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WNRD2050DW General Electric Washer - Overview

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DAMPENING STRAP 2PACK – Part Number: WH01X39337
$39.42
Special Order
DAMPENING STRAP 2PACK
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★★★★★
(38)
Part #WH01X39337
The tub dampening straps support the wash tub and reduce vibration by keeping the tub at the center of the cabinet. If your washer shakes and moves, or is making a loud banging noise during the wash cycle, the washing machine tub could be off-balance, meaning one or more of these straps may be loose, or broken. Other symptoms include: the washer leaking, not agitating, or pumping but not spinning. These straps are sold individually. However, we recommend that you replace all 4 straps at the same time. It is also recommended that you check the tub for cracks where these straps mount.
Dual Action Agitator – Part Number: WH43X10034
$60.28
In Stock
Dual Action Agitator
★★★★★
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(120)
Part #WH43X10034
This is a dual-action agitator for a washer. It is an OEM replacement part that is sourced from the manufacturer. The agitator tosses your clothes to clean them efficiently. This plastic dual-action agitator is white in color. It is approximately 18 inches tall with a base diameter of about 12 1/4 inches. No tools are required for this repair. Your agitator has eight tabs that fasten on the drive block of your washer, which is driven by the transmission. This part does not include the agitator coupling kit, which is frequently purchased at the same time as the agitator.
Drain Pump and Motor Assembly – Part Number: WH23X10030
$61.55
In Stock
Drain Pump and Motor Assembly
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(39)
Part #WH23X10030
This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time. If you notice that your washing machine will not drain, there is a good chance that you will have to replace the drain pump. The drain pump is located inside the washing machine, near the bottom. To access the drain pump for this repair, you will need to remove the front panel. Before you begin this repair, be sure that the power source is disconnected and the water source is shut off.
Tub Seal – Part Number: WH02X10383
$22.24
In Stock
Tub Seal
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(18)
Part #WH02X10383
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. Its the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. If your washer is leaking during the fill cycle, or at agitation time, your tub seal may need to be replaced. You can check if the tub seal needs to be replaced by watching that area during an actual fill cycle. Take off the front panel, or if it is a front-loading washer, the rear panel. Without touching the washing machine, observe the place where the shaft of the transmission comes into the tub and the weep holes at the housing of the rear bearing. If there is water leaking, the tub seal is at fault. NOTE: This seal is difficult to replace and should probably be installed by a qualified technician.
Washer Drain Hose Clip – Part Number: WH16X513
$16.05
In Stock
Washer Drain Hose Clip
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #WH16X513
This drain hose support clip is a piece for your washer. The purpose of the drain hose support clip is to hold the drain hose in place by attaching to a cabinet. This piece is off-white and is roughly 3.5 inches long, almost 2.5 inches wide, and less than half an inch thick. To install this piece onto your washing machine you will need a quarter-inch nut driver. Before starting this repair, make sure to disconnect the power source to your washer, as well as the inlet fill hoses.
Dual Water Inlet Valve – Part Number: WH13X10024
$95.16
Special Order
Dual Water Inlet Valve
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(29)
Part #WH13X10024
This water inlet valve attaches the water lines to the back of your appliance. The attaching solenoids on the valve open and close according to the desired temperature, or amount of water needed.
Tub Bearing Washer – Part Number: WH2X1197
$16.05
In Stock
Tub Bearing Washer
Part #WH2X1197
This is a tub bearing and it is meant to work in conjunction with your washing machine. The purpose of this part is to aid in keeping the inner tub of your washing machine spinning smoothly during a wash cycle. The most common reasons for needing to change your tub bearing is if your appliance is noisy or shaking/moving during the wash cycle, another common symptom is leaking water. This part is sold individually and measures to have an inner diameter of roughly 1 inch, and an outer diameter of roughly 2 inches.
Split Ring – Part Number: WH02X10265
No Longer Available
Split Ring
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(9)
Part #WH02X10265
This split ring is supplied by the original equipment manufacturer, and it is designed to secure the tub bearing in washing machines. It is a circular metal ring, with an outer diameter of 2 inches. The ring has a split or gap, which allows it to expand and contract for easy installation and removal. It is typically located on the inner side of the washing machine outer tub, where it provides stability and prevents the washer from excessively shaking during use. It is normal for the split ring to become worn, corroded, or damaged due to age, exposure to moisture, and excessive stress. A faulty split ring will lead to a noisy, unstable washer and eventually cause the tub assembly to fall out of alignment. Remove the washer panels to access the outer tub and split ring. Carefully detach the damaged split ring from the tub and position the new split ring in its place. Ensure that it is properly aligned and securely fastened before reattaching the panels.
Hub Nut – Part Number: WH2X1193
$26.66
In Stock
Hub Nut
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(6)
Part #WH2X1193
This part is the hub nut, or lock down nut for your washing machine. It is designed to hold the inner tub on to the transmission. If your hub nut is stripped or damaged, it may need to be replaced. This hub nut is approximately 1.5 inches in diameter. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. You will need a hub nut wrench and some WD40 to loosen the nut and remove it from the agitator shaft.
Tub Bearing – Part Number: WH2X1198
$43.94
In Stock
Tub Bearing
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(3)
Part #WH2X1198
This tub bearing goes in your washing machine. You will find it on the bottom of the outer tub, where the transmission goes through the tub. If you hear metal on metal when the washer is spinning, you may need to replace the tub bearing. This bearing is made of metal, and is approximately 3 inches wide and 2 inches tall.
Hub Washer – Part Number: WH2X1199
$15.00
In Stock
Hub Washer
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(3)
Part #WH2X1199
This is a replacement hub washer for your washing machine. If your washer is noisy, leaking, shaking, or pumping without spinning, you may need to replace the hub washer. The hub washer is found under the washer tub, beneath the split ring. You will need to remove the tub to access it. Before doing so you should disconnect the power and water sources from washer. The washer is made of metal and is a little more than an inch in diameter. It is sold individually, and is an OEM part.
Pump to Tub Inlet Drain Hose – Part Number: WH41X22935
$27.85
In Stock
Pump to Tub Inlet Drain Hose
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(8)
Part #WH41X22935
This replacement inlet drain hose connects your washer's water pump to its tub. This hose is seven and a half inches in length and only two inches wide.

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Washing Machine was not draining water from tub.
304 of 334 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from Midlothian, VA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
1. Drained the wash tub by taking the drain hose from the back of the washing machine and dropping it below the tub - water flowed out of hose a lot easier than trying to suck water out of tub using a pump (tried this on the first time I tried to fix washer). (Washing machine on 2nd floor of house and didn't want water running on floor)< br />2. Removed the 2 bolts holding the Pump/Motor assembly to the machine.
3. Removed both hose clamps on the Pump/Motor assembly and removed Pump.
4. Attached the new drain inlet hose to the pump and then to the tub with the original hose clamps.
5. Attached the drain hose to the pump and then plugged in the 2 wires for the pump.
6. Plugged in the washing machine and everything worked.

NOTES:
1. Hardest part was working with hose clamps (spring type clamps) in the tight space under the machine.
2. Easier to fix since I pulled machine apart a few days before - removing the clog in the pump/motor assembly only to get everything back together to find out that the motor was dead. Still well worth the time and effort due to not having to go out and buy a new Machine...
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machine would not drain all other functions seemed o.k
88 of 92 people found this instruction helpful.
  • douglas from danby, VT
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
Aside from getting the wet clothes and most of the water out,the toughest part of the job for me was to figure out how to get inside the machine. I nearly wrecked the thing trying to lift the top panel. After some frustration I removed the star-type screws on back of the control panel and found, tucked away neatly, the documentation/parts list complete with instructions on how to remove the FRONT panel. Once I got inside it was easy to locate the pump. I ran the drain cycle for a moment to see if the pump turned at all. The original had an exposed fan so it was easy to see that indeed the motor was not turning. I inspected all the hose and electrical connections to make sure I had the tools I'd need and the savvy to replace the part(s) if I could locate them. I'm not much of a web-head, so I was a little surprised when I typed G.E. appliances and the search took me to partselect.com where I was pretty much coached through the procedure before I even ordered the part. The box arrived ahead of schedule (yay) and when I looked at the pump it didn't look much like the one I was replacing. But then I realized it was the same thing just ten years more advanced. I used a small pair of vise grips to pinch and lock the pipe clamps open. I know there is a plier made for this, but... Anyways, after loosening the clamps and sliding them away from the pump I pulled the hoses off and let the last of the rinse water still in them run down my shirt sleeve to my elbow. (optional, not recommended) Thus refreshed I then rummaged through my socket set and found what I needed to remove the 2 sheet metal mounting screws and disconnected the 2 power leads. I removed the faulty pump and proudly showed it to my wife. Unimpressed, she asked how much longer. I quickly reversed the procedure to install the new unit and confidently piled in a load of laundry. The cycle completed just fine and has done so since. I will and have recommmended partselect.com to friends and will use it again for sure.
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Bearing on the transmission to tub wore out (mostly due to the washer not being level)
89 of 106 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Victor from League City, TX
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
The back of the control panel had an instruction pamplet that was very useful. 2 parts did not go as written tho. To "pop" the spinner out, required short 1x4s and a shake/shingle bar to pry it up and the wedging of the 1x4s under it, until enough strain was put on it to "pop" it off. Then the large 1&11/16 nut was a bear. It require d a short pipe wrench (so it fit in the tub) and a hammer to brake it loose.
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