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TFX22VRSMWH Hotpoint Refrigerator - Overview

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Ice Maker – Part Number: WR30X10093
$207.55
In Stock
Ice Maker
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(98)
Part #WR30X10093
This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white. This kit includes a set of installation instructions, a 4-pin round plug-in connector, 6 post plug-in connectors, tube and fill cup. The ideal temperature of a freezer is zero degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature in your freezer is at an appropriate level yet ice is still not being made, it could be an issue with the water inlet valve or your ice maker assembly. If you determine it is the ice maker, this is the replacement you need. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. Ice makers will need to be replaced every 3-10 years depending on the frequency of usage and water quality. This model is mounted on the freezer wall.
Dual Inlet Water Valve – Part Number: WR57X10051
$57.38
In Stock
Dual Inlet Water Valve
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★★★★★
(17)
Part #WR57X10051
This valve comes with 1/4" compression inlet. NOTE: This part comes with new quick connections. To install - cut retaining nuts off of existing plastic water lines and gently push them into new valve. To remove - depress ring that the tube slides into.
Bottom Hinge Assembly – Part Number: WR13X10020
$55.23
In Stock
Bottom Hinge Assembly
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(30)
Part #WR13X10020
Comes with both cam risers. This hinge kit is suitable for the bottom of either the freezer door or the refrigerator door of some refrigerators.
LIGHT SWITCH – Part Number: WR23X37285
$38.32
In Stock
LIGHT SWITCH
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(65)
Part #WR23X37285
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
Defrost Timer – Part Number: WR9X489
$61.39
In Stock
Defrost Timer
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★★★★★
(13)
Part #WR9X489
This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater.
Defrost Heater with Thermostat – Part Number: WR51X442
$107.66
In Stock
Defrost Heater with Thermostat
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★★★★★
(18)
Part #WR51X442
This part assembly has 2 functions: The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over and the thermostat senses that the heat near the cooling coils has reached the desired temperature. Used with side by side models.
Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WR50X122
$54.95
In Stock
Defrost Thermostat
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★★★★★
(4)
Part #WR50X122
This clip on refrigerator defrost thermostat clips on to your refrigerator's evaporator. It will cut out at 60 degrees Fahrenheit and kick back in when the temperature drops to 32 degrees Fahrenheit.
Dairy Door – Part Number: WR22X383
No Longer Available
Dairy Door
Part #WR22X383
Evaporator Fan Blade Kit – Part Number: WR60X114
$34.93
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Blade Kit
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(6)
Part #WR60X114
This kit features a 5-blade plastic evaporator fan blade that rotates CCW and measures 4.5-inches in diameter and has a 3/8-inch-tall shaft. This kit also has a metal compression ring that secures the fan to the evaporator. The evaporator mechanism is normally located in the freezer and is responsible for pulling the warmer air over the condenser coils, cooling it off and then blowing and circulating that cooler air through the rest of the refrigerator. If the freezer compartment has a frost buildup or if there is a lack of cooling and airflow in your refrigerator, this fan likely needs to be replaced. To replace your evaporator fan, you will likely need a screwdriver and a set of pliers and check your user manual for the exact location of your evaporator fan.
EVAPORATOR FAN MOTOR KIT – Part Number: WR60X30349
No Longer Available
EVAPORATOR FAN MOTOR KIT
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(9)
Part #WR60X30349
This evaporator fan motor operates in a counter clockwise fashion. This motor's shaft is 3/8 of an inch and the motor has two right side terminals. NOTE: Harness wires NO longer come with the part.
Condenser Fan Motor - 115V – Part Number: WR60X187
$252.05
In Stock
Condenser Fan Motor - 115V
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(6)
Part #WR60X187
This part comes with 3 round pin connection terminals. This fan motor circulates the air through the refrigerator grille and cools the compressor and condenser coils. It also helps to evaporate extra water in the drain pan.

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Cracked housing on the vaave
288 of 308 people found this instruction helpful.
  • anthony from thornton, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
1. Turn off water supply, and electrical ( unplug it) to fridge.
2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.
3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.
4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.
5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines ar e still attached.
6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.
7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections.
- now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.
- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.
8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.
9. Attach electrical lines.
- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.
10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.
11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?
12. Unplug fridge
13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.
14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.
15. Plug fridge back in.
16. Take a clean glass.
17. Fill with water from the front.
18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.
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Defroster failure
128 of 145 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from North Attleboro, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Fridge was not really cold. Fan was working at back of freezer. Romoved the drawers and back panel of freezer compartment. Melted ice with a blow dryer and collected water with a towel so that it would not overflow the drip pan. Installed the new defroster units with 4 screws and the easy plug in wiring harness. Bingo! Defrost timer was probably OK but new one is easy to do.

Fixed in one day vs waiting for service call & payng $$$.
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Refrigerator temp was warm
126 of 146 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Adrian from Louisville, KY
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
Per the trouble shooting guide on the home page of the website. I suspected the defrost timer was bad because ice had heavily accumulated on the back wall of the freezer compartment and the temperature inside the refrigerator was warm. First, I removed all the freezer racks. Then removed the (4) screws on the back wall in the freezer c ompartment. I then removed the ben from the ice maker to allow more room. Once I saw all the ice, I unplugged the refrigerator, and used a hair dryer to defrost ( it took about an hour to get it all). Once the ice was all gone, I then moved into the refrigerator compartment and removed the top shelve. This allowed me more room and access to the defrost timer which was behind the back panel. I used the trouble shooting guide to test the old timer prior to removing the new one from the package, (just in case I needed to send it back). Through this test I determined that the timer was bad, it wasn't the heating element or the t-stat. It was very easy to access, I removed the two knobs and lifted up the panel. I located the defrost timer and removed the screws as directed. I replaced the timer just as I had removed it, plugging in the electrical terminals per the removal process. I then reversed the order and put the panel and top shelve back on. Once all complete, I then moved back into the freezer compartment and replace the back panel and then the ice ben. I plugged it in and haven't had a problem since. This site has saved me a tremendous amount of money, a service contractor quoted us $300, to determine the problem. I ordered the part and it was sitting on our door stoop the next morning.
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