Models > ZISW48DRB

ZISW48DRB General Electric Refrigerator - Overview

Sections of the ZISW48DRB

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Ice Maker – Part Number: WR30X10093
Ice Maker
★★★★★
★★★★★
(76)
PartSelect #: PS1993870
Manufacturer #: WR30X10093
This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic ...
$216.23
  In Stock
Order within the next 11 hrs and your part ships today!
Dual Inlet Water Valve – Part Number: WR57X10051
Dual Inlet Water Valve
★★★★★
★★★★★
(16)
PartSelect #: PS901314
Manufacturer #: WR57X10051
This valve comes with 1/4" compression inlet. NOTE: This part comes with new quick connections. To install - cut retaining nuts off of existing plastic water lines and gently push them into new valv...
$61.57
  In Stock
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Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch – Part Number: WR02X11330
Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
PartSelect #: PS758446
Manufacturer #: WR02X11330
Quick connector for plastic water line - 5/16" to 5/16"
$9.03
  In Stock
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Light Switch – Part Number: WR23X10725
Light Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(59)
PartSelect #: PS8758429
Manufacturer #: WR23X10725
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the sw...
$8.56
  In Stock
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Defrost Timer - 120V 60Hz – Part Number: WR9X502
Defrost Timer - 120V 60Hz
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
PartSelect #: PS310869
Manufacturer #: WR9X502
This defrost timer will cycle for 25 minutes after every six hours of run time. The timer itself is made of plastic, and its terminals are bent, the leads are internal, and the label is orange. If you...
$93.29
  In Stock
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Auger and Ice Bucket Assembly – Part Number: WR17X4312
Auger and Ice Bucket Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(24)
PartSelect #: PS294039
Manufacturer #: WR17X4312
This auger and bucket assembly is used on 25 cubic feet and 27 cubic feet side by side models.
$279.30
  In Stock
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Ice Dispensing Drive Cup – Part Number: WR2X4550
Ice Dispensing Drive Cup
PartSelect #: PS297895
Manufacturer #: WR2X4550
Found at the end of the auger in the ice container - replace when the icemaker doesn't dispense ice.
$25.98
  In Stock
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Ice Dispenser Solenoid Service Kit – Part Number: WR62X23154
Ice Dispenser Solenoid Service Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(8)
PartSelect #: PS11699580
Manufacturer #: WR62X23154
This kit includes 1 cube solenoid, 1 armature, 2 tooth washers and 2 1/4 hex head screws.
$112.24
  In Stock
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Ice Bucket Auger Kit – Part Number: WR17X2740
Ice Bucket Auger Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS292776
Manufacturer #: WR17X2740
This ice bucket auger kit come with an auger and a blade. Please note: As per manufacture the part shown in the picture is no longer available. The updated helix coil is now approximately 5". If you c...
  No Longer Available
Fill Tube Grommet – Part Number: WR2X8474
Fill Tube Grommet
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
PartSelect #: PS299055
Manufacturer #: WR2X8474
This fill tube grommet is used on the icemaker.
$31.95
  In Stock
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ARMATURE KIT – Part Number: WR62X26536
ARMATURE KIT
PartSelect #: PS11737122
Manufacturer #: WR62X26536
$53.86
  In Stock
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Ice Dispenser Plate – Part Number: WR17X2062
Ice Dispenser Plate
PartSelect #: PS292441
Manufacturer #: WR17X2062
  No Longer Available

Questions And Answers for ZISW48DRB

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Common Symptoms of the ZISW48DRB

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Leaking
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Ice maker not making ice
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Light not working
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Not dispensing water
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Fridge too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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Noisy
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Freezer not defrosting
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Will Not Start
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Fridge runs too long
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Won’t start
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Freezer too cold
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Cracked housing on the vaave
1. Turn off water supply, and electrical ( unplug it) to fridge.
2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.
3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.
4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.
5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines are still attached.
6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.
7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections.
- now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.
- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.
8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.
9. Attach electrical lines.
- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.
10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.
11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?
12. Unplug fridge
13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.
14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.
15. Plug fridge back in.
16. Take a clean glass.
17. Fill with water from the front.
18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.
Parts Used:
Dual Inlet Water Valve
  • anthony from thornton, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
286 of 306 people found this instruction helpful.
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Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
Parts Used:
Light Switch
  • Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
116 of 144 people found this instruction helpful.
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refrigerator was not cooling but the freezer worked fine.
My husband put on the defrost timer. At first I thought the part was not going to fix the problem. After about 5 hours my refrigerator was still warm. I went to work and when I got home that evening my refrigerator was cooling and down to 28 degrees. So if you replace this part wait at least 12-24 hours. Give it time to stablize. My husband says it has to go through its cycle. It works on a 24 hour timer. My refrigerator is working fine and this has saved me alot of money. My husband says, once you put on the timer you may have to use a flat screwdriver and turn the small dial clockwise one click to start it. He removed the kick grill and replaced the part. Dont forget to shut breaker off to replace this part. Turn power back on and start the timer. We are so happy that we now have a working refrigerator.
Parts Used:
Defrost Timer - 120V 60Hz
  • Wanda from Cabins, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
86 of 100 people found this instruction helpful.
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