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VBSR3100B2WW Hotpoint Washer - Overview

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DAMPENING STRAP 2PACK – Part Number: WH01X39337
$39.42
In Stock
DAMPENING STRAP 2PACK
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★★★★★
(38)
Part #WH01X39337
The tub dampening straps support the wash tub and reduce vibration by keeping the tub at the center of the cabinet. If your washer shakes and moves, or is making a loud banging noise during the wash cycle, the washing machine tub could be off-balance, meaning one or more of these straps may be loose, or broken. Other symptoms include: the washer leaking, not agitating, or pumping but not spinning. These straps are sold individually. However, we recommend that you replace all 4 straps at the same time. It is also recommended that you check the tub for cracks where these straps mount.
Agitator Coupling Kit – Part Number: WH49X10042
$44.23
In Stock
Agitator Coupling Kit
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(53)
Part #WH49X10042
The agitator coupler connects the agitator to the agitator shaft. Common symptoms of a damaged coupler include: a grinding sound during the wash cycle, the washer refusing to agitate or spin, or the washing machine shakes and moves during the wash cycle. Unplug the washer and pull the agitator straight up. Remove the bolt that holds the coupler onto the shaft of the transmission and pull the coupler off. Be sure to clean any dirt, rust, or residue off the transmission spline grooves, and make sure the grooves on the agitator splines are clean and undamaged. We recommend using the gasket and bolt that come with the replacement coupling.
Drain Pump and Motor Assembly – Part Number: WH23X10030
$61.55
In Stock
Drain Pump and Motor Assembly
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(39)
Part #WH23X10030
This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time. If you notice that your washing machine will not drain, there is a good chance that you will have to replace the drain pump. The drain pump is located inside the washing machine, near the bottom. To access the drain pump for this repair, you will need to remove the front panel. Before you begin this repair, be sure that the power source is disconnected and the water source is shut off.
Tub Bearing Washer – Part Number: WH2X1197
$16.05
In Stock
Tub Bearing Washer
Part #WH2X1197
This is a tub bearing and it is meant to work in conjunction with your washing machine. The purpose of this part is to aid in keeping the inner tub of your washing machine spinning smoothly during a wash cycle. The most common reasons for needing to change your tub bearing is if your appliance is noisy or shaking/moving during the wash cycle, another common symptom is leaking water. This part is sold individually and measures to have an inner diameter of roughly 1 inch, and an outer diameter of roughly 2 inches.
Split Ring – Part Number: WH02X10265
No Longer Available
Split Ring
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(9)
Part #WH02X10265
This split ring is supplied by the original equipment manufacturer, and it is designed to secure the tub bearing in washing machines. It is a circular metal ring, with an outer diameter of 2 inches. The ring has a split or gap, which allows it to expand and contract for easy installation and removal. It is typically located on the inner side of the washing machine outer tub, where it provides stability and prevents the washer from excessively shaking during use. It is normal for the split ring to become worn, corroded, or damaged due to age, exposure to moisture, and excessive stress. A faulty split ring will lead to a noisy, unstable washer and eventually cause the tub assembly to fall out of alignment. Remove the washer panels to access the outer tub and split ring. Carefully detach the damaged split ring from the tub and position the new split ring in its place. Ensure that it is properly aligned and securely fastened before reattaching the panels.
Compression Ring – Part Number: WH02X10093
$29.47
In Stock
Compression Ring
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(1)
Part #WH02X10093
Used in conjunction with the timer dial knob assembly.
Water Level Pressure Switch – Part Number: WH12X10065
$55.29
In Stock
Water Level Pressure Switch
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(6)
Part #WH12X10065
This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached.
Socket Rod Support - White – Part Number: WH01X10001
$15.00
In Stock
Socket Rod Support - White
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(1)
Part #WH01X10001
This part is a replacement socket rod support for your washer. The socket rod support is found at the top of the washer frame in the front part of the washer. It supports the suspension rod, so the rod can prevent the tub from shaking too much during operation. If your washer is shaking excessively or emitting an odd sound during use, it may be because the rod support is broken, and the suspension rod is not able to do its job. This part is made of white plastic and is sold individually.
Inner Tub Base Hub – Part Number: WH45X10027
$82.87
In Stock
Inner Tub Base Hub
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(7)
Part #WH45X10027
This part is the replacement inner tub base hub for your washer. It is made of metal and is approximately 15 inches in diameter. The inner tub base hub fits between the wash tub and the spin basket, and it holds the spin basket on the gear case shaft. The main reason you would want to replace the hub, is if the washer will not agitate, or if you notice excessive noise or shaking when the washer is in use. Be sure to disconnect the washer from the water and power sources before you begin this repair. This part is sold individually and is and OEM part from the manufacturer.
Screw - Black – Part Number: WH02X10002
$15.00
Special Order
Screw - Black
Part #WH02X10002
This screw is sold individually.
Water Fill Nozzle – Part Number: WH41X10077
$24.12
In Stock
Water Fill Nozzle
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(6)
Part #WH41X10077
This part is the replacement water fill nozzle for your washer. It is white and tan in color, made of plastic, and is approximately 7 inches long and 4 inches wide. The water fill nozzle is also known as the water inlet assembly and directs the fill water into the tub. Over time the nozzle can become cracked and damaged, and this can cause it to leak. A damaged nozzle will need to be replaced. Be sure to disconnect the water supply to the washer before you begin this repair. You should also determine if any of the other parts that transport water into the washer are leaking, including the water inlet hose, and if they need to be repaired as well. This part is sold individually and is a genuine OEM part.
Transmission and Brake Assembly – Part Number: WH38X10002
No Longer Available
Transmission and Brake Assembly
Part #WH38X10002
This transmission and brake assembly comes with a new tub seal. This kit aids in the spinning or agitating cycles.

Manuals & Care Guides for VBSR3100B2WW

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Common Symptoms of the VBSR3100B2WW

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broken dampening strap and loose agitator
286 of 308 people found this instruction helpful.
  • molly from laguna niguel, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
first remove the front washer cover by finding the two pressure clips that hold it to the top lid. gently push the putty knife into the clips one at a time. this will raise and separate them from the front panel. the panel will tilt forward and u can now remove it from the bottom clips by sliding it up and out. to open the top cover u rem ove the two 1/4 in screws on the sides of the front panel and lift the top. make sure to secure it in place or unplug the single electrical connection at the rear and remove the whole top from the clips, its really simple and the most convenient mehtod. to remove the straps u can now get to all four without much interference. there are two size screw heads so make sure u have a nut driver or small socket set. after changing the straps i went to change the agitator coupling. the agitator pulled directly up without a problem. just put your two hands under and pull straight up with one good jolt. the plastic coupler has one bolt in the middle that came out easily with a small socket set. my problem arose when the plastic coupler would not come off the metal shaft. after a short time of pulling and prying i finally decided to cut it off. using a small hacksaw and taking my time i put two cuts into the coupler. they were on opposite sides and where vertical, running along the steel shaft. i could now split it in two and it came off very easily and quickly. now when putting on the new one make sure the splines line up. push as far down as u can then use the center bolt to seat the gear all the way down. the agitator also has to be lined up just right. it also has splines on the interior that allow it to line up with the coupler and merely push down until it reseats itself in place. replace the top of the washer and then the front panel. don't forget to rebolt the top panel to the frame. push the front panel in until it snaps into place. full replacement time was about 40 minutes and actually not bad with the right tools.
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Agitator would not move during wash cycle
232 of 265 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Lexington, KY
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
I placed both hands under the agitator 180 degrees apart, gave a quick jerk, and seperated the agitator from the coupling. With the agitator removed, use a socket and ratchet to remove the bolt holding the coupling to the spline. Remove the old coupling and slide the new one over the spline. Lightly tap on the coupling if necessary. I nsert the bolt with the ratchet and slide the agitator back over the coupling and you are done.
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machine would not drain all other functions seemed o.k
88 of 92 people found this instruction helpful.
  • douglas from danby, VT
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
Aside from getting the wet clothes and most of the water out,the toughest part of the job for me was to figure out how to get inside the machine. I nearly wrecked the thing trying to lift the top panel. After some frustration I removed the star-type screws on back of the control panel and found, tucked away neatly, the documentation/parts list complete with instructions on how to remove the FRONT panel. Once I got inside it was easy to locate the pump. I ran the drain cycle for a moment to see if the pump turned at all. The original had an exposed fan so it was easy to see that indeed the motor was not turning. I inspected all the hose and electrical connections to make sure I had the tools I'd need and the savvy to replace the part(s) if I could locate them. I'm not much of a web-head, so I was a little surprised when I typed G.E. appliances and the search took me to partselect.com where I was pretty much coached through the procedure before I even ordered the part. The box arrived ahead of schedule (yay) and when I looked at the pump it didn't look much like the one I was replacing. But then I realized it was the same thing just ten years more advanced. I used a small pair of vise grips to pinch and lock the pipe clamps open. I know there is a plier made for this, but... Anyways, after loosening the clamps and sliding them away from the pump I pulled the hoses off and let the last of the rinse water still in them run down my shirt sleeve to my elbow. (optional, not recommended) Thus refreshed I then rummaged through my socket set and found what I needed to remove the 2 sheet metal mounting screws and disconnected the 2 power leads. I removed the faulty pump and proudly showed it to my wife. Unimpressed, she asked how much longer. I quickly reversed the procedure to install the new unit and confidently piled in a load of laundry. The cycle completed just fine and has done so since. I will and have recommmended partselect.com to friends and will use it again for sure.
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