EasyApplianceParts is now PartSelect! We've merged our sites to provide a better shopping experience for you.   Full Details
✖

Find Parts

Parts Departments

Top Model Types

Top Brands

Repair Help

Expert Repair Videos

Keep typing for more specific results...

TFF24RRD General Electric Refrigerator - Overview

Diagrams for TFF24RRD

See every part. Know exactly what you need.

Enter a part description. DIY Heroes keep it simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Bottom Hinge Assembly – Part Number: WR13X10020
$55.23
In Stock
Bottom Hinge Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(30)
Part #WR13X10020
Comes with both cam risers. This hinge kit is suitable for the bottom of either the freezer door or the refrigerator door of some refrigerators.
LIGHT SWITCH – Part Number: WR23X37285
$38.32
In Stock
LIGHT SWITCH
★★★★★
★★★★★
(65)
Part #WR23X37285
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
Evaporator Fan Blade Kit – Part Number: WR60X114
$34.93
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Blade Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
Part #WR60X114
This kit features a 5-blade plastic evaporator fan blade that rotates CCW and measures 4.5-inches in diameter and has a 3/8-inch-tall shaft. This kit also has a metal compression ring that secures the fan to the evaporator. The evaporator mechanism is normally located in the freezer and is responsible for pulling the warmer air over the condenser coils, cooling it off and then blowing and circulating that cooler air through the rest of the refrigerator. If the freezer compartment has a frost buildup or if there is a lack of cooling and airflow in your refrigerator, this fan likely needs to be replaced. To replace your evaporator fan, you will likely need a screwdriver and a set of pliers and check your user manual for the exact location of your evaporator fan.
EVAPORATOR FAN MOTOR KIT – Part Number: WR60X30349
No Longer Available
EVAPORATOR FAN MOTOR KIT
★★★★★
★★★★★
(9)
Part #WR60X30349
This evaporator fan motor operates in a counter clockwise fashion. This motor's shaft is 3/8 of an inch and the motor has two right side terminals. NOTE: Harness wires NO longer come with the part.
Condenser Fan Motor – Part Number: WR60X177
$175.96
Special Order
Condenser Fan Motor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WR60X177
This condenser fan motor operates in a clockwise fashion. The fan itself has two 1/4 inch spade terminals. It carries 2 watts and 115 volts. This motor NO longer comes with cover for terminals.
Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WR50X60
$22.52
In Stock
Defrost Thermostat
Part #WR50X60
This refrigerator defrost thermostat will cut out at 60 degrees Fahrenheit and kick back in when the temperature drops to 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Use it for your GE brand refrigerator.
Defrost Timer – Part Number: WR9X480
$48.45
Special Order
Defrost Timer
Part #WR9X480
This refrigerator defrost timer will cycle for twenty-five minutes after every six hours of run time. The timer itself is made of plastic, but its terminals are bent and the leads are external.
Double Outlet Water Valve – Part Number: WR57X88
No Longer Available
Double Outlet Water Valve
Part #WR57X88
This double outlet valve has a garden hose thread for a tubing adapter, and is intended for use with refrigerators that have icemakers that make round ice cubes.
Heater and Bracket Kit – Part Number: WR49X392
No Longer Available
Heater and Bracket Kit
Part #WR49X392
This defrost heater kit contains the 2 heaters for some side-by-side refrigerators.
Evaporator Fan Motor – Part Number: WR60X162
$56.93
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Motor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WR60X162
This evaporator fan motor operates in a counter clockwise fashion. This motor's stack is 3/8 of an inch, and the motor has two terminals: one on the right side, and one on the left side. Use this evaporator fan motor for your GE brand refrigerator.
Front Wheel – Part Number: WR2X4858
$63.64
Special Order
Front Wheel
Part #WR2X4858
Fresh Food Door Gasket – Part Number: WR24X246
No Longer Available
Fresh Food Door Gasket
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WR24X246
This white door gasket is used to seal the refrigerator door when closed to keep the cool air inside and the room air out.

Common Symptoms of the TFF24RRD

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

Watch our pros, then fix it yourself.

See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory! View More

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Sticking Light Switch
122 of 178 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
My wife said, "the refrigerator door won't close".
54 of 58 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gregory from Zephyrhills, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Our refrigerator is a double door unit with ice and water in the left door. The right door was the one with the problem. It was 5:15 AM when the problem occured. I could see that the door was out of alighnment and had dropped down - preventing it from closing. I lifted the door and closed it. I wrote down the model number and found a detailed drawing of the appliance on the web site "partselect.com". When the hing earrived I compared it to the broken one. I removed all the food stored on the door, put several pieces of wood under the door to shim it to the same height as the adjacent door. I then removed two bolts from the refrigerator with a 1/4" socket set. I put the shim from the old hing aside for later. I removed two bolts from the door with the same socket -Note a metal tab had to be bent silghtly so the wrench could go on the head of the bolt- I removed the plastic cam and made note of its orientation and that of the shim above it on the door. I put the shim and new cam in place on the door and installed the 2 bolts. I inserted the pin of the new hing into the hole in the cam (I had just mounted) on the door. I put the shim (the one put aside earlyer) behind the hing and replaced the two bolts. I held the shim and hing up against the door as I tightened the two bolts. When I was satisfied that the bolts were tight I removed the wooden blocks that were holding the door up so the door was supported by the new bottom hing assembly. The door now opperates perfectly and the refrigerator was not taken out of service for the repair. Total time including cleanup was a little over 15 minutes.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Noisey fan/motor (bad motor bearing ?)
37 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Keith from Fort Worth, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed 2 phillips head screws to remove ice maker (could have just loosened them)
Pulled fan off of shaft
Removed 2 phillips head screws on motor bracket , disconnected three motor wires & removed motor.
reversed process to install new motor & fan blade.
Space was a little tight for two hand and arms, but do-able.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!