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TFX25PABGBB General Electric Refrigerator - Overview

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Bearing Slide – Part Number: WR1X2048
$18.22
In Stock
Bearing Slide
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #WR1X2048
Sold individually.
Bottom Hinge Assembly – Part Number: WR13X10020
$55.23
In Stock
Bottom Hinge Assembly
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(30)
Part #WR13X10020
Comes with both cam risers. This hinge kit is suitable for the bottom of either the freezer door or the refrigerator door of some refrigerators.
Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly – Part Number: WR51X10055
$92.28
In Stock
Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly
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★★★★★
(41)
Part #WR51X10055
The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over. The heater will get hot and melt any ice or frost build up around the coils.
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet – Part Number: WR02X10098
$16.05
In Stock
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet
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★★★★★
(14)
Part #WR02X10098
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic and is approximately one inch in diameter. If your grommet is torn or damaged and you are getting noise from the fan motor, you may need to replace it. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
$21.95
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
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(10)
Part #40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
LIGHT SWITCH – Part Number: WR23X37285
$38.32
In Stock
LIGHT SWITCH
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(65)
Part #WR23X37285
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
Hinge Cam Riser – Part Number: WR02X10140
$17.15
In Stock
Hinge Cam Riser
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Part #WR02X10140
This part helps with the closing of the door and helps keep it in position.
Freezer Wire Shelf – Part Number: WR71X1936
$101.22
In Stock
Freezer Wire Shelf
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(7)
Part #WR71X1936
This part is approx. 14 3 /4" L x 13 1/4" W. Sold individually.
Screw – Part Number: WH2X930
$16.05
In Stock
Screw
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(1)
Part #WH2X930
This screw is sold individually.
Screw – Part Number: WR01X10038
No Longer Available
Screw
Part #WR01X10038
This screw is sold individually. Size 8 -18 ab fltr 5/8.
Screw – Part Number: WR01X10065
$16.05
In Stock
Screw
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(1)
Part #WR01X10065
Size: 10-32 GXTT FLP .595 Sold individually.
Screw -  8-18 AB IHW 5/8 S – Part Number: WR01X10652
$15.00
In Stock
Screw - 8-18 AB IHW 5/8 S
Part #WR01X10652
Sold individually.

Common Symptoms of the TFX25PABGBB

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Sticking Light Switch
122 of 178 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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My wife said, "the refrigerator door won't close".
54 of 58 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gregory from Zephyrhills, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Our refrigerator is a double door unit with ice and water in the left door. The right door was the one with the problem. It was 5:15 AM when the problem occured. I could see that the door was out of alighnment and had dropped down - preventing it from closing. I lifted the door and closed it. I wrote down the model number and found a detailed drawing of the appliance on the web site "partselect.com". When the hing earrived I compared it to the broken one. I removed all the food stored on the door, put several pieces of wood under the door to shim it to the same height as the adjacent door. I then removed two bolts from the refrigerator with a 1/4" socket set. I put the shim from the old hing aside for later. I removed two bolts from the door with the same socket -Note a metal tab had to be bent silghtly so the wrench could go on the head of the bolt- I removed the plastic cam and made note of its orientation and that of the shim above it on the door. I put the shim and new cam in place on the door and installed the 2 bolts. I inserted the pin of the new hing into the hole in the cam (I had just mounted) on the door. I put the shim (the one put aside earlyer) behind the hing and replaced the two bolts. I held the shim and hing up against the door as I tightened the two bolts. When I was satisfied that the bolts were tight I removed the wooden blocks that were holding the door up so the door was supported by the new bottom hing assembly. The door now opperates perfectly and the refrigerator was not taken out of service for the repair. Total time including cleanup was a little over 15 minutes.
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Not cold & saw ice accumulated on freezer back panel
52 of 64 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eddie from Freeport, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
-Disconnect the power supply wire& turn temp control inside refrigerator to 0!
-15 mins spent on remove (5 screws) the back panel inside freezer, melt ice then replace the heater (2 screws) on the bottom! Black wire on left & pink wire on the right! Make sure both end has good connection to the heater!

-30 mins to drain al l water from the bottom (back side) of the refrigerator, suck & clean all dust & dirt from the front & back side!

-Set both temp control knots to 5 & put back all the food!

-If no ice build up on the panel after 10 days & then the repair is good!
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