The tub dampening straps support the wash tub and reduce vibration by keeping the tub at the center of the cabinet. If your washer shakes and moves, or is making a loud banging noise during the wash cycle, the washing machine tub could be off-balance, meaning one or more of these straps may be loose, or broken. Other symptoms include: the...Read more washer leaking, not agitating, or pumping but not spinning. These straps are sold individually. However, we recommend that you replace all 4 straps at the same time. It is also recommended that you check the tub for cracks where these straps mount.
The agitator coupler connects the agitator to the agitator shaft. Common symptoms of a damaged coupler include: a grinding sound during the wash cycle, the washer refusing to agitate or spin, or the washing machine shakes and moves during the wash cycle. Unplug the washer and pull the agitator straight up. Remove the bolt that holds the c...Read moreoupler onto the shaft of the transmission and pull the coupler off. Be sure to clean any dirt, rust, or residue off the transmission spline grooves, and make sure the grooves on the agitator splines are clean and undamaged. We recommend using the gasket and bolt that come with the replacement coupling.
This is a dual-action agitator for a washer. It is an OEM replacement part that is sourced from the manufacturer. The agitator tosses your clothes to clean them efficiently. This plastic dual-action agitator is white in color. It is approximately 18 inches tall with a base diameter of about 12 1/4 inches. No tools are required for this re...Read morepair. Your agitator has eight tabs that fasten on the drive block of your washer, which is driven by the transmission. This part does not include the agitator coupling kit, which is frequently purchased at the same time as the agitator.
This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time. If you notice that your washing machine will not drain, there is a good chance that you will have to replace the drain pump. The drain pump is located inside the washing machine, near the bottom. To acces...Read mores the drain pump for this repair, you will need to remove the front panel. Before you begin this repair, be sure that the power source is disconnected and the water source is shut off.
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. Its the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. If your washer is leaking during the fill cycle, or at agitation time, your tub seal may need to be replaced. You can check if the tub seal needs to be replaced by watching that area during an ac...Read moretual fill cycle. Take off the front panel, or if it is a front-loading washer, the rear panel. Without touching the washing machine, observe the place where the shaft of the transmission comes into the tub and the weep holes at the housing of the rear bearing. If there is water leaking, the tub seal is at fault.
NOTE: This seal is difficult to replace and should probably be installed by a qualified technician.
This V-shaped drive belt is 29 1/2 inches long x 1/2-inch-wide, and fits both front-load and top-load washing machines. When belts are worn or frayed, they are known to make noise. If you have a top-load washer, a drive belt may be connecting the transmission to the drive motor. It would generally be a rubber V-belt covered in fabric to a...Read morellow free movement. Or it could be a rubber belt aided by a tensioning device like an idler pulley, to stop the motor from causing too much friction to the belt. For front-loaders, the drive belt goes between the drive motor and the wash basket. If your drive belt is worn or frayed, it should be replaced straight away. After replacing the drive belt, run a wash cycle to ensure the belt is correctly fitted.
This drain hose support clip is a piece for your washer. The purpose of the drain hose support clip is to hold the drain hose in place by attaching to a cabinet. This piece is off-white and is roughly 3.5 inches long, almost 2.5 inches wide, and less than half an inch thick. To install this piece onto your washing machine you will need a ...Read morequarter-inch nut driver. Before starting this repair, make sure to disconnect the power source to your washer, as well as the inlet fill hoses.
This water inlet valve attaches the water lines to the back of your appliance. The attaching solenoids on the valve open and close according to the desired temperature, or amount of water needed.
This is a tub bearing and it is meant to work in conjunction with your washing machine. The purpose of this part is to aid in keeping the inner tub of your washing machine spinning smoothly during a wash cycle. The most common reasons for needing to change your tub bearing is if your appliance is noisy or shaking/moving during the wash cy...Read morecle, another common symptom is leaking water. This part is sold individually and measures to have an inner diameter of roughly 1 inch, and an outer diameter of roughly 2 inches.
This split ring is supplied by the original equipment manufacturer, and it is designed to secure the tub bearing in washing machines. It is a circular metal ring, with an outer diameter of 2 inches. The ring has a split or gap, which allows it to expand and contract for easy installation and removal. It is typically located on the inner s...Read moreide of the washing machine outer tub, where it provides stability and prevents the washer from excessively shaking during use. It is normal for the split ring to become worn, corroded, or damaged due to age, exposure to moisture, and excessive stress. A faulty split ring will lead to a noisy, unstable washer and eventually cause the tub assembly to fall out of alignment. Remove the washer panels to access the outer tub and split ring. Carefully detach the damaged split ring from the tub and position the new split ring in its place. Ensure that it is properly aligned and securely fastened before reattaching the panels.
This part is the hub nut, or lock down nut for your washing machine. It is designed to hold the inner tub on to the transmission. If your hub nut is stripped or damaged, it may need to be replaced. This hub nut is approximately 1.5 inches in diameter. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. You will need a hub nut wrench and some WD40 to loosen the nut and remove it from the agitator shaft.
This is a replacement hub washer for your washing machine. If your washer is noisy, leaking, shaking, or pumping without spinning, you may need to replace the hub washer. The hub washer is found under the washer tub, beneath the split ring. You will need to remove the tub to access it. Before doing so you should disconnect the power and w...Read moreater sources from washer. The washer is made of metal and is a little more than an inch in diameter. It is sold individually, and is an OEM part.
See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory!View More
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
broken dampening strap and loose agitator
286 of 308 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
molly from laguna niguel, CA
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Nutdriver, Socket set
first remove the front washer cover by finding the two pressure clips that hold it to the top lid. gently push the putty knife into the clips one at a time. this will raise and separate them from the front panel. the panel will tilt forward and u can now remove it from the bottom clips by sliding it up and out. to open the top cover u rem
... Read moreove the two 1/4 in screws on the sides of the front panel and lift the top. make sure to secure it in place or unplug the single electrical connection at the rear and remove the whole top from the clips, its really simple and the most convenient mehtod. to remove the straps u can now get to all four without much interference. there are two size screw heads so make sure u have a nut driver or small socket set. after changing the straps i went to change the agitator coupling. the agitator pulled directly up without a problem. just put your two hands under and pull straight up with one good jolt. the plastic coupler has one bolt in the middle that came out easily with a small socket set. my problem arose when the plastic coupler would not come off the metal shaft. after a short time of pulling and prying i finally decided to cut it off. using a small hacksaw and taking my time i put two cuts into the coupler. they were on opposite sides and where vertical, running along the steel shaft. i could now split it in two and it came off very easily and quickly. now when putting on the new one make sure the splines line up. push as far down as u can then use the center bolt to seat the gear all the way down. the agitator also has to be lined up just right. it also has splines on the interior that allow it to line up with the coupler and merely push down until it reseats itself in place. replace the top of the washer and then the front panel. don't forget to rebolt the top panel to the frame. push the front panel in until it snaps into place. full replacement time was about 40 minutes and actually not bad with the right tools.
I placed both hands under the agitator 180 degrees apart, gave a quick jerk, and seperated the agitator from the coupling. With the agitator removed, use a socket and ratchet to remove the bolt holding the coupling to the spline. Remove the old coupling and slide the new one over the spline. Lightly tap on the coupling if necessary. I
... Read morensert the bolt with the ratchet and slide the agitator back over the coupling and you are done.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Tub seal leaked, rusted the transmission bearing which locked up
210 of 248 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Wayne from Saint Augustine, FL
A Bit Difficult
More than 2 hours
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I followed the instructions in the GE Consumer Service Training Technician Manual Pub. No. 31-10008.
I also power washed the basket and tub before reassembly.
The tub seal comes with the transmission and brake assembly so it's not necessary to order another seal.
The agitator coupling kit contai
... Read morens a redesigned coupler and longer screw with new o-ring.
I bought the hub nut, split ring, tub bearing, agitator coupling kit and washer hub because these are all the parts that go on the transmission shaft. I felt it was best to spend a few dollars more to replace every part involved with the spin and agitation of the washer.
I used the channel lock and a hammer with a shortened handle to remove and replace the hub nut. Use caution as the nut is aluminum.