driver on the head of these screws.
Be patient , because they will come out with a little work. To make this process a little easier you might do the following step first but you cannot do this little trick when putting it back together.
Once these screws are out raise top panel and lean back against wall; be careful because the two enamel surfaces are slick and if leaned too far back the top will want to slide out at the bottom from being on a lean.
Remove four screws from tumbler front, lift slightly so as to come off side clips then pull straight out. Remove door wire from clasp and drop wire gently back inside so as to let it fall to the bottom of the machine and away from the tumbler, which is to be removed next.
Once this is done the tumbler will go down in the front due to pressure from belt. The belt could have been removed from pulley right from the start to relieve this tension but I just do it this way.
Once tumbler sags or leans down in the front gently work the belt off of the back of the tumbler; there will still be a little pressure on the belt and gentle force may be required in sliding it toward the back and then off; once belt is off gently lift tumbler up and out and put in a safe place.
Once this is done you will be able to easily see everything in the bottom of the dryer; motor, gas valves, thermal switches, vent pipe and pulley, pulley bracket and belt which by this time has fallen to the bottom of dryer; gently remove belt from pulley and set aside in safe place.
Make sure it is out of reach of children or it will be played with or used as a hangmans noose; it is long an flexible and children just seem to love playing with it.
At this point you can either continue to work from the front of the machine or the back; I f you choose to work from the back then lower the top panel so as to allow it to just sit back down on the sides of the machine, pull the machine away from the wall and work from the back; because I am experienced at this I continue to work from the front.
If you choose to work from the back then while standing in the back of the machine look to lower right corner and you will see an access panel with four screws in it; remove these screws and the panel will come free giving you a clear view of the belt pulley.
From either back or front view you will see a spring attached to pulley bracket which can easily be removed when pulley bracket is in relaxed position; remove this spring and put in a safe place if you have plans of reusing it. I installed a new spring on this repair.
Once this spring has been removed then look directly beneath bracket at what is easily seen to be its pivot point and you will see a mounting screw. Remove this screw with a nut driver and the bracket will then come completely free; slide through access hole and come out with it.
Once it is out the white spacer is easily seen on bracket; look at the bracket side of the spacer and you will see a mounting screw; remove this screw and spacer will come off.
When installing new space
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Sold Individually.
Sold Individually.
Installation Instructions
Phil from PROCTORVILLE, OH
Squeeky dryer
Okay, first of all, just let me say, if I can do this, ANYONE can. I am not very handy when it comes to things like this. I watched online videos and they will walk you through everything. I am so pleased with the results. Quiet as can be now. Before, we would have to shut the door when it was on because the scretching was so loud! The pa
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rts on this site were far more affordable than at my local repair store and they all came right to my doorstep. Overall it took me about 45 minutes and three beers :) Good luck!
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