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TL120KL (P7803247W) Maytag Refrigerator - Overview

Diagrams for TL120KL

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Replacement Ice Maker – Part Number: D7824706Q
$95.17
In Stock
Replacement Ice Maker
★★★★★
★★★★★
(187)
Part #D7824706Q
This ice maker (Ice Maker Assembly, Refrigerator Ice Maker) produces ice cubes that are ejected into the storage bucket. It is located in the freezer section of your appliance, mounted on the freezer wall. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. If this happens, your refrigerator may no longer make ice cubes, or may not make enough cubes, and the part should be replaced. This model measures approximately 11 inches long and 5 inches wide. It’s constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white/silver. This assembly includes the ice mold and the control device.
Refrigerator Door Shelf – Part Number: 67003699
No Longer Available
Door Retainer Shelf – Part Number: 67003698
No Longer Available
Fresh Food Door Gasket – Part Number: WPD7605109Q
No Longer Available
Fresh Food Door Gasket
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WPD7605109Q
This white fresh food door gasket is almost forty-one inches long.
Kickplate Grille With Clips – Part Number: D7520510
No Longer Available
Kickplate Grille With Clips
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #D7520510
The kickplate grille attaches across the bottom of the refrigerator and allows air to flow into the machine compartment to cool the condenser. The main reason to replace your grille is because it has become damaged, or will not fasten properly due to a broken mounting clip. This grille is black in color, made completely of plastic, and measures approximately 33 inches long x 5 inches wide. This is a genuine OEM replacement part, and fits many different brands and models. Be sure to check if this part will fit your model before purchasing. This kickplate grille comes with mounting clips.
Evaporator Fan Motor – Part Number: WPC8891605
$191.50
Special Order
Evaporator Fan Motor
Part #WPC8891605
This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated.
Refrigerator Defrost Timer – Part Number: WP10129301
No Longer Available
Refrigerator Defrost Timer
Part #WP10129301
BLADE- FAN – Part Number: B5742603
No Longer Available
BLADE- FAN
Part #B5742603
Inlet Valve – Part Number: WPD7712603
$118.52
Special Order
Inlet Valve
Part #WPD7712603
Freezer Door Gasket – Part Number: WPD7605108Q
No Longer Available
Freezer Door Gasket
Part #WPD7605108Q
This white door gasket is used to seal the freezer door when closed.
COLD CONTR – Part Number: WPC8907301
No Longer Available
COLD CONTR
Part #WPC8907301
HEATER EVA – Part Number: D7549703
No Longer Available
HEATER EVA
Part #D7549703

Common Symptoms of the TL120KL

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Icemaker producing few or no cubes and often leaving "kling-ons" on ice tray
816 of 915 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bernie from Diamond Bar, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determin ing what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
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Water overflowed ice maker turnning ice bucket into solid mass of ice
280 of 383 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Harry from Grand Ledge, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
My ice maker has been shedding its non-stick coating for over a year. Within the last month of so, it started pouring water into the ice bucket below, turning it into a solid mass of ice. So I purchased a new ice maker assembly. I encountered two problems not mentioned in the 21 or so do-it-yourselfer repair stories that precede this on e. First problem: one of the three screws that hold the ice maker to the refrigerator wall is hidden behind the large (black) end of the ice maker and is difficult to access. Before trying to replace the ice maker, make sure you have the physical dexterity to remove that screw. Second problem: it is not apparent how to remove the wire harness that plugs into the ice maker assembly. BEFORE you can remove the wire harness, you MUST remove the large white cap that covers the black end of the ice maker assembly and then push in a retaining tab to release the wire harness. If you don't do this, the wire harness will not release. Other than those two problems, it was relatively easy to remove three screws, unplug the wire harness, transfer three small, metal parts from the old ice maker to the new, plug in the new wire harness, mount the ice maker assembly so that the water tube is in the proper position, and then re-install the three screws. The ice maker works fine now. (P.S. I was told by an expert that the real problem might be a malfunctioning fill valve. I would have replaced the fill valve if replacing the ice maker assembly had not fixed the problem.)
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not making ice
78 of 93 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Pat from Dallas, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Installed new ice maker. It was easy - loosen two screws and unplug old wire harness. Put new unit in place. Did not realize new unit would not come with wire harness, but transferred old one to new ice maker (easy) and, "voila" some ice in 24 hours -- much ice since then. I am a 68 year old woman and it was "sort of fun" doing thi s job.
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