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XSS25GGPBCBB General Electric Refrigerator - Overview

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Ice Maker – Part Number: WR30X10093
$207.55
In Stock
Ice Maker
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★★★★★
(98)
Part #WR30X10093
This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white. This kit includes a set of installation instructions, a 4-pin round plug-in connector, 6 post plug-in connectors, tube and fill cup. The ideal temperature of a freezer is zero degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature in your freezer is at an appropriate level yet ice is still not being made, it could be an issue with the water inlet valve or your ice maker assembly. If you determine it is the ice maker, this is the replacement you need. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. Ice makers will need to be replaced every 3-10 years depending on the frequency of usage and water quality. This model is mounted on the freezer wall.
DOOR DAIRY – Part Number: WR71X38317
$42.47
In Stock
DOOR DAIRY
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★★★★★
(77)
Part #WR71X38317
This is the replacement dairy door for a refrigerator. It is installed on the inner door and rotates up and down to allow access to the dairy compartment. It is made of clear plastic. If your dairy door is cracked, broken, missing, or won't stay on, you may need to replace it. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
REFRIGERATOR DOOR LIGHT SWITCH – Part Number: WR23X31507
$18.37
In Stock
REFRIGERATOR DOOR LIGHT SWITCH
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★★★★★
(41)
Part #WR23X31507
This is the light switch that goes in your refrigerator. If the light is not working or stays on, you may need to replace the switch. It is made of mainly white plastic, and is an OEM part, directly from the manufacturer. Be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power source before you begin this repair. To remove the switch, simply use a flathead screwdriver to pop the switch out from the refrigerator wall, then disconnect the wires. Reconnect the wires to the new switch, snap it into place, and the repair is complete.
Compression Ring – Part Number: WR02X12149
$16.05
In Stock
Compression Ring
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(2)
Part #WR02X12149
This compression ring is meant to hold the evaporator fan motor in place in the freezer compartment of your refrigerator. This is is a genuine OEM part. The tools needed to complete this repair are a Phillips screw driver and small flat blade screw driver. Be sure to turn off your refrigerator before removing the evaporator fan cover so the fan does not turn on during repair. It is recommended to check the grommets, evaporator fan, and fan blades during repair in case they also need replacning. The compression ring may need replacing if the fan is noisy, or the refrigerator compartments are too warm. This part is sold individually.
SHELF MODULE FF – Part Number: WR71X38318
$55.05
In Stock
SHELF MODULE FF
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(66)
Part #WR71X38318
This door bin is for refrigerators and attaches to the inside of the refrigerator door and typically holds jars and bottles. Follow the instructions in the owner's manual for installing this part.
Middle Crisper Pan – Part Number: WR71X38328
$73.19
In Stock
Middle Crisper Pan
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(49)
Part #WR71X38328
Fruits and vegetable drawer.
Middle Pan Cover Frame - No Glass – Part Number: WR32X26246
$64.12
In Stock
Middle Pan Cover Frame - No Glass
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(48)
Part #WR32X26246
This refrigerator middle pan cover is a durable, precision-fit component designed to sit above the middle crisper or storage drawer. It provides structural support for items stored above while helping to maintain optimal humidity levels within the drawer below. Constructed from high-quality materials, it serves as a direct replacement for cracked, warped, or missing covers, restoring both functionality and appearance. Replacing this part helps preserve food freshness and ensures the refrigerator operates efficiently and remains well-organized.
Lid Bumper – Part Number: WR02X10540
$16.05
In Stock
Lid Bumper
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(2)
Part #WR02X10540
The lid bumper or evaporator fan motor bumper in your refrigerator prevents the fan motor from scraping against the side bracket. If your refrigerator/freezer is noisy, the bumper could be worn down or missing, and the sound could be a result of the motor scraping the side bracket. You will find it between the fan motor and the side bracket on the evaporator fan motor assembly. To access the bumper, you will need to remove the evaporator fan motor assembly from the freezer. This part is made of orange rubber and is less than half an inch in diameter. It has a rounded top and a slightly pointed bottom, and is sold individually.
Refrigerator Crisper Drawer – Part Number: WR32X32346
$87.76
In Stock
Refrigerator Crisper Drawer
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(43)
Part #WR32X32346
This part is the replacement bottom crisper drawer for your refrigerator. The crisper drawer is used to store food items, and because it is made of plastic, it can occasionally become cracked or broken. You may notice a leak from the bottom of the drawer, and this can indicate damage to the crisper drawer. To replace the drawer, simply slide the old one out, and replace it with the new one. This crisper is made of white and clear plastic and measures approximately 22 inches wide, 15 inches tall, and 19 inches deep. This part is sold individually and is designed for the bottom drawer of your refrigerator.
Run Capacitor – Part Number: WR55X24064
$61.39
In Stock
Run Capacitor
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(7)
Part #WR55X24064
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. This part has been updated by the manufacturer and may appear different than the original, but should function the same.
EVAPORATOR FAN BLADE – Part Number: WR60X30922
$78.38
In Stock
EVAPORATOR FAN BLADE
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Part #WR60X30922
This evaporator fan blade is for your refrigerator, and it circulates air so that the temperature of the fridge is regulated. This model has 3 blades, and is a little more than 4 inches in diameter. It is made of white plastic and is sold individually. If your refrigerator is noisy and you hear a clicking sound, it is a good indication that the evaporator fan blade is warped or damaged. If the fridge or freezer sections become too warm, the fan could be to blame as well.
Plastic Tubing - 5/16 Inch – Part Number: WR17X2891
$40.56
In Stock
Plastic Tubing - 5/16 Inch
Part #WR17X2891
This part is the replacement water line for your refrigerator. It is a long plastic tube, which is 5/16 of an inch in diameter. If your refrigerator is leaking, or will not dispense water or ice, you may have a damaged water line. When you replace the water line, you may want to pick up a new water tube union as well. You can use a utility knife to cut the old water line where it is damaged, and use the union to attach the new water line to the old one. This tubing is sold individually and is an OEM part.

Common Symptoms of the XSS25GGPBCBB

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Warm freezer and no ice
95 of 134 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from Suwanee, GA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
This story starts with a GE side-by-side refrigerator that has always had wide temperature swings and a temperamental water dispenser. The ice maker was not making ice, and the built in digital thermometer showed it was running warm. I suspected that the heat exchanger was full of dust and so looked there. What I found was that the con denser tank was hot to the touch and the fan wasn’t running. As an experiment, I aimed a fan at the it for a while I saw that the freezer temperature dropped back to normal.
.The fan is marked as 11.2 DC so I checked for voltage at the fan and found some. With three wires and no wiring diagram I wasn’t sure this answered all the questions, but hooking the fan to a 12 volt power supply didn’t get it to spin.
I priced parts at a couple websites before using partselect.com . They also have a good diagram to look at (Sears diagrams are really poor). I ordered the part with 2-day shipping; it arrived on time, was correct and fixed the problem.
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ice stalactites were drooling out of the icemaker and gumming up the cubes in the receiving tray.
91 of 132 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from Benicia, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I first shut off water flow to the fridge. Examination of the package (which was not exact in appearance to the original) demonstrated that the electrical connectors were well-insulated so I arrogantly and successfully proceded without disconnecting the power. My fridge is old enough that the model doesn't appear exactly on anyone's list so I wasn't alarmed that it took an extra 10 minutes or so to noodle out how to adapt the slightly different inlet cowling and electrical cord with extension, but the device is pretty simple.
Soon I loosened the two mounting screws with a nut driver, used a screwdriver to pry away the plastic snap-in housing over the electrical socket on the fridge inner wall and pulled away the electrical plug. The original water fill tube remained in its cavity, ready for re-use.
The new unit's mounting points matched the original screw locations perfectly, as did the fill cowling - which on the replacement icemaker has two possible attachment points. The new unit's electrical connector required an extension pigtail to adapt to my socket, but it was included in the package. The extra cable posed a minor cosmetic issue because it hangs in the collection basket a bit, but that will soon be remedied with a tie wrap.
After the water was restored and an anxious wait of a few hours, we had well-formed ice cubes that weren't all stuck together and the stalactites haven't reappeared.
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Ice maker stopped working
84 of 117 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dan from West Bloomfield, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
I unplugged the electrical connection. Then I removed the 2 screws holding the icemaker in place. I lifted out the old icemaker unit and put the new one in place. Then put the 2 screws back in and plugged in the new unit.

The icemaker started making ice very soon after turning the unit on.
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