Spring Retaining Clip WP22001650

Top came off quickly with socket wrench. Removed gasket in about a minute. Spent 45 minutes getting grime ( soap and lime) off of top. Took five minutes to replace gasket.

Haven't been able to get front back on. Clips go on side rather than top. Found missing clip for which new one was purchased in transmission. Still haven't gotten front to stay on. Clips keep springing out.

Repair not that complicated. Remove front, lean top back, remove agitator, remove special nut, remove inner tub, remove seal. Clean shaft and seal surfaces. It is highly recommended to the spanner wrench to remove the special nut. It appears one can do it with a punch and hammer, but the nut is too tight, and corroded from years of water exposure. I believe part number is TJ90TB123A, about $15. Watch the video on this web site, very good.

Remove front panel, front drum support, remove belt, drum, blower cover, spring clip, blower cover, blower wheel assy.
Ordered new parts on line, came in two days, good service. Cleaned out all lint and installed new parts in reverse order.

Noticed small pool of water on left side. Diagnosed it was injector tube. Ordered parts.

Removed front panel by removing two phillips screws and then pushed down to disengage spring clips.

Used nutdriver to remover two bolts holding top cover and then undid bleach dispenser hose.

Lifted top cover and removed clamps holding injector and fill. Replaced using 1 1/16" Stainless steel screw clamps.

THIS WAS THE FIRST REPAIR EVER ON THIS WASHER!! SIMPLY AMAZING PERFORMANCE. STILL SPINS AT HIGH RPM AND IS QUIET. Bought for my folks as a gift in 1979.

This is the reason I bought the last Maytag top loaders made in '05. Also had another one 24 years with only one repair.

Parts Select, thank you! Parts arrived in three days.

UNPLUG THE MACHINE FIRST!
a) Remove the front panel (use a putty knife to release clips)
b) Fashion a small hook-end out of a coat hanger
c) Install an additional glide spring (2 + 1 = 3) to get extra retraction of vee-belt around drive pulley as follows.
d) Hook end of of the new spring onto rear (back) hole of moving motor mount (observe orientation of existing springs to be sure that you're hooking up spring into hole correctly).
e) Lie on your right side, hold the spring in place with your left hand (go around back of the motor with your left hand).
f) Have someone hold the flashlight as you take a coat hanger and fish for the front end of the spring under the motor glide.
g) With front - end of spring held by coat hanger hook, pull spring towards you and slip spring into front hole of stationary motor mount.
h) Lightly spray in and around glide area with Teflon non-stick dry lube (DuPont or Liquid Wrench dri-lube product line).
Machine agitates like-new now.
Bleach Tube:
a) Remove hose clamps at both ends using a screwdriver.
b) Remove and discard old tube.
c) Slip on the hose clamps and slicker-up the ends of new tube with palmolive liquid detergent and slip onto tub and bleach dispenser.
d)Tighten clamps.

removed outer enclosure to expose inside workings. removed all retaining springs to tub and transmission housing. Inverted tub to access agitator pulley and belt. Removed pulley and cut belt off.(I knew I was replacing it, anyway.)Had to remove large tub bracket to exchange new pulley for old. Disconnect bleach reservoir filler tubing on tub assembly. Disconnect power connector to drive motor. Removed water pump to access drive pulley where new belt belongs. Aligned belt to pulleys and checked idler pulley tension which was acceptable. Replace helix drive lug against spin/agitator and tightened retaining bolt. Assembled components in reverse order and conducted test run. Success. Smooth running machine and saved about $200 on professional labor costs. I had no repair manual but you should have a personal confidence in general repair work. Something like a history of taking things apart and putting them back together successfully. I had an independent appliance repair guy examine the washer and he said it was too complicated for him. Once I had it apart, it seemed fairly basic. Good luck!

Once I determined where the noise was coming from I took the front cover off, two screws at the bottom and clipped at the top. Then I removed the lint screen shroud . Instructions said to remove belt and drum, but I was able to pull the drum forward enough to get to the roller without removing the belt. I removed the snap ring from the shaft holding the roller...cleaned up the shaft and installed new roller with fiber washers. Slid the drum back in place and put shroud and front cover back on. I also replaced a front panel clip that I had broken on a previous repair. It just snapped into place.

It would seem that my unhappy washer decided to
have a multiple component breakdown. after replacing one part after another, my baby runs like new. parts arrived quickly and installed easily, it was all the diagnostic that took the most time. the forums were quite helpful.