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TFXC27FLL General Electric Refrigerator - Overview

Diagrams for TFXC27FLL

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Ice Maker – Part Number: WR30X10093
$207.55
In Stock
Ice Maker
★★★★★
★★★★★
(98)
Part #WR30X10093
This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white. This kit includes a set of installation instructions, a 4-pin round plug-in connector, 6 post plug-in connectors, tube and fill cup. The ideal temperature of a freezer is zero degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature in your freezer is at an appropriate level yet ice is still not being made, it could be an issue with the water inlet valve or your ice maker assembly. If you determine it is the ice maker, this is the replacement you need. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. Ice makers will need to be replaced every 3-10 years depending on the frequency of usage and water quality. This model is mounted on the freezer wall.
Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch – Part Number: WR02X11330
$15.00
In Stock
Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(11)
Part #WR02X11330
Quick connector for plastic water line - 5/16" to 5/16"
LIGHT SWITCH – Part Number: WR23X37285
$38.32
In Stock
LIGHT SWITCH
★★★★★
★★★★★
(65)
Part #WR23X37285
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side – Part Number: WR72X209
No Longer Available
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WR72X209
The drawer slide rail in your refrigerator allows the door bin to slide in and out efficiently. If the slide rail is broken or missing it will need to be replaced. This slide rail is sold individually, and is for the left side of your refrigerator drawer bin. Be sure to order the correct replacement rail for your drawer. The rail is approximately 15 inches wide and is made of white plastic.
Defrost Timer – Part Number: WR9X489
$61.39
In Stock
Defrost Timer
★★★★★
★★★★★
(13)
Part #WR9X489
This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater.
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR72X208
No Longer Available
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
Part #WR72X208
This is a replacement drawer slide rail for your refrigerator. The slide rails allow the crisper pans to slide in and out efficiently. If the slide rail is broken or missing, the crisper pan will not be able to slide into position. This slide rail is for the right side of the refrigerator and is sold individually, so be sure to order the slide rail for the correct side. This part is made of white plastic and is approximately 15 inches in length. This is an OEM part from the manufacturer.
Run Capacitor – Part Number: WR55X24064
$61.39
In Stock
Run Capacitor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
Part #WR55X24064
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. This part has been updated by the manufacturer and may appear different than the original, but should function the same.
Package of 12 Screws – Part Number: WZ4X244D
No Longer Available
Package of 12 Screws
Part #WZ4X244D
This is a package of twelve Phillips-head screws. They can be used as replacement screws in refrigerators, ice makers, or freezers. Be sure to check that your appliance model is compatible with these screws. The screws are approximately ¾ of an inch in length.
Light Socket – Part Number: WR2X9391
$23.16
In Stock
Light Socket
★★★★★
★★★★★
(19)
Part #WR2X9391
This part is a replacement light socket for your refrigerator. It connects to the power source, and holds the light bulb. If the light in your refrigerator is not working, you could have a faulty socket. It is important to determine if the light bulb is simply burned out, or if the socket is causing the issue. Be sure to disconnect your refrigerator from the power source before you begin this repair. This socket is black in color and is sold individually. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Door Hinge Shim – Part Number: WR2X7491
No Longer Available
Door Hinge Shim
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #WR2X7491
This is the replacement door hinge shim, or riser cam shim for your refrigerator. It is made of metal and is approximately 2 inches in length, and 1 inch in width. Your refrigerator will have a door hinge shim on each door, and each shim is sold individually. The door hinge shim will have three holes in it; one larger hole, and two smaller ones. The door hinge shim is found on the bottom of your refrigerator door, and the main reason for replacing it is if it is torn or damaged. When you are completing this repair, the door will be briefly unsupported. As a result, it is recommended to remove everything from the door to make it as light as possible, and to ensure that the items in the door don’t fall out. This is an OEM part from the manufacturer.
Ice Dispensing Drive Cup – Part Number: WR2X4550
No Longer Available
Ice Dispensing Drive Cup
Part #WR2X4550
Found at the end of the auger in the ice container - replace when the icemaker doesn't dispense ice.
Ice Dispenser Solenoid Service Kit – Part Number: WR62X23154
$106.80
In Stock
Ice Dispenser Solenoid Service Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(8)
Part #WR62X23154
This kit includes 1 cube solenoid, 1 armature, 2 tooth washers and 2 1/4 hex head screws.

Common Symptoms of the TFXC27FLL

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No power to the fan and compressor
222 of 302 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Christian from Kearneysville, WV
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I have a fridge in my garage. I have found that a glass of ice water or a cold drink outside is very important to me. When I discovered melting ice dripping onto the garage floor I was very upset. I spun the fridge and found that the compressor and fan weren't starting. I got out my multi-meter and discovered that power was not makin g it to these components. I did some research and found the wiring diagram online. There really isn't too much going on with a fridge and the most likely candidate seemed to be the run capacitor. I ordered the part, replaced it in a few minutes and the fridge began working again.
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Refrigerator temp was warm
126 of 146 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Adrian from Louisville, KY
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
Per the trouble shooting guide on the home page of the website. I suspected the defrost timer was bad because ice had heavily accumulated on the back wall of the freezer compartment and the temperature inside the refrigerator was warm. First, I removed all the freezer racks. Then removed the (4) screws on the back wall in the freezer c ompartment. I then removed the ben from the ice maker to allow more room. Once I saw all the ice, I unplugged the refrigerator, and used a hair dryer to defrost ( it took about an hour to get it all). Once the ice was all gone, I then moved into the refrigerator compartment and removed the top shelve. This allowed me more room and access to the defrost timer which was behind the back panel. I used the trouble shooting guide to test the old timer prior to removing the new one from the package, (just in case I needed to send it back). Through this test I determined that the timer was bad, it wasn't the heating element or the t-stat. It was very easy to access, I removed the two knobs and lifted up the panel. I located the defrost timer and removed the screws as directed. I replaced the timer just as I had removed it, plugging in the electrical terminals per the removal process. I then reversed the order and put the panel and top shelve back on. Once all complete, I then moved back into the freezer compartment and replace the back panel and then the ice ben. I plugged it in and haven't had a problem since. This site has saved me a tremendous amount of money, a service contractor quoted us $300, to determine the problem. I ordered the part and it was sitting on our door stoop the next morning.
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Sticking Light Switch
122 of 178 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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