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ZISW42DCB General Electric Refrigerator - Overview

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Ice Maker – Part Number: WR30X10093
$207.55
In Stock
Ice Maker
★★★★★
★★★★★
(98)
Part #WR30X10093
This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white. This kit includes a set of installation instructions, a 4-pin round plug-in connector, 6 post plug-in connectors, tube and fill cup. The ideal temperature of a freezer is zero degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature in your freezer is at an appropriate level yet ice is still not being made, it could be an issue with the water inlet valve or your ice maker assembly. If you determine it is the ice maker, this is the replacement you need. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. Ice makers will need to be replaced every 3-10 years depending on the frequency of usage and water quality. This model is mounted on the freezer wall.
Dispenser Door Assembly or Flapper – Part Number: WR17X11653
$33.60
In Stock
Dispenser Door Assembly or Flapper
★★★★★
★★★★★
(93)
Part #WR17X11653
This “Dispenser Door Assembly” (Door Recess Assembly, Ice Door Assembly, Dispenser Door, Refrigerator Dispenser Ice Chute Door Kit, Dispenser Door Flap, Ice Chute Door, Flapper) keeps the room air from infiltrating the freezer. Once the lever is pressed, the door flap opens and allows the ice to dispense into your container. If your door flapper is broken, it could allow outside air to enter the freezer and alter the inside temperature. You may notice frost buildup surrounding the dispenser area. The door flap can disconnect from the dispenser lever, or the tabs that hold it in place may break. Frequent use may distort the sealing face and cause air leaks and frost buildup. This part mounts in the ice dispenser, and measures approximately 3.25 inches in diameter. It is constructed of plastic and rubber, and comes in white/black. This part is sold individually.
Primary Water Inlet Valve – Part Number: WR57X10023
$78.26
In Stock
Primary Water Inlet Valve
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★★★★★
(4)
Part #WR57X10023
This part has one port and 2 solenoids and comes with a mounting bracket. The water valve is a solenoid-operated switch located at the bottom of the refrigerator. When it is energized by electrical power, water is released from the supply line through the water valve and into the compact icemaker mold.
Water Valve and Bracket Assembly – Part Number: WR57X10026
$164.65
In Stock
Water Valve and Bracket Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(8)
Part #WR57X10026
This water valve assembly has been redesigned. It has a new quick connect style valve. To install: Cut original plastic nuts off tubing and gently push into valve until they stop. No other nuts or connectors needed.
Auger and Ice Bucket Assembly – Part Number: WR17X4312
$302.62
In Stock
Auger and Ice Bucket Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(26)
Part #WR17X4312
This auger and bucket assembly is used on 25 cubic feet and 27 cubic feet side by side models.
Ice Dispenser Solenoid Service Kit – Part Number: WR62X23154
$106.80
In Stock
Ice Dispenser Solenoid Service Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(8)
Part #WR62X23154
This kit includes 1 cube solenoid, 1 armature, 2 tooth washers and 2 1/4 hex head screws.
Ice Bucket Auger – Part Number: WR17X4341
No Longer Available
Ice Bucket Auger
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★★★★★
(5)
Part #WR17X4341
When activated, the auger rotates and pushes ice out of the bin through the chute to the user.
Dispenser Grille – Part Number: WR17X4153
No Longer Available
Dispenser Grille
Part #WR17X4153
This white dispenser grill is located at the bottom of the ice/water dispenser.
Door Recess Retainer – Part Number: WR2X8818
$16.05
In Stock
ARMATURE KIT – Part Number: WR62X26536
$60.30
On Order
ARMATURE KIT
Part #WR62X26536
Ice Dispenser Plate – Part Number: WR17X2062
No Longer Available
Ice Dispenser Plate
Part #WR17X2062
Plastic Tube - 1/4 Inch – Part Number: WR17X11349
$16.05
Special Order

Common Symptoms of the ZISW42DCB

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Leaking water valve
8478 of 12456 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Centerville, OH
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed black cardboard covering on back of refrig with nut driver (6 screws), turned off water supply to pump, removed cooper waterline to pump with adjustable wrench, removed 1 screw holding pump to refrigerator, removed plastic waterline from pump by turning hose counter clockwise. Inserter plastic water line in new pump by screwing li ne in clockwise, pushed orange plastic stop around waterline into pump, connected cooper water line to pump first wrapping threads on pump with teflon plumbers tape, reinstalled pump to refrig and cardboard back on refrig with 6 screws.

One side note:.

This is the second pump which has burst at the blue plastic seam in seven years.
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Water dispenser did not work (ice-maker did work)
91 of 106 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alan from Houston, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
This is a side-by-side frige with water and ice dispenser in the left freezer door. I first checked for possible water line freezing in the freezer door or in the water chiller area (behind the vegetable drawers) as described in e-articles I had read, but this did not appear to be the problem. I found two solenoid valve pairs; one that routes dispenser or ice-maker water to the filter and the other that routes the water to the end device. I ran a couple of tests on the solenoid valves and found that the first inlet valve that sends water to the filter did not work, but the second valve that relays the water to the dispenser was still working. By temorarily connecting the wiring for the dispenser solenoid to the functioning ice-maker solenoid, I confirmed that the wiring and switch were working properly and that the problem must be the solenoid itself (it also still hummed when the dispenser button was pressed). The entire quad solenoid valve assembly can be pulled out after removing the one hex-screw on the back of the frige (the assembly is all held together with a bracket). I disconnected the wiring connector to the solenoid valves. I disconnected the plastic water tubing by pushing it toward the fitting and then depressing the tubing inlet ring to release the tubing. I removed the two screws holding the solenoid valve and replaced it.
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ice stalactites were drooling out of the icemaker and gumming up the cubes in the receiving tray.
91 of 132 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from Benicia, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I first shut off water flow to the fridge. Examination of the package (which was not exact in appearance to the original) demonstrated that the electrical connectors were well-insulated so I arrogantly and successfully proceded without disconnecting the power. My fridge is old enough that the model doesn't appear exactly on anyone's list so I wasn't alarmed that it took an extra 10 minutes or so to noodle out how to adapt the slightly different inlet cowling and electrical cord with extension, but the device is pretty simple.
Soon I loosened the two mounting screws with a nut driver, used a screwdriver to pry away the plastic snap-in housing over the electrical socket on the fridge inner wall and pulled away the electrical plug. The original water fill tube remained in its cavity, ready for re-use.
The new unit's mounting points matched the original screw locations perfectly, as did the fill cowling - which on the replacement icemaker has two possible attachment points. The new unit's electrical connector required an extension pigtail to adapt to my socket, but it was included in the package. The extra cable posed a minor cosmetic issue because it hangs in the collection basket a bit, but that will soon be remedied with a tie wrap.
After the water was restored and an anxious wait of a few hours, we had well-formed ice cubes that weren't all stuck together and the stalactites haven't reappeared.
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