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ZIS48NSB General Electric Refrigerator - Overview

Diagrams for ZIS48NSB

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LIGHT SWITCH – Part Number: WR23X37285
$38.32
In Stock
LIGHT SWITCH
★★★★★
★★★★★
(65)
Part #WR23X37285
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
1/4 Tubing Nut – Part Number: WR57X57
$15.00
Special Order
1/4 Tubing Nut
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #WR57X57
This is a quarter tubing nut and is sold individually. The tubing nut works in conjunction with your refrigerator/freezer and is made entirely of plastic. The function of this part is to connect the lines that supply water to your ice maker and water dispenser. The most common reason or needing to replace this part is if fluid is leaking from the water line to your icemaker or water dispenser. The tools you will need to make this repair include a nut driver, a pair of pliers, and a screwdriver set.
Plastic Tube - 1/4 Inch – Part Number: WR17X11349
$16.05
Special Order
De-Icing Kit – Part Number: WR49X10021
$398.30
In Stock
De-Icing Kit
Part #WR49X10021
This part should be installed by an appliance repair person as it could be dangerous. This part may be used to help prevent your evaporator fan from becoming blocked with ice. This part also insulates the evaporator coil area so you don't get a buildup of ice in the damper area.
BAFFLE EVAP FOAM – Part Number: WR17X3037
No Longer Available
BAFFLE EVAP FOAM
Part #WR17X3037
FAN ORIFICE – Part Number: WR17X3047
$325.40
Special Order
FAN ORIFICE
Part #WR17X3047
WINE RACK – Part Number: WR17X3364
No Longer Available
WINE RACK
Part #WR17X3364
Snack Pan – Part Number: WR32X1566
No Longer Available
Snack Pan
Part #WR32X1566
SNACK PAN FRONT Assembly – Part Number: WR71X2664
No Longer Available
SNACK PAN FRONT Assembly
Part #WR71X2664
FF RETURN AIR BAFFLE – Part Number: WR17X11193
No Longer Available
FF RETURN AIR BAFFLE
Part #WR17X11193
BAFFLE EVAP – Part Number: WR17X3039
No Longer Available
BAFFLE EVAP
Part #WR17X3039
BIN FF DOOR Assembly – Part Number: WR71X2427
No Longer Available
BIN FF DOOR Assembly
Part #WR71X2427

Common Symptoms of the ZIS48NSB

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Sticking Light Switch
122 of 178 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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during defrost cycle water dripped into freezer and froze all over ice bin
27 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bob from Aurora, IL
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the ice maker. Second I removed the back panel and overhead panel above ice maker. Third I pulled down the drip trough it had a styrofoam base under it. The trough heater had to be unplugged to remove the trough as well as the drain hose. Forth I seperated the styrofoam from the trough and peeled off the old heater whi ch had burn marks on the foil. Fifth I applied the new heater plugged it in and attached the drain hose to the trough. Last I reassembled the unit. Refridgerator works great now and it only cost $45.00 for the heater. The GE repair service quoted over $950.00 and did not list the trough heater as the problem so I would be spending more and would have required several repair visits.
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The refrigirator light would not come on.
26 of 44 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jania from Novato, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.
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