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WF448AAP (XAC) Samsung Washer - Overview

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Drain Pump Assembly - 120V 60Hz – Part Number: DC31-00054A
$190.31
Special Order
Drain Pump Assembly - 120V 60Hz
★★★★★
★★★★★
(19)
Part #DC31-00054A
This is a 120 volt, 60 hertz drain pump assembly for a washing machine. It is a genuine OEM part. This pump helps expel water from the washing machine, and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time during the spin cycle. You may need to replace the pump assembly if your washer is not draining properly; it could be clogged or damaged. Be sure to disconnect the water supply and power to your appliance before repairing. This part is located at the rear of the washer behind the back panel.
Hex Head Bolt – Part Number: DC60-40137A
$16.45
In Stock
Hex Head Bolt
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #DC60-40137A
This part is used for the shaft on the rear of the tub and is sold individually. The head bolt is part of the spider arm assembly, and they are generally changed at the same time. If you are replacing the entire spider arm assembly, make sure you order as many hex bolts as you will need. The spider arm assembly contains 6 of these hex bolts. The hex bolt or spider arm assembly may need to be replaced if you notice that your inner tub is going out of balance. The hex bolt measures 1.5 by 0.5 inches.
Shock Damper Front – Part Number: DC66-00470A
$70.30
In Stock
Shock Damper Front
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #DC66-00470A
This is an individually sold front shock absorber designed for use with Samsung dryers. Shock absorbers are used to distribute the weight of the dryer drum evenly and ensure that the different bumps and bounces that occur during the drying cycle are smoothed and counter acted. A broken shock absorber is noticeable by the amount of noise your dryer will make during operation. Replacing this absorber and its rear counterpart may even be necessary to the lifespan of the other dryer parts, so be sure to inspect both absorbers before ordering. To install this OEM shock absorber in your dryer, you will need to disassemble the dryer, which requires a screwdriver and wrench.
Outer Seal Clamp – Part Number: DC97-04973B
$14.25
On Order
Outer Seal Clamp
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
Part #DC97-04973B
This is an outer seal clamp for the washer door boot of your Samsung washing machine. This clamp tightly seals the boot of the drum within the door of the washer to prevent leaks. This clamp is made of metal and features a spring in the middle, but over time can be worn down or break, and result in water leaking out of the washing machine and into your home. Replacing this clamp will require a screwdriver, pliers, and safety gloves. This clamp is an OEM part that comes individually, without any other parts or accessories.
Door Switch Assembly – Part Number: DC64-00519B
$46.91
In Stock
Door Switch Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #DC64-00519B
This is a door switch assembly designed for Samsung washing machines. This door switch assembly is used to latch and lock the door shut before the washing cycle commences and communicates with the control board when that is done. If your washer door is not locking or latching properly, the door switch is likely bad or broken and will need to be replaced. To replace this assembly, you will need a flat-head and Philips-head screwdriver. This part is a genuine OEM switch assembly and is sold individually, without any wire harnesses or securing screws.
Water Valve – Part Number: DC62-30314K
$94.30
In Stock
Water Valve
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #DC62-30314K
One solenoid valve for hot water
Tapping Screw – Part Number: 6002-000213
$6.40
In Stock
Tapping Screw
Part #6002-000213
Fixer Tub Assembly – Part Number: DC97-14489R
$56.14
In Stock
Fixer Tub Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #DC97-14489R
Shipping bolts are installed through the back of the washing machine, and hold the wash tub and basket in place while your washer is being transported. The tub suspension holds the tub correctly in place during the wash, rinse, and spin cycles. If this suspension is damaged during shipping, the tub can shake and move, tilt to one side, or spin incorrectly. This could lead to the suspension or motor failing. When moving your washer, it is suggested that you insert the shipping bolts back into place before moving the machine. This part is also called a washer transit bolt. Remember that this part is sold separately, and to check your model to see how many you require.
Oil Seal – Part Number: DC62-00156A
$47.88
In Stock
Oil Seal
Part #DC62-00156A
Washer Bolt Assembly – Part Number: DC97-02412A
$23.63
In Stock
Washer Bolt Assembly
Part #DC97-02412A
Assembly BOLT;SWF-P12,MOTOR/
Water Temperature Thermistor – Part Number: DC90-10128N
$48.95
In Stock
Water Temperature Thermistor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #DC90-10128N
The thermistor monitors and helps regulator the water temperature in the washer.
Tapping Screw – Part Number: 6002-000520
$6.40
In Stock
Tapping Screw
Part #6002-000520
This manufacturer-approved screw is for refrigerators, including Kenmore refrigerator model. Avoid cross-threading refrigerator screw during installation.

Common Symptoms of the WF448AAP

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Code indicating washer was NOT discharging water
11 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • SCOTT from VERNAL, UT
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Watched the video, procedure was simple and as depicted on the video. Started by using a wet shop Vac to the discharge hose and sucked as much dirty wash water out as possible. Removed the pump,and found the motor did not turn freely. Removed the motor (3 screws) and replaced the motor with new part. Reassembled the washer, everything wor ked as it should. After about 3-4 loads of laundry, the "Not Draining" code / problem returned. Again, sucked out the water with the Shop Vac. Checked the Filter /Cleanout and found it completely packed with MUD. Cleaned that out, and again disassembled the washer. The pump was removed and the remaining muddy gunk was cleaned from the impeller. The 3 drain lines that attached to the pump were inspected for blockage/obstruction and flushed of any muddy residue. Reassembly was quick and easy, and the washer has worked well since. I have no idea how the dirt got into the system with enough dirt to gunk up the system. Recommend keeping more frequent inspections of the cleanout trap.
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The washing would stop in mid cycle and the door would be locked.
6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Arthur from WILLARD, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
An initial issue was getting the door to unlock. I tired several things but finally was able to pull the door as if to open it and put something between the door handle and the front of the washer while I ran a washer cycle. There is a way to take the washer top off and reach down inside the unit and pull down on a release, but I did no t try that.

The washer has a rubber boot between the washer frame and the wash tub. There is a metal wire ring that secures the outer edge of the boot to the washer frame. Peel back the outer edge of the boot at the bottom to reveal a metal ring that has its ends connected by a small spring. Use a flat tip screw drive to pry this ring off. Peel back the boot from the washer frame.

Next use a Phillips screw drive to remove the two screws that protrude through the wash frame on the right side of the door.

Reach between the washer tub and the frame and the tub and pull the switch through the opening and the washer tub. You will have to wiggle the switch around to remove it. There are three sets of wires attached to the switch by plugs.

The switch is covered with a plastic protective cover. Remove this. You will have to use a screw driver to release various catches to do this.

Remove the three set of wires. There are catches that secure the wire plugs in place. pry them back with a small screw drive.

Attach the new switch to the sets of wires.

Attach the protective cover to the switch. The wires feed through a small slot toward the bottom of the switch.

Slide the switch through the opening where you removed it. and re-attach it using the two screws.

Put the rubber boot in the channel in the washer frame. Replace the metal ring. This was the most challenging part of the repair for me. I had to play around with this to get it into position. You have to work it around the gasket and stretch out the spring.

By the way, The service was great and exceeded by expectations.
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The drain check valve leaked
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • scott from DEERFIELD, OH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The part did not fit this model. The flap part fit the hole but the seal ring is too big. I cut 1\4inch out and used super glue the make it small enough to fit and seal the hose. Make sure you only use a drop of glue and keep the seal even and flat so it will seal
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