The hinge is mounted on the front of the washer, and the door is installed onto the hinge. When the hinge on a washing machine is broken or bent the door may not swing properly, and it may not close. If your door will not close your washer will not run, so you will need to replace the hinge on your appliance. Make sure you save the white ...Read moreplastic cap bushings from the old hinge, as you will need to install those on your new hinge, they are not included. This hinge is made of metal, and the screws you will need install it are included.
This is a bellow assembly, also known as a door boot gasket kit, and it is designed for use with front load washers. This gasket acts as the main seal between the door of the washing machine and the wash tub. This seal might wear out over time, or it might be damaged, resulting in water leaking from around the door during the wash cycle. ...Read moreIf you notice leaks coming from the door it may be time to replace the door boot gasket on your washer. This kit includes the seal, the front and rear spring clamps, and installation instructions.
Front-loading washing machines use a suspension system to support the tub during the wash cycle. This suspension system is only designed to handle a certain amount of movement, so when you are transporting or moving the machine you will need shipping bolts to hold the tub in place. Using shipping bolts will help you limit any potential da...Read moremage that can be done to the suspension system during transport. This shipping bolt is comprised of three pieces, the bolt, the washer and the sleeve. You will need four of these bolts to hold the tub of your front load washer in place for moving.
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Hinge bracket snapped off
16 of 21 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
James from ALEXANDRIA, VA
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers
Removed washing machine door. Then removed old hinge. Replaced with the new hinge. Replaced door. SPECIAL NOTE: Do not lose white plastic rings that cover hinge nipples on washer. The replacement part does not come with these 4 pieces.
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The sleeves on this model washer are two different sizes see below
5 of 5 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
David from ENTERPRISE, AL
Very Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers
The thickness of the sleeves are 3.0 mm thick on the base of the sleeve. However the sleeve on the bottom of both the upper and lower hinges of this model washer are different sizes. The base of the sleeve on the top of each hinge post is 3.0 mm but the sleeve on the bottom post of each hinge is only 1.2 mm thick. The bracket on the d
... Read moreoor that holds all 4 screws to attach the door to the washer will not fit unless you reuse the old sleeve from the lower posts or reduce the thickness of the disc on the lower post to 1.2 mm. I spent hours trying to get the door back on and finally saw why I couldn't get the screws back in because the bracket could not go in place and sit flush the the washer.
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Old bellows was torn and needed to be replaced as the washing machine leaked.
4 of 4 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Melvin from ANTELOPE, CA
Difficult
More than 2 hours
Pliers, Screw drivers
This was my first time performing repairs on this machine. I work in the engineering field and consider myself as having at least some mechanical aptitude. The included instructions contained references to the disassembly of the reservoirs. This did not apply to my washer. I was able to find a youtube video which was not si
... Read moregnificantly helpful. Be prepared to keep track of parts removed and hardware. Disassembly requires disassembly and removal of washer door. Further disassembly was required to adequately access the part to be replaced. This includes removal of two large weights which improved access. I removed the damaged bellows. The two spring-loaded clamps are way easier to remove than to install. I gently set the new part in place to ensure I had the right part which seems to be easily damaged. Securing the inner spring-loaded clamp was difficult as the new bellows needs to be installed in a specific orientation (it needs to be "keyed") and is quite floppy and pops out of position easily. I'd recommend an additional pair of hands or two. Careful usage of multiple "C" clamps may be helpful, as well. Use caution as to not pinch fingers or trap tools. The spring of the spring-loaded clamp is quite strong. I used two pairs of locking pliers to grab the eyelets at each end of the spring. The more you can extend the spring for 10+ seconds - without breaking it - the better. It will likely take multiple attempts to apply the spring-loaded clamp when the bellows is in the correct position. Make extra sure the bellows is fully seated, in the correct alignment and that the inner spring-loaded clamp is in the correct position. Partially reassemble the washer to the point where the large front plate is installed. Reassembly and attachment of the door is optional at this point It is it's own bundle of joy to reassemble and adjust. I saved it for last. Securing the outer spring-loaded clamp was difficult as the achieving proper seal seating while installing the outer spring-loaded clamp was difficult. It is at least as difficult as installing the innerspring-loaded clamp as it seemed to be more likely that the seals of the bellows would pop out of place while working with it. Again, make extra sure the bellows is fully seated, in the correct alignment and that the outer spring-loaded clamp is in the correct position. After assembly and attachment of the door it was misaligned (the latching bar of the door collided with the latching mechanism in the large front plate). It required further disassembly and reassembly of the door to achieve proper alignment. I ran a load of wash and no leaking.