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VLSR1090G3WW Hotpoint Washer - Overview

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DAMPENING STRAP 2PACK – Part Number: WH01X39337
$39.42
In Stock
DAMPENING STRAP 2PACK
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★★★★★
(38)
Part #WH01X39337
The tub dampening straps support the wash tub and reduce vibration by keeping the tub at the center of the cabinet. If your washer shakes and moves, or is making a loud banging noise during the wash cycle, the washing machine tub could be off-balance, meaning one or more of these straps may be loose, or broken. Other symptoms include: the washer leaking, not agitating, or pumping but not spinning. These straps are sold individually. However, we recommend that you replace all 4 straps at the same time. It is also recommended that you check the tub for cracks where these straps mount.
D-Shaped Knob Clip – Part Number: WH01X10106
No Longer Available
D-Shaped Knob Clip
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(28)
Part #WH01X10106
This clip ensures that the knob is securely fastened to the control shaft, allowing you to properly select the correct time and setting for your dryer. If your dryer will not start or shut off, the timer will not advance, or the dryer shuts off too soon, the issue may be the control knob itself. This clip is sold individually. Although this part fits with some different brands, be sure to check the list of brands below to make sure it fits with your dryer unit. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions.
Drain Hose – Part Number: WH41X10096
$36.37
In Stock
Drain Hose
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(68)
Part #WH41X10096
The drain hose is black in color and made of flexible material. This is a part for your top-load washer. The hose measures 57 inches long. This part moves the water out of the washer and into the drain. If this parts cracks or becomes damaged it will leak during the drain cycle of your wash and you may find water on the floor. To access the hose, you will need to move the washer away from the wall to get to the back of the appliance. There will be two screws holding it in place that will need to be removed.
Drain Pump and Motor Assembly – Part Number: WH23X10030
$61.55
In Stock
Drain Pump and Motor Assembly
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Part #WH23X10030
This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time. If you notice that your washing machine will not drain, there is a good chance that you will have to replace the drain pump. The drain pump is located inside the washing machine, near the bottom. To access the drain pump for this repair, you will need to remove the front panel. Before you begin this repair, be sure that the power source is disconnected and the water source is shut off.
Tub Seal – Part Number: WH02X10383
$22.24
In Stock
Tub Seal
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(18)
Part #WH02X10383
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. Its the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. If your washer is leaking during the fill cycle, or at agitation time, your tub seal may need to be replaced. You can check if the tub seal needs to be replaced by watching that area during an actual fill cycle. Take off the front panel, or if it is a front-loading washer, the rear panel. Without touching the washing machine, observe the place where the shaft of the transmission comes into the tub and the weep holes at the housing of the rear bearing. If there is water leaking, the tub seal is at fault. NOTE: This seal is difficult to replace and should probably be installed by a qualified technician.
Knob and Clip – Part Number: WH01X10313
$13.92
In Stock
Knob and Clip
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(32)
Part #WH01X10313
This knob accepts a D-shaped shaft.
Tub Bearing Washer – Part Number: WH2X1197
$16.05
In Stock
Tub Bearing Washer
Part #WH2X1197
This is a tub bearing and it is meant to work in conjunction with your washing machine. The purpose of this part is to aid in keeping the inner tub of your washing machine spinning smoothly during a wash cycle. The most common reasons for needing to change your tub bearing is if your appliance is noisy or shaking/moving during the wash cycle, another common symptom is leaking water. This part is sold individually and measures to have an inner diameter of roughly 1 inch, and an outer diameter of roughly 2 inches.
Split Ring – Part Number: WH02X10265
No Longer Available
Split Ring
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Part #WH02X10265
This split ring is supplied by the original equipment manufacturer, and it is designed to secure the tub bearing in washing machines. It is a circular metal ring, with an outer diameter of 2 inches. The ring has a split or gap, which allows it to expand and contract for easy installation and removal. It is typically located on the inner side of the washing machine outer tub, where it provides stability and prevents the washer from excessively shaking during use. It is normal for the split ring to become worn, corroded, or damaged due to age, exposure to moisture, and excessive stress. A faulty split ring will lead to a noisy, unstable washer and eventually cause the tub assembly to fall out of alignment. Remove the washer panels to access the outer tub and split ring. Carefully detach the damaged split ring from the tub and position the new split ring in its place. Ensure that it is properly aligned and securely fastened before reattaching the panels.
Tub Bearing – Part Number: WH2X1198
$43.94
In Stock
Tub Bearing
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(3)
Part #WH2X1198
This tub bearing goes in your washing machine. You will find it on the bottom of the outer tub, where the transmission goes through the tub. If you hear metal on metal when the washer is spinning, you may need to replace the tub bearing. This bearing is made of metal, and is approximately 3 inches wide and 2 inches tall.
Agitator Coupling – Part Number: WH43X10032
$30.39
In Stock
Agitator Coupling
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(22)
Part #WH43X10032
Bolt not included. This part connects the transmission drive shaft to the agitator base.
Compression Ring – Part Number: WH02X10093
$29.47
In Stock
Compression Ring
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(1)
Part #WH02X10093
Used in conjunction with the timer dial knob assembly.
Water Level Pressure Switch – Part Number: WH12X10065
$55.29
In Stock
Water Level Pressure Switch
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(6)
Part #WH12X10065
This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached.

Manuals & Care Guides for VLSR1090G3WW

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Questions And Answers for VLSR1090G3WW

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ANGIE - For model number VLSR1090G3WW
July 27, 2023
My washer will not fill up so the water uprise out but drains right out
Chris Boyle Profile
Hi Angie, thank you for reaching out. Check if there is an adequate water supply to the washing machine. Ensure that the water valves behind the washer are fully open and not clogged. Sometimes, debris can block the water inlet screens, so it is a good idea to inspect and clean them if needed. Also make sure drain hose is not kinked or clogged. If this does not help, this may be an overfill issue with the washer not sensing when to shut off the water. We recommend checking the pressure switch, part number PS269790. Good luck with this repair!
$55.29
In Stock
Water Level Pressure Switch
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Common Symptoms of the VLSR1090G3WW

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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machine would not drain all other functions seemed o.k
88 of 92 people found this instruction helpful.
  • douglas from danby, VT
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
Aside from getting the wet clothes and most of the water out,the toughest part of the job for me was to figure out how to get inside the machine. I nearly wrecked the thing trying to lift the top panel. After some frustration I removed the star-type screws on back of the control panel and found, tucked away neatly, the documentation/parts list complete with instructions on how to remove the FRONT panel. Once I got inside it was easy to locate the pump. I ran the drain cycle for a moment to see if the pump turned at all. The original had an exposed fan so it was easy to see that indeed the motor was not turning. I inspected all the hose and electrical connections to make sure I had the tools I'd need and the savvy to replace the part(s) if I could locate them. I'm not much of a web-head, so I was a little surprised when I typed G.E. appliances and the search took me to partselect.com where I was pretty much coached through the procedure before I even ordered the part. The box arrived ahead of schedule (yay) and when I looked at the pump it didn't look much like the one I was replacing. But then I realized it was the same thing just ten years more advanced. I used a small pair of vise grips to pinch and lock the pipe clamps open. I know there is a plier made for this, but... Anyways, after loosening the clamps and sliding them away from the pump I pulled the hoses off and let the last of the rinse water still in them run down my shirt sleeve to my elbow. (optional, not recommended) Thus refreshed I then rummaged through my socket set and found what I needed to remove the 2 sheet metal mounting screws and disconnected the 2 power leads. I removed the faulty pump and proudly showed it to my wife. Unimpressed, she asked how much longer. I quickly reversed the procedure to install the new unit and confidently piled in a load of laundry. The cycle completed just fine and has done so since. I will and have recommmended partselect.com to friends and will use it again for sure.
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Bearing on the transmission to tub wore out (mostly due to the washer not being level)
89 of 106 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Victor from League City, TX
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
The back of the control panel had an instruction pamplet that was very useful. 2 parts did not go as written tho. To "pop" the spinner out, required short 1x4s and a shake/shingle bar to pry it up and the wedging of the 1x4s under it, until enough strain was put on it to "pop" it off. Then the large 1&11/16 nut was a bear. It require d a short pipe wrench (so it fit in the tub) and a hammer to brake it loose.
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Leaking oil into the washer (in tub and on clothes)
54 of 57 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scott from Bloomington, IN
  • Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Had never repaired a washer before, but have several tools and enjoy working with my hands. Knew it would be cost prohibitive to call a repairman, and didn't have anything to lose. Quick delivery from partselect -- reasonable price, too. This was as easy as simply taking the whole washer apart (NOTE -- there are instructions behind the kn obs inside the unit that are very helpful!) replacing the transmission and putting it all back together. Hardest part was getting the hub nut off of the transmission axle. To get it off (REVERSE THREADED, so 'tighten' to 'loosen') I used a 1 11/16 socket and impact wrench. Use the same tool to tighten (but go EASY...don't overtighten). This was not difficult, but just took some time. A couple of evenings later, we were washing again like NEW. Part cost around $160, labor was 'free' and much less than a new $500 top loader or $800 front loader. If you enjoy taking things apart and have some tools, then go for it!
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