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VBSR3100DCWW Hotpoint Washer - Overview

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DAMPENING STRAP 2PACK – Part Number: WH01X39337
$39.42
In Stock
DAMPENING STRAP 2PACK
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(38)
Part #WH01X39337
The tub dampening straps support the wash tub and reduce vibration by keeping the tub at the center of the cabinet. If your washer shakes and moves, or is making a loud banging noise during the wash cycle, the washing machine tub could be off-balance, meaning one or more of these straps may be loose, or broken. Other symptoms include: the washer leaking, not agitating, or pumping but not spinning. These straps are sold individually. However, we recommend that you replace all 4 straps at the same time. It is also recommended that you check the tub for cracks where these straps mount.
Agitator Coupling Kit – Part Number: WH49X10042
$44.23
In Stock
Agitator Coupling Kit
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(53)
Part #WH49X10042
The agitator coupler connects the agitator to the agitator shaft. Common symptoms of a damaged coupler include: a grinding sound during the wash cycle, the washer refusing to agitate or spin, or the washing machine shakes and moves during the wash cycle. Unplug the washer and pull the agitator straight up. Remove the bolt that holds the coupler onto the shaft of the transmission and pull the coupler off. Be sure to clean any dirt, rust, or residue off the transmission spline grooves, and make sure the grooves on the agitator splines are clean and undamaged. We recommend using the gasket and bolt that come with the replacement coupling.
Drain Hose – Part Number: WH41X10096
$36.37
In Stock
Drain Hose
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(68)
Part #WH41X10096
The drain hose is black in color and made of flexible material. This is a part for your top-load washer. The hose measures 57 inches long. This part moves the water out of the washer and into the drain. If this parts cracks or becomes damaged it will leak during the drain cycle of your wash and you may find water on the floor. To access the hose, you will need to move the washer away from the wall to get to the back of the appliance. There will be two screws holding it in place that will need to be removed.
Drain Pump and Motor Assembly – Part Number: WH23X10030
$61.55
In Stock
Drain Pump and Motor Assembly
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(39)
Part #WH23X10030
This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time. If you notice that your washing machine will not drain, there is a good chance that you will have to replace the drain pump. The drain pump is located inside the washing machine, near the bottom. To access the drain pump for this repair, you will need to remove the front panel. Before you begin this repair, be sure that the power source is disconnected and the water source is shut off.
Tub Seal – Part Number: WH02X10383
$22.24
In Stock
Tub Seal
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(18)
Part #WH02X10383
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. Its the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. If your washer is leaking during the fill cycle, or at agitation time, your tub seal may need to be replaced. You can check if the tub seal needs to be replaced by watching that area during an actual fill cycle. Take off the front panel, or if it is a front-loading washer, the rear panel. Without touching the washing machine, observe the place where the shaft of the transmission comes into the tub and the weep holes at the housing of the rear bearing. If there is water leaking, the tub seal is at fault. NOTE: This seal is difficult to replace and should probably be installed by a qualified technician.
6-Rib Drive Belt – Part Number: WH01X10302
$38.45
In Stock
6-Rib Drive Belt
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(23)
Part #WH01X10302
This drive belt is made to slip on the motor pulley to bring the basket up to the speed required and this makes the belt get wear and tear.
Tub Bearing Washer – Part Number: WH2X1197
$16.05
In Stock
Tub Bearing Washer
Part #WH2X1197
This is a tub bearing and it is meant to work in conjunction with your washing machine. The purpose of this part is to aid in keeping the inner tub of your washing machine spinning smoothly during a wash cycle. The most common reasons for needing to change your tub bearing is if your appliance is noisy or shaking/moving during the wash cycle, another common symptom is leaking water. This part is sold individually and measures to have an inner diameter of roughly 1 inch, and an outer diameter of roughly 2 inches.
Split Ring – Part Number: WH02X10265
No Longer Available
Split Ring
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Part #WH02X10265
This split ring is supplied by the original equipment manufacturer, and it is designed to secure the tub bearing in washing machines. It is a circular metal ring, with an outer diameter of 2 inches. The ring has a split or gap, which allows it to expand and contract for easy installation and removal. It is typically located on the inner side of the washing machine outer tub, where it provides stability and prevents the washer from excessively shaking during use. It is normal for the split ring to become worn, corroded, or damaged due to age, exposure to moisture, and excessive stress. A faulty split ring will lead to a noisy, unstable washer and eventually cause the tub assembly to fall out of alignment. Remove the washer panels to access the outer tub and split ring. Carefully detach the damaged split ring from the tub and position the new split ring in its place. Ensure that it is properly aligned and securely fastened before reattaching the panels.
Tub Bearing – Part Number: WH2X1198
$43.94
In Stock
Tub Bearing
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(3)
Part #WH2X1198
This tub bearing goes in your washing machine. You will find it on the bottom of the outer tub, where the transmission goes through the tub. If you hear metal on metal when the washer is spinning, you may need to replace the tub bearing. This bearing is made of metal, and is approximately 3 inches wide and 2 inches tall.
Compression Ring – Part Number: WH02X10093
$29.47
In Stock
Compression Ring
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(1)
Part #WH02X10093
Used in conjunction with the timer dial knob assembly.
Lid Switch with Wire Harness – Part Number: WH12X10334
$43.92
On Order
Lid Switch with Wire Harness
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(18)
Part #WH12X10334
This lid switch with wire harnesses is used in washing machines. The pin on the lid switch pushes onto the lever of the switch to communicate to the machine that the washer lid is closed. If your washing machine is not running when the lid is closed, not spinning, draining, or agitating, replacing the lid switch could solve the problem. The tools needed for this repair are: putty knife, 1/4 inch nut driver, wire strippers and crimpers. Refer to the manual for further installation instructions. Remember to unplug your washer from the power source as a safety precaution.
Water Level Pressure Switch – Part Number: WH12X10065
$55.29
In Stock
Water Level Pressure Switch
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(6)
Part #WH12X10065
This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached.

Manuals & Care Guides for VBSR3100DCWW

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Common Symptoms of the VBSR3100DCWW

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broken dampening strap and loose agitator
286 of 308 people found this instruction helpful.
  • molly from laguna niguel, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
first remove the front washer cover by finding the two pressure clips that hold it to the top lid. gently push the putty knife into the clips one at a time. this will raise and separate them from the front panel. the panel will tilt forward and u can now remove it from the bottom clips by sliding it up and out. to open the top cover u rem ove the two 1/4 in screws on the sides of the front panel and lift the top. make sure to secure it in place or unplug the single electrical connection at the rear and remove the whole top from the clips, its really simple and the most convenient mehtod. to remove the straps u can now get to all four without much interference. there are two size screw heads so make sure u have a nut driver or small socket set. after changing the straps i went to change the agitator coupling. the agitator pulled directly up without a problem. just put your two hands under and pull straight up with one good jolt. the plastic coupler has one bolt in the middle that came out easily with a small socket set. my problem arose when the plastic coupler would not come off the metal shaft. after a short time of pulling and prying i finally decided to cut it off. using a small hacksaw and taking my time i put two cuts into the coupler. they were on opposite sides and where vertical, running along the steel shaft. i could now split it in two and it came off very easily and quickly. now when putting on the new one make sure the splines line up. push as far down as u can then use the center bolt to seat the gear all the way down. the agitator also has to be lined up just right. it also has splines on the interior that allow it to line up with the coupler and merely push down until it reseats itself in place. replace the top of the washer and then the front panel. don't forget to rebolt the top panel to the frame. push the front panel in until it snaps into place. full replacement time was about 40 minutes and actually not bad with the right tools.
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Agitator would not move during wash cycle
232 of 265 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Lexington, KY
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
I placed both hands under the agitator 180 degrees apart, gave a quick jerk, and seperated the agitator from the coupling. With the agitator removed, use a socket and ratchet to remove the bolt holding the coupling to the spline. Remove the old coupling and slide the new one over the spline. Lightly tap on the coupling if necessary. I nsert the bolt with the ratchet and slide the agitator back over the coupling and you are done.
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washing machine would not go through all cycles or agitate
230 of 294 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from Millerplace, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
After removing frt panel which prys off I checked for anything obvious like a loose belt. Then I jiggled the magnet switch located on the inside of the loading cover. I saw the machine start agitating the it stopped again when I stopped touching it. I ordered the new part and spliced it in with the wire crip tool. Now the machine is A ok.
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