The bake element in your oven provides the cooking heat. This part can be found at the bottom of your oven, and attaches to the power source on the back wall. It has two terminals that fit into the power source receptacle. This part is made of metal, and is approximately 20 inches in length and 18 inches in width. This product is sold ind...Read moreividually. Many of our customers have rated this repair as easy. To complete this repair, simply lift the old element up and out of your oven, and replace it with the new one. Be sure to disconnect power from the oven before you begin this repair.
This burner bowl is also known as a burner drip bowl or burner drip pan, and is designed for use with your cooktop or range. It is black in color and is approximately 6 inches in diameter. It can be found beneath the element and catches spills. If your old burner bowl is damaged or missing, you may need to replace it with this part.
The 8-inch surface element switch is also known as an infinite heat switch, and is a part for your range. It controls the large surface element. It will turn the element on and off, and allow you to change the heat intensity. The knob to adjust the heat setting mounts on the shaft of this swtich. The burner knob is sold separately. If you...Read morer large surface element will not turn on, or you cannot adjust the heat intensity, you may have a broken or damaged surface burner switch. Be sure you disconnect your range from the power source before you begin this repair.
The temperature sensor, also known as the oven temperature sensor assembly is usually found in the back of the oven. The function of the oven temperature sensor assembly is to measure the temperature inside your oven while it is on and send the temperature back up to the electronic control, which adjusts as necessary. If your oven is havi...Read moreng difficulty achieving warmer temperatures and/or keeping warmer temperatures up, you may want to test your temperature sensor. Before you make this repair remember to unplug your range from the power source, and turn off the gas shut off valve.
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually.
It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
This electronic control board is the central component of your wall oven, managing functions such as temperature regulation and heating elements. The manufacturer has modified the wiring on this part, so professional installation may be necessary for proper setup. Before installation, shut off the circuit breaker or unplug the oven for sa...Read morefety. This genuine OEM part ensures optimal oven performance and compatibility with select models.
This genuine GE drawer support is an original replacement part sourced from the manufacturer and is designed for use with electric ranges. Made of durable plastic, it attaches to the rear of the drawer and provides stable support by securing the rear side in place. This part includes the necessary mounting screw for installation and is so...Read moreld individually. It’s a simple yet essential component for maintaining smooth drawer operation and proper alignment.
This is an authentic GE oven rack, sourced directly from the manufacturer. It is made of metal, and provides a stable surface for cookware inside the oven. If your current oven rack is damaged or missing, simply lift it up gently to slide it out. Insert the new rack, ensuring it is level.
This part is the replacement light socket for your oven. The oven light socket provides power to the light, and at the same time holds the light bulb in place.
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oven element burned itself up
270 of 294 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Dennis from Bondville, VT
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers, Socket set
Turned off circuit breaker to range. Removed the 2 oven racks. Removed two screws in back of oven compartment. Pulled element forward and the terminal connections get exposed. The right terminal clip disconnected by itself and the wire went back into the stove and could not be retrieved. Removed range draw under the oven an
... Read mored pulled entire range out from wall about 4 feet.. Removed metal backing with a socket wrench and exposed the oven element wires and terminals. Reinstalled new element and metal backing. Since range was out from wall, cleaned and vacuumed before pushing stove back in place. Since range draw was out re-leveled by setting adjustable feet. Reinstalled drawer and racks. Turned on circuit breaker. Tested element by setting bake cycle on.
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The baking assembly in the oven burst into flames one day, then broke apart.
142 of 152 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Theresa from Sherman, TX
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver, Pliers
After the element cooled down, I pulled the racks out of the oven, turned off the oven at the breaker box, then, using a nut driver, loosened the screws that held the baking assembly in the back of the oven, and pulled the connecting wires off. I bent the wires to make sure they would stay out, because if they get back in the insulation,
... Read morethey are hard to find. I would recommend getting a pair of locking pliers and putting them on the ends of the wires just to keep them from getting back into the insulation. Then I attached the left connection wire and then the right one, pushed them back into the insulation, tightened the baking assembly to the back wall of the oven, turned it back on at the breaker box, then tested the oven to see if it heated up. It did. Total repair time 15 -20 minutes. Would have been less if I didn't have to chase one of the wires back in the insulation. Shamless plug for the company ...By paying extra for 2-day shipping to receive the part, I saved just over $20 from buying it at Sears, which would have had to order the part anyway.
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Oven would go in to a F2 Error
148 of 226 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Peter from stamford, CT
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver
Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.