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UCP210BCLWH (8V012) Maytag Freezer - Overview

Diagrams for UCP210BCLWH

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Dryer Screw – Part Number: WP90767
$7.47
In Stock
Dryer Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
Freezer Door Gasket (White) – Part Number: WP4-81049-001
$174.72
In Stock
Freezer Door Gasket (White)
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★★★★★
(4)
Part #WP4-81049-001
This white door gasket is used to make an air-tight seal for the cabinet when the door is closed.
Stand Mixer Screw – Part Number: WP4159193
$8.55
In Stock
Stand Mixer Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WP4159193
This screw is sold individually.
Refrigerator Leveler – Part Number: W11117769
$17.15
In Stock
Refrigerator Leveler
Part #W11117769
This is an OEM part that is made of metal and sold individually. The leveling leg is generally used with refrigerators, dryers, freezers, ranges, cooktops, and microwaves. The leveling leg is meant to keep your appliance steady and level to the floor. If you notice your appliance is uneven to the floor it may need to have the leveling leg replaced. You will notice that the bottom of the leveling leg has a smooth surface to ensure moving your appliance does not require as much effort. This part screws into a pre-drilled hole underneath the appliance.
Refrigerator Screw – Part Number: WP3-24004-109
$7.47
In Stock
Refrigerator Screw
Part #WP3-24004-109
Sold individually.
Refrigerator Screw – Part Number: WP3-24838-048
$7.47
Special Order
Refrigerator Screw
Part #WP3-24838-048
Sold individually.
Freezer Door Key – Part Number: WP61859-1
No Longer Available
Freezer Door Key
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(2)
Part #WP61859-1
This metal freezer door key fits upright freezers. It has a cross shape and is approximately 2 inches long. If your freezer door will not stay shut, you can lock the door to keep it closed. If your key will not lock, or unlock the freezer door; check to see if it has been damaged or bent. If the key is damaged, you should look to replace it to avoid damaging the lock. The key should engage the locking mechanism with ease. If the lock sticks when you turn the key, use penetrating fluid to loosen the mechanism. These keys are sold individually, and should be stored somewhere safe and not next to the unit.
Gate Support - Right Hand – Part Number: 4357293
No Longer Available
Gate Support - Right Hand
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(1)
Part #4357293
This gate support is designed to support the gate or fence on your vertical freezer. This part is designed for the right-hand side and differs from the left-hand side gate support. Be sure to note which side of your gate support is damaged before ordering this part. This product is sold individually. It is white in color and is made entirely of plastic. The gate support is approximately 6.5 inches in length and slightly less than an inch in width. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Washer – Part Number: WP52185-1
$11.77
Special Order
Washer
Part #WP52185-1
This door hinge washer is less than an inch in diameter. It is all white in color and it is made entirely of plastic.
Screw – Part Number: WPW10068250
$8.55
Special Order
Screw
Part #WPW10068250
This screw is sold individually.
Refrigerator Drier (Service) – Part Number: WPW10143759
$29.47
In Stock
Refrigerator Drier (Service)
Part #WPW10143759
This drier may also be known as a refrigerator ultra-violet dye drier or a filter drier and is meant to be used with your fridge. This piece is a filter for the refrigerant that moves through the refrigerators sealed-system. The most common reason you will need to replace the filter is if your fridge/freezer is not starting. You should consider having this piece installed by an appliance repair technician that is trained and licensed. Installing this part requires specialized knowledge and tools. The installation will require the service technician to recover and recharge the refrigerant in the refrigerators sealed-system.
CLIP – Part Number: 1-80247-101
$11.77
Special Order

Common Symptoms of the UCP210BCLWH

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Door stopped sealing in lower section of the door
33 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leif from Miami, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Remove lower door hinge only, and door pops out. Then lay door on floor and remove the screws fastening the inner freezer tray & gasket to the door; this is where the cordless drill w/nut driver attachment is handy as there are 30+ screws to remove and an open freezer with all your food gaining temperature. At this point drop the new gask et in the dryer on low heat for 5-10 mins to soften it, regardless of it's condition. Have someone clean the sealing area on the freezer and where you have removed the old gasket on the door while you fit the new gasket in. Renew all rusted screws and smear a little grease on hinge for future protection since the door is off. Remount door and check for leaks, the door should close and seal on it's own WITHOUT pushing. This is where I realised the importance of warming the gasket, I got lucky by passing a blow dryer along the leaking areas with the door closed.
Point: When buying a new freezer look for compression of the gasket which is an indicator of a warped door. My freezer is only 5yrs old and I shouldn't be changing the gasket so soon!
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Bad seal/gasket on freezer door.
16 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeff from North Jackson, OH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench set
Using a 3/8" wrench I took the top hinge off of the door. I had a friend around so I put him to work but the project could be done alone. We set the door on a countertop and began removing the old gasket with the nut driver on a cordless drill/screwgun. We eventually decided it was worth the extra effort to set the door on sawhorses in the garage (where the freezer is located).

I had stored the new gasket in the garage before installation and wished I had brought it inside to warm it up first. I remembered reading posts about using a hair dryer to soften the gasket but forgot about the post about putting the gasket in the clothes dryer for a few minutes. Stretching the new gasket around the door while it was cold was tricky in some spots but doable. One or two of the the corners of the new gasket began to pull apart but not enough to compromise the seal - although for the price of the gasket, I would have rather this not happened. I wish I would have used the clothes dryer first. Instead, we simply threw in a few screws in places and stretched the gasket around the corners. This was one time I was especially glad to have another person around.

After negotiating the corners and replacing all of the screws, we quickly placed the door back on the bottom hinge and put the top hinge back on. It was again nice to have a friend help square up the door before tightening the top hinge. We used a hair dryer to soften the gasket and a lot of hand work to mold the gasket and close the gap beyween the door and the freezer. Again, I think the clothes dryer would have saved time here as well. The gasket was quite compressed and needed a lot of work to help it "open up" and make a good seal.

Good luck on your own repair!
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Ice was building up in freezer
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brad from Springtown, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
My seal around the freezer door was in need of changing. Placed the new seal in the dryer for about 10min while I removed all the screws from around the door. When I got to the bottom of the door the screws were rusty. Removed the old seal. Have back up screws on hand incase this happens. I cleaned the area at the bottom of the door that had become rusty. Then draped the new seal over the top of the door and started screwing the new one to the door. It was done! Pretty quick and easy.
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