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This “Dispenser Door Assembly” (Door Recess Assembly, Ice Door Assembly, Dispenser Door, Refrigerator Dispenser Ice Chute Door Kit, Dispenser Door Flap, Ice Chute Door, Flapper) keeps the room air fro...
$15.61
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The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the sw...
$8.58
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This is a replacement drawer slide rail for your refrigerator. The slide rails allow the crisper pans to slide in and out efficiently. If the slide rail is broken or missing, the crisper pan will not ...
$27.07
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This part is the replacement water line for your refrigerator. It is a long plastic tube, which is 5/16 of an inch in diameter. If your refrigerator is leaking, or will not dispense water or ice, you ...
$24.94
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This is a package of twelve Phillips-head screws. They can be used as replacement screws in refrigerators, ice makers, or freezers. Be sure to check that your appliance model is compatible with these ...
This is the replacement door hinge shim, or riser cam shim for your refrigerator. It is made of metal and is approximately 2 inches in length, and 1 inch in width. Your refrigerator will have a door h...
This clip on refrigerator defrost thermostat clips on to your refrigerator's evaporator. It will cut out at 60 degrees Fahrenheit and kick back in when the temperature drops to 32 degrees Fahrenheit.
$51.35
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First of all, the larger white plastic tubes in this thing are 5/16" OD, which no plumbing store seems to stock. At the lower left rear end there are 2 tubes, one for water and one for ice, that are doomed to fail being in proximity of a heat source - they essentially get cooked to the point of becoming brittle and cracking. The smaller
... Read more tube and union can be easily found, but do yourself a favor if the larger one cracks and order the plastic tube and water tube union here, and just cut off the brittle part and amend the old tube using the union.
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c
... Read moreatch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
After doing some research, I found that this problem is due to a defrost issue, and the easiest way to make sure you get it fixed is by replacing the defrost timer, defrost heaters, and defrost thermostat. The defrost timer is in the compartment in the fridge on the top level, behind the temperature settings panel. The defrost heaters w
... Read moreere behind the back panel in the freezer section, and are long glass tubes that are only attached by a couple screws. When you buy the parts, dont buy the heaters and a defrost thermostat seperately, because the heaters come with a new defrost thermostat already wired to them. Once you get the back panel off, its pretty self explanatory how to remove the heaters.