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XSS23GGKPCBB General Electric Refrigerator - Overview

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Temperature Sensor – Part Number: WR55X10025
$30.53
In Stock
Temperature Sensor
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(69)
Part #WR55X10025
This sensor (Temperature Sensor, Thermistor, Refrigerator Temperature Sensor) sends the temperature reading of the compartment to the control board. If you notice your refrigerator is too warm, too cold, or not defrosting properly, then there may be a problem with your sensor. The temperature sensor can break from material fatigue or through normal use, and should be replaced. It is attached to the evaporator and control housing in your appliance. It measures approximately 1.25 inches long with 18 inch wire leads, and is constructed out of plastic. This part comes in white, beige. It includes the sensor, with wire leads.
Module Shelf Insert - Clear – Part Number: WR71X10761
$39.71
In Stock
Module Shelf Insert - Clear
★★★★★
★★★★★
(77)
Part #WR71X10761
The Module Shelf Insert is a complete assembly for the module shelf. This repair is rated as "Easy" by users. Simply remove the old shelf insert and snap the new one into place using the locking tabs. This part is used to hold items in the fridge, and if broken it should be replaced. Refer to your user manual and model number to ensure this part is right for you.
Defrost Heater Harness Kit – Part Number: WR51X10101
$69.02
In Stock
Defrost Heater Harness Kit
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(17)
Part #WR51X10101
This dual heater kit replaces the single heater. It's redesigned to use two heating elements for a better defrost cycle.
Dispenser Door Assembly or Flapper – Part Number: WR17X11653
$33.60
In Stock
Dispenser Door Assembly or Flapper
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★★★★★
(93)
Part #WR17X11653
This “Dispenser Door Assembly” (Door Recess Assembly, Ice Door Assembly, Dispenser Door, Refrigerator Dispenser Ice Chute Door Kit, Dispenser Door Flap, Ice Chute Door, Flapper) keeps the room air from infiltrating the freezer. Once the lever is pressed, the door flap opens and allows the ice to dispense into your container. If your door flapper is broken, it could allow outside air to enter the freezer and alter the inside temperature. You may notice frost buildup surrounding the dispenser area. The door flap can disconnect from the dispenser lever, or the tabs that hold it in place may break. Frequent use may distort the sealing face and cause air leaks and frost buildup. This part mounts in the ice dispenser, and measures approximately 3.25 inches in diameter. It is constructed of plastic and rubber, and comes in white/black. This part is sold individually.
Evaporator Fan Grommet - Red – Part Number: WR02X12008
$13.92
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Grommet - Red
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Part #WR02X12008
If you notice that your refrigerator or freezer is noisy or too warm, you may need to replace the evaporator fan grommet. This part is red in color, and is about 1 inch in diameter. The evaporator fan grommet is located behind the evaporator fan cover in the back of the freezer. You will need to remove the evaporator fan cover to access the evaporator fan and complete this repair. Before you begin this repair, ensure the power to the refrigerator is disconnected. You will need a pair of needle nose pliers, a small flat blade screw driver and both a 1/4 and 5/16-inch nut driver to complete this repair.
Dispenser Door Solenoid Assembly – Part Number: WR62X10055
$56.33
In Stock
Dispenser Door Solenoid Assembly
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(36)
Part #WR62X10055
This genuine OEM solenoid is designed for use with GE refrigerators and controls the opening and closing of the ice chute door. It serves as a direct replacement for a worn or faulty solenoid, helping to restore proper ice dispenser function. Constructed from durable metal, this part includes all necessary wiring for installation and is sold individually. Installation requires a Phillips screwdriver. Always refer to your appliance’s manual or diagram to ensure proper placement and compatibility before beginning the repair.
Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch – Part Number: WR02X11330
$15.00
In Stock
Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(11)
Part #WR02X11330
Quick connector for plastic water line - 5/16" to 5/16"
REFRIGERATOR DOOR LIGHT SWITCH – Part Number: WR23X31507
$18.37
In Stock
REFRIGERATOR DOOR LIGHT SWITCH
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★★★★★
(41)
Part #WR23X31507
This is the light switch that goes in your refrigerator. If the light is not working or stays on, you may need to replace the switch. It is made of mainly white plastic, and is an OEM part, directly from the manufacturer. Be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power source before you begin this repair. To remove the switch, simply use a flathead screwdriver to pop the switch out from the refrigerator wall, then disconnect the wires. Reconnect the wires to the new switch, snap it into place, and the repair is complete.
Refrigerator Water Filter – Part Number: XWFE
$82.74
In Stock
Refrigerator Water Filter
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(20)
Part #XWFE
This refrigerator water filter helps reduce chlorine taste, lead, and other listed impurities from drinking water and ice. It has a built-in chip that lets select refrigerators track filter use. Replace it about every six months or after 170 gallons, whichever comes first. Use the complete refrigerator model number to guarantee the proper fit. It can replace the older XWF filter in many models. No tools are usually needed. After installation, flush the filter with the amount of water listed in the owners manual.
Compression Ring – Part Number: WR02X12149
$16.05
In Stock
Compression Ring
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(2)
Part #WR02X12149
This compression ring is meant to hold the evaporator fan motor in place in the freezer compartment of your refrigerator. This is is a genuine OEM part. The tools needed to complete this repair are a Phillips screw driver and small flat blade screw driver. Be sure to turn off your refrigerator before removing the evaporator fan cover so the fan does not turn on during repair. It is recommended to check the grommets, evaporator fan, and fan blades during repair in case they also need replacning. The compression ring may need replacing if the fan is noisy, or the refrigerator compartments are too warm. This part is sold individually.
Water Tank Assembly – Part Number: WR17X11440
$54.95
In Stock
Water Tank Assembly
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(48)
Part #WR17X11440
This tank stores water until the water actuator is activated and water is requested.
Middle Crisper Pan – Part Number: WR71X38328
$73.19
In Stock
Middle Crisper Pan
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(49)
Part #WR71X38328
Fruits and vegetable drawer.

Questions And Answers for XSS23GGKPCBB

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Gary - For model number XSS23GGKPCBB
July 27, 2025
What Water Filter model fits this model of refrigerator?
Chris Boyle Profile
Hi Gary, thank you for your inquiry. The water filter, part number PS16217433, is compatible with your model number. Glad to be of help!
$82.74
In Stock
Refrigerator Water Filter
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Common Symptoms of the XSS23GGKPCBB

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Defrost Heater blows out, refrigerator frosts up, then stops cooling
409 of 435 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stuart from Lynchburg, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Disclaimer - if you aren't confident about doing this repair, call a repair specialist in. Also, take care not to damage the freezer coils as they have refrigerant in them that I'm told is harmful if it leaks. It may also be under pressure. The instructions that follow won't require you to touch the coils. There is no need to unplug the r efrigerator or disconnect the water supply to do this repair. The screw driver you will need is a phillips (the one withe the + head).

1st, take out your frozen food (which, if you need to do this repair may not be frozen) and put it in a cooler or the refrigerator.
2nd, remove the ice cube bucket and dump the ice cubes in the cooler to help keep the frozen food cool. Turn the ice cube maker off.
3rd, remove the freezer shelves.
4th, locate the panel covering the freezer coils. It's a panel at the back of the freezer. It hides the freezer coils and protects them from damage. It's held in place by two screws located at the top left and right corners of the panel.
5th, unscrew the screws holding the panel to the refrigerator.
6th, detach the clip at the top of the panel.
7th, remove the panel. You should see the coils now. The coils will be covered in frost if the defroster heater has failed. If the coils are not covered in frost, there may be another reason for the refrigerator failing to cool.
8th, even if the coils are covered in frost, you should also inspect the defroster heater at the bottom, underneath the coils. The business end of it is a long tube running horizontally between two wires. If it's black like a badly burned out light bulb, then it's failed. If the bulb appears fine, you may have a different reason for your refrigerator and freezer frosting up. We'll assume that the defroster heater has blown out, and proceed.
9th, place a towel at the bottom of the panel space, to soak up any water that melts and runs down. There is a drain under the coils. It collects water that melts during the defrost cycle, but I'd rather mop up the water instead of relying on the drain.
10th, use hot air blowing from the hair dryer to defrost the coils. Just play the air from the hair dryer over the coils, starting at the top, and working down. The frost will quickly melt and the water will be soaked up by the towels. If you want things to go faster, you can throw hot water on the coils to melt them faster, but that produces more water to mop up, and makes a big mess. It's also dangerous to have water lying around if you then decide to use the hair dryer to continue defrosting the coils.
11th. MOST IMPORTANT. Don't use your screwdriver or any other sharp object to pick away at the frost on the coils. If you damage the coils the refrigerant could leak out. I'm told that it's dangerous stuff. Furthermore, I expect that you'd have to buy a new refrigerator if you damaged the coils.
12th, once you've defrosted the coils, locate the defroster heater and bracket assembly again. It's held in place by two screws, and has two insulated wires running into it on either side. Unscrew the screws, disconnect the wires and remove the assembly. Throw it away - there are no useful parts in it.
13th, install the new defroster heater and bracket assembly by connecting the wires to it, mounting it back into its place, and rescrewing the screws.
14th, put the panel back in place, replace the clip, and screw the panel back in place.
15th, turn the ice cube maker back on and replace the ice cube bucket and shelves. Put your food back into the freezer.
16th, use the freezer and refrigerator as normal. If the defroster heater fails again (I'm on my third one in less than six years), you'll notice frost building up on the panel at the back of the freezer before your freezer and refrigerator stops cooling. The frost build up is your signal to defrost the freezer and buy another defroster heater and bracket assembly. I don't know why this part is so weak, and don't know any fix except to keep replacing it.
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my refigerator was warm but the freezer was cold and working correcttly
305 of 404 people found this instruction helpful.
  • michele from North Smithfield, RI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.

I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
... Read more />After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.

I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.
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refrigerator was getting too cold
149 of 218 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Larry from Menomonie, WI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
I removed the old temperature sensor by cutting the wires. I attached the wires of the new sensor with wire nuts and mounted it in the same bracket.
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