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TFX22ZPBGAA General Electric Refrigerator - Overview

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Ice Maker – Part Number: WR30X10093
$207.55
In Stock
Ice Maker
★★★★★
★★★★★
(98)
Part #WR30X10093
This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white. This kit includes a set of installation instructions, a 4-pin round plug-in connector, 6 post plug-in connectors, tube and fill cup. The ideal temperature of a freezer is zero degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature in your freezer is at an appropriate level yet ice is still not being made, it could be an issue with the water inlet valve or your ice maker assembly. If you determine it is the ice maker, this is the replacement you need. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. Ice makers will need to be replaced every 3-10 years depending on the frequency of usage and water quality. This model is mounted on the freezer wall.
Defrost Heater Harness Kit – Part Number: WR51X10101
$69.02
In Stock
Defrost Heater Harness Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(17)
Part #WR51X10101
This dual heater kit replaces the single heater. It's redesigned to use two heating elements for a better defrost cycle.
Dispenser Door Assembly or Flapper – Part Number: WR17X11653
$33.60
In Stock
Dispenser Door Assembly or Flapper
★★★★★
★★★★★
(93)
Part #WR17X11653
This “Dispenser Door Assembly” (Door Recess Assembly, Ice Door Assembly, Dispenser Door, Refrigerator Dispenser Ice Chute Door Kit, Dispenser Door Flap, Ice Chute Door, Flapper) keeps the room air from infiltrating the freezer. Once the lever is pressed, the door flap opens and allows the ice to dispense into your container. If your door flapper is broken, it could allow outside air to enter the freezer and alter the inside temperature. You may notice frost buildup surrounding the dispenser area. The door flap can disconnect from the dispenser lever, or the tabs that hold it in place may break. Frequent use may distort the sealing face and cause air leaks and frost buildup. This part mounts in the ice dispenser, and measures approximately 3.25 inches in diameter. It is constructed of plastic and rubber, and comes in white/black. This part is sold individually.
Bearing Slide – Part Number: WR1X2048
$18.22
In Stock
Bearing Slide
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #WR1X2048
Sold individually.
Bottom Hinge Assembly – Part Number: WR13X10020
$55.23
In Stock
Bottom Hinge Assembly
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★★★★★
(30)
Part #WR13X10020
Comes with both cam risers. This hinge kit is suitable for the bottom of either the freezer door or the refrigerator door of some refrigerators.
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet – Part Number: WR02X10098
$16.05
In Stock
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet
★★★★★
★★★★★
(14)
Part #WR02X10098
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic and is approximately one inch in diameter. If your grommet is torn or damaged and you are getting noise from the fan motor, you may need to replace it. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
$21.95
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
Hinge Cam Riser – Part Number: WR02X10140
$17.15
In Stock
Hinge Cam Riser
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WR02X10140
This part helps with the closing of the door and helps keep it in position.
Plastic Tubing - 5/16 Inch – Part Number: WR17X2891
$40.56
In Stock
Plastic Tubing - 5/16 Inch
Part #WR17X2891
This part is the replacement water line for your refrigerator. It is a long plastic tube, which is 5/16 of an inch in diameter. If your refrigerator is leaking, or will not dispense water or ice, you may have a damaged water line. When you replace the water line, you may want to pick up a new water tube union as well. You can use a utility knife to cut the old water line where it is damaged, and use the union to attach the new water line to the old one. This tubing is sold individually and is an OEM part.
Primary Water Inlet Valve – Part Number: WR57X10023
$78.26
In Stock
Primary Water Inlet Valve
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #WR57X10023
This part has one port and 2 solenoids and comes with a mounting bracket. The water valve is a solenoid-operated switch located at the bottom of the refrigerator. When it is energized by electrical power, water is released from the supply line through the water valve and into the compact icemaker mold.
Water Valve and Bracket Assembly – Part Number: WR57X10026
$164.65
In Stock
Water Valve and Bracket Assembly
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★★★★★
(8)
Part #WR57X10026
This water valve assembly has been redesigned. It has a new quick connect style valve. To install: Cut original plastic nuts off tubing and gently push into valve until they stop. No other nuts or connectors needed.
Water Filter Adapter – Part Number: ADAPTER
No Longer Available
Water Filter Adapter
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★★★★★
(5)
Part #ADAPTER
This is a replacement water filter adapter for your refrigerator. It is approximately 2.5 inches in diameter and is made of plastic. The filter adapter allows you to connect your water filter to your refrigerator. If the adapter is broken, your ice maker may not dispense ice, and your refrigerator may not dispense water. This part is sold individually and is an authentic OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.

Common Symptoms of the TFX22ZPBGAA

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Leaking water valve
8478 of 12456 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Centerville, OH
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed black cardboard covering on back of refrig with nut driver (6 screws), turned off water supply to pump, removed cooper waterline to pump with adjustable wrench, removed 1 screw holding pump to refrigerator, removed plastic waterline from pump by turning hose counter clockwise. Inserter plastic water line in new pump by screwing li ne in clockwise, pushed orange plastic stop around waterline into pump, connected cooper water line to pump first wrapping threads on pump with teflon plumbers tape, reinstalled pump to refrig and cardboard back on refrig with 6 screws.

One side note:.

This is the second pump which has burst at the blue plastic seam in seven years.
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Defrost Heater blows out, refrigerator frosts up, then stops cooling
410 of 436 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stuart from Lynchburg, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Disclaimer - if you aren't confident about doing this repair, call a repair specialist in. Also, take care not to damage the freezer coils as they have refrigerant in them that I'm told is harmful if it leaks. It may also be under pressure. The instructions that follow won't require you to touch the coils. There is no need to unplug the r efrigerator or disconnect the water supply to do this repair. The screw driver you will need is a phillips (the one withe the + head).

1st, take out your frozen food (which, if you need to do this repair may not be frozen) and put it in a cooler or the refrigerator.
2nd, remove the ice cube bucket and dump the ice cubes in the cooler to help keep the frozen food cool. Turn the ice cube maker off.
3rd, remove the freezer shelves.
4th, locate the panel covering the freezer coils. It's a panel at the back of the freezer. It hides the freezer coils and protects them from damage. It's held in place by two screws located at the top left and right corners of the panel.
5th, unscrew the screws holding the panel to the refrigerator.
6th, detach the clip at the top of the panel.
7th, remove the panel. You should see the coils now. The coils will be covered in frost if the defroster heater has failed. If the coils are not covered in frost, there may be another reason for the refrigerator failing to cool.
8th, even if the coils are covered in frost, you should also inspect the defroster heater at the bottom, underneath the coils. The business end of it is a long tube running horizontally between two wires. If it's black like a badly burned out light bulb, then it's failed. If the bulb appears fine, you may have a different reason for your refrigerator and freezer frosting up. We'll assume that the defroster heater has blown out, and proceed.
9th, place a towel at the bottom of the panel space, to soak up any water that melts and runs down. There is a drain under the coils. It collects water that melts during the defrost cycle, but I'd rather mop up the water instead of relying on the drain.
10th, use hot air blowing from the hair dryer to defrost the coils. Just play the air from the hair dryer over the coils, starting at the top, and working down. The frost will quickly melt and the water will be soaked up by the towels. If you want things to go faster, you can throw hot water on the coils to melt them faster, but that produces more water to mop up, and makes a big mess. It's also dangerous to have water lying around if you then decide to use the hair dryer to continue defrosting the coils.
11th. MOST IMPORTANT. Don't use your screwdriver or any other sharp object to pick away at the frost on the coils. If you damage the coils the refrigerant could leak out. I'm told that it's dangerous stuff. Furthermore, I expect that you'd have to buy a new refrigerator if you damaged the coils.
12th, once you've defrosted the coils, locate the defroster heater and bracket assembly again. It's held in place by two screws, and has two insulated wires running into it on either side. Unscrew the screws, disconnect the wires and remove the assembly. Throw it away - there are no useful parts in it.
13th, install the new defroster heater and bracket assembly by connecting the wires to it, mounting it back into its place, and rescrewing the screws.
14th, put the panel back in place, replace the clip, and screw the panel back in place.
15th, turn the ice cube maker back on and replace the ice cube bucket and shelves. Put your food back into the freezer.
16th, use the freezer and refrigerator as normal. If the defroster heater fails again (I'm on my third one in less than six years), you'll notice frost building up on the panel at the back of the freezer before your freezer and refrigerator stops cooling. The frost build up is your signal to defrost the freezer and buy another defroster heater and bracket assembly. I don't know why this part is so weak, and don't know any fix except to keep replacing it.
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Water dispenser did not work (ice-maker did work)
91 of 106 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alan from Houston, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
This is a side-by-side frige with water and ice dispenser in the left freezer door. I first checked for possible water line freezing in the freezer door or in the water chiller area (behind the vegetable drawers) as described in e-articles I had read, but this did not appear to be the problem. I found two solenoid valve pairs; one that routes dispenser or ice-maker water to the filter and the other that routes the water to the end device. I ran a couple of tests on the solenoid valves and found that the first inlet valve that sends water to the filter did not work, but the second valve that relays the water to the dispenser was still working. By temorarily connecting the wiring for the dispenser solenoid to the functioning ice-maker solenoid, I confirmed that the wiring and switch were working properly and that the problem must be the solenoid itself (it also still hummed when the dispenser button was pressed). The entire quad solenoid valve assembly can be pulled out after removing the one hex-screw on the back of the frige (the assembly is all held together with a bracket). I disconnected the wiring connector to the solenoid valves. I disconnected the plastic water tubing by pushing it toward the fitting and then depressing the tubing inlet ring to release the tubing. I removed the two screws holding the solenoid valve and replaced it.
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