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WCCB1030F3WC
WCCB1030F3WC General Electric Washer - Overview
Sections of the WCCB1030F3WC
[Viewing 4 of 4]
Manuals & Care Guides for WCCB1030F3WC
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Tub Dampening Strap
PartSelect #: PS271100
Manufacturer #: WH1X2727
The tub dampening straps support the wash tub and reduce vibration by keeping the tub at the center of the cabinet. If your washer shakes and moves, or is making a loud banging noise during the wash c...
$9.61
In Stock
Dual Action Agitator
PartSelect #: PS1482519
Manufacturer #: WH43X10034
This is a dual-action agitator for a washer. It is an OEM replacement part that is sourced from the manufacturer. The agitator tosses your clothes to clean them efficiently. This plastic dual-action a...
$75.31
In Stock
Drain Pump and Motor Assembly
PartSelect #: PS8768445
Manufacturer #: WH23X10030
This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time. If you notice that your washing machine will not drain, there is...
$72.45
In Stock
Tub Seal
PartSelect #: PS4704237
Manufacturer #: WH02X10383
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. Its the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. If your washer is leaking during the fill cycle, or at ...
$16.73
In Stock
6-Rib Drive Belt
PartSelect #: PS1482278
Manufacturer #: WH01X10302
This drive belt is made to slip on the motor pulley to bring the basket up to the speed required and this makes the belt get wear and tear.
$25.75
In Stock
Tub Bearing Washer
PartSelect #: PS271509
Manufacturer #: WH2X1197
This is a tub bearing and it is meant to work in conjunction with your washing machine. The purpose of this part is to aid in keeping the inner tub of your washing machine spinning smoothly during a w...
$9.97
In Stock
Split Ring
PartSelect #: PS1766022
Manufacturer #: WH02X10265
This split ring is supplied by the original equipment manufacturer, and it is designed to secure the tub bearing in washing machines. It is a circular metal ring, with an outer diameter of 2 inches. T...
$14.41
In Stock
Tub Bearing
PartSelect #: PS271510
Manufacturer #: WH2X1198
This tub bearing goes in your washing machine. You will find it on the bottom of the outer tub, where the transmission goes through the tub. If you hear metal on metal when the washer is spinning, you...
$27.53
In Stock
Agitator Coupling
PartSelect #: PS1482517
Manufacturer #: WH43X10032
Bolt not included. This part connects the transmission drive shaft to the agitator base.
$25.63
In Stock
Pump to Tub Inlet Drain Hose
PartSelect #: PS11721808
Manufacturer #: WH41X22935
This replacement inlet drain hose connects your washer's water pump to its tub. This hose is seven and a half inches in length and only two inches wide.
$16.95
In Stock
Socket Rod Support - White
PartSelect #: PS268394
Manufacturer #: WH01X10001
This part is a replacement socket rod support for your washer. The socket rod support is found at the top of the washer frame in the front part of the washer. It supports the suspension rod, so the ro...
$12.61
In Stock
Inner Tub Base Hub
PartSelect #: PS273296
Manufacturer #: WH45X10027
This part is the replacement inner tub base hub for your washer. It is made of metal and is approximately 15 inches in diameter. The inner tub base hub fits between the wash tub and the spin basket, a...
$90.76
In Stock
Questions And Answers for WCCB1030F3WC
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Common Symptoms of the WCCB1030F3WC
[Viewing 9 of 9]Leaking
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Will not drain
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Will not agitate
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Marks left on clothes
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Spins slowly
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Burning smell
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Shaking and Moving
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No hot or cold water
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Noisy
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Washing Machine was not draining water from tub.
1. Drained the wash tub by taking the drain hose from the back of the washing machine and dropping it below the tub - water flowed out of hose a lot easier than trying to suck water out of tub using a pump (tried this on the first time I tried to fix washer). (Washing machine on 2nd floor of house and didn't want water running on floor)<
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br />2. Removed the 2 bolts holding the Pump/Motor assembly to the machine.
3. Removed both hose clamps on the Pump/Motor assembly and removed Pump.
4. Attached the new drain inlet hose to the pump and then to the tub with the original hose clamps.
5. Attached the drain hose to the pump and then plugged in the 2 wires for the pump.
6. Plugged in the washing machine and everything worked.
NOTES:
1. Hardest part was working with hose clamps (spring type clamps) in the tight space under the machine.
2. Easier to fix since I pulled machine apart a few days before - removing the clog in the pump/motor assembly only to get everything back together to find out that the motor was dead. Still well worth the time and effort due to not having to go out and buy a new Machine...
3. Removed both hose clamps on the Pump/Motor assembly and removed Pump.
4. Attached the new drain inlet hose to the pump and then to the tub with the original hose clamps.
5. Attached the drain hose to the pump and then plugged in the 2 wires for the pump.
6. Plugged in the washing machine and everything worked.
NOTES:
1. Hardest part was working with hose clamps (spring type clamps) in the tight space under the machine.
2. Easier to fix since I pulled machine apart a few days before - removing the clog in the pump/motor assembly only to get everything back together to find out that the motor was dead. Still well worth the time and effort due to not having to go out and buy a new Machine...
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Parts Used:
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Gerald from Midlothian, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
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machine would not drain all other functions seemed o.k
Aside from getting the wet clothes and most of the water out,the toughest part of the job for me was to figure out how to get inside the machine. I nearly wrecked the thing trying to lift the top panel. After some frustration I removed the star-type screws on back of the control panel and found, tucked away neatly, the documentation/parts
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list complete with instructions on how to remove the FRONT panel. Once I got inside it was easy to locate the pump. I ran the drain cycle for a moment to see if the pump turned at all. The original had an exposed fan so it was easy to see that indeed the motor was not turning. I inspected all the hose and electrical connections to make sure I had the tools I'd need and the savvy to replace the part(s) if I could locate them. I'm not much of a web-head, so I was a little surprised when I typed G.E. appliances and the search took me to partselect.com where I was pretty much coached through the procedure before I even ordered the part. The box arrived ahead of schedule (yay) and when I looked at the pump it didn't look much like the one I was replacing. But then I realized it was the same thing just ten years more advanced. I used a small pair of vise grips to pinch and lock the pipe clamps open. I know there is a plier made for this, but... Anyways, after loosening the clamps and sliding them away from the pump I pulled the hoses off and let the last of the rinse water still in them run down my shirt sleeve to my elbow. (optional, not recommended) Thus refreshed I then rummaged through my socket set and found what I needed to remove the 2 sheet metal mounting screws and disconnected the 2 power leads. I removed the faulty pump and proudly showed it to my wife. Unimpressed, she asked how much longer. I quickly reversed the procedure to install the new unit and confidently piled in a load of laundry. The cycle completed just fine and has done so since. I will and have recommmended partselect.com to friends and will use it again for sure.
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Parts Used:
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douglas from danby, VT
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Socket set
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broken drive belt
To diagnose, first I unhooked the washer: power, water supply, and drain pipe. I then slid the washer out, laying it on its front. With nutdriver, I unscrewed two screws that held the other end of the drain tube and removed it completely. Then, again with the nutdriver removed 4 screws from the back near the legs, two in between the leg
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s in the middle, and approx. 4 to 6 on the bottom. This let me pull the bottom off partially to access the motor area. (I did did not take the bottom completely off, only about 2/3 off and let it bend over, as it was flexible tin) The belt was broken. After receiving the new belt, I positioned it between the pulley and the motor and between the drum and the big pulley. Then I rotated the big pulley, pulling the belt onto it as I rotated. At the same time, as I rotated, I pulled the other end of the belt on to the little pulley. Once it was on, I would put pressure on it as I turned the pulley, to jump the belt to the appropriate grooves on the little pulley. Note: the replacement belt had been modified, so it had one less groove than the pulley. I would have known this if I had read the insert that came with the belt first! Anyway, this was not a problem, only a design change. Also it was important to start the belt on the inside, so if it slipped, you didnt loose your bite. Total diagnostic, repair, and reassembly time: 30 minutes plus or minus. I had read other online forums that said you had to loosen the motor, etc. And I do know some type of a belt installation tool was offered on line, but I got along fine with my installation method. An extra set of hands would have been helpful, but not necessary.
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Parts Used:
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jon from barry, IL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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