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ZET3058BH2BB General Electric Wall Oven - Overview

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Screw – Part Number: WH2X930
$16.05
In Stock
Screw
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★★★★★
(1)
Part #WH2X930
This screw is sold individually.
Diode – Part Number: WB27X10597
$59.47
In Stock
Diode
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WB27X10597
This part allows power to go one way only.
Halogen Bulb Kit – Part Number: WB49X29679
$61.40
In Stock
Halogen Bulb Kit
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★★★★★
(8)
Part #WB49X29679
This light bulb is used in the interior oven. NOTE: This bulb has looped pins, not the straight pins.
Broiler Pan - Large – Part Number: WB48X10056
$43.18
In Stock
Broiler Pan - Large
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★★★★★
(10)
Part #WB48X10056
This large broiler pan is found in the bottom of your oven and is used to catch drippings from broiling foods. This part includes the grate and bottom pan and is made of porcelain. The grate measures 15-1/2 inches wide by 13 inches deep and the pan is about 17 inches wide by 13 inches deep. No tools are required to replace this item, simply pull out the lower drawer of your range, pull down the front of the drawer, slide the pan out and slide the new one into place. This is a genuine part sourced right from the manufacturer.
Window Pack Assembly – Part Number: WB56T10105
$149.06
In Stock
Window Pack Assembly
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(15)
Part #WB56T10105
The GE Oven Door Window Pack Assembly is a genuine OEM part that fits select GE ranges and ovens. It includes a heat-resistant inner glass panel, frame, and seals, providing insulation and clear visibility into the oven cavity. Common issues like cracked glass or heat loss can indicate the need for a replacement. Ensure the oven is cool to the touch and wear gloves for safe installation.
Oven Rack – Part Number: WB48T10020
No Longer Available
Oven Rack
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★★★★★
(4)
Part #WB48T10020
This chrome oven rack is a genuine OEM replacement part for your oven. It measures 24 inches wide by 14 inches deep. This rack serves as a great replacement if your current rack is rusted, broken, or coated with burned food. Simply slide out your current rack and slide the new one into place.
Halogen Lamp - 35 Watt – Part Number: WB08T10023
$32.64
In Stock
Halogen Lamp - 35 Watt
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(3)
Part #WB08T10023
This halogen lamp bulb is a genuine OEM replacement part for your oven. If the light has burned out in your oven, replace it with this part. This is a 35 watt bulb. Replacing this bulb is fairly easy but will require pulling the oven out from the wall. Make sure to shut off power to the unit before beginning this repair.
Range Screw – Part Number: WB01T10008
$16.05
In Stock
Range Screw
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(2)
Part #WB01T10008
This part is a replacement screw for your oven. It is made of black metal and is sold individually. This screw is approximately 1/4 inch in diameter and about 1/2 inch in length. It is designed to connect the different parts of your oven door. This part is an authentic OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Convection Element – Part Number: WB44T10053
$79.29
In Stock
Lower Oven Door Gasket – Part Number: WB41T10003
$107.27
In Stock
LENS OVEN LAMP – Part Number: WB25T10027
$25.28
Special Order
NUT – Part Number: WB02T10017
$18.59
Special Order
NUT
Part #WB02T10017

Common Symptoms of the ZET3058BH2BB

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Not working as far as heating or cooking
151 of 361 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Theodore from Medical Lake, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replaced High Voltage Diode. Very carfully due to the extream danger of a electrical shock.
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Broken interior glass of oven door
22 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Frisco, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Followed instructions and removed door. Loosened screws/bolts. Pulled the door apart. Removed the bracket that would hold the glass. Removed the broken glass and inserted the replacement glass. Re-assembled the door and reinstalled the door. Took all of 20 mins.
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Microwave would run but not heat.
15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Devin from HERRIMAN, UT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
It wasn’t the magnetron.
It wasn’t the diode.
It wasn’t just the fuse.
It was the High Voltage Capacitor (HVC). You know, the very thing they warn you about when opening the microwave. Just remember to discharge it using needle-nose pliers before probing around to find the problem. I also suggest you invest in a multimeter so as not to waste hundreds of dollars like I did; that way you can go straight to the real problem instead of replacing symptoms. If you replace the HVC, you will also want to replace the two fuses right in front of it. Also, there is a wiring diagram and a troubleshooting flowchart tucked behind the front console near the top. It is extremely useful!
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