The hot water inlet valve on your washing machine controls the water flow into the washer. This inlet valve has a standard hose fitting inlet and one water outlet. The water inlet valve opens to allow water to enter the washing machine. If the water inlet valve is defective, the washer may leak, fill slowly, or not fill at all. To test yo...Read moreur valve, unplug the washer when the symptom occurs. If the washer continues to fill, then your inlet valve is defective. This part is approximately 3 inches long x 3 inches wide.
This magnetic door plunger, also known as the magnet holder, is built for your washer. When you order this part, you will receive the plastic housing and a spring that goes with it. The magnetic door plunger attaches to the inner door panel of the washer. It holds the door open when the washer is not running, and allows the door and tub s...Read moreeal to dry. This prevents mold and mildew from building up. Occasionally, the plastic tabs on the housing can break, and when this happens the part will need to be replaced. You may also notice that your washer lid or door will not close; this can also be a sign of a damaged magnetic door plunger.
This is a replacement sensor assembly for your washer. It may also be known as a motor rotor position sensor. The sensor assembly monitors the direction and speed of the spinning rotor and communicates this information to the electronic control board. If your washer pumps but will not spin or agitate, you may have a damaged sensor assembl...Read morey. This part is sold individually, and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. Be sure to shut off the power to your washer before you begin this repair.
This replacement water inlet valve is designed for use in washing machines to manage water flow during the cold water fill, bleach dispensing, and prewash cycles. It features a standard hose fitting inlet and three outlet ports—two angled 45 degrees to the right and one angled 45 degrees to the left—ensuring precise routing of water to de...Read moresignated compartments. Constructed for durability and compatibility with select models, this genuine OEM component helps maintain proper cycle performance and water distribution. Replacement is recommended if water fails to enter the machine correctly or if specific cycles are not functioning. Always disconnect power and water supply before installation.
This washer hose with bellows, also known as a dispenser hose, is a genuine OEM replacement part for your washer. Replacing this part can be helpful if your washer is leaking. The dispenser hose connects the dispenser assembly to the tub. Before beginning the repair, unplug the washer and turn off the water supply. You will need a Phillip...Read mores head screwdriver to complete this repair; a clamp tool can also be helpful. Remove the screws holding the lid of the washer in place, and take off the lid. Locate the dispenser hose and remove its clamps. Place the clamps on the new hose, using the arrows for a guide in positioning the clamps. Install the new hose and reassemble all other parts.
The tub bearing supports the spin basket shaft at the back of the washing tub. If your washing machine will not spin, is leaking water, or if there is a loud screeching noise during the wash cycle, there could be an issue with the tub bearing. This genuine OEM replacement bearing has a 3-inch outer diameter, and is used to help the tub sp...Read morein smoothly and to stop the washing machine from shaking during the cycle.
NOTE: This part is very difficult to install. The manufacturer recommends replacing the complete rear tub and bearing assembly at the same time.
This is a locking pin, and it works in conjunction with your washer. The part measures to be roughly 3 inches long, and less than an inch wide. The pin is cylindrical, off-white in color, and made entirely of plastic. This part is used to hold the shock absorber on the washing machine. There is a pin used at the bottom and top of the shoc...Read morek absorber. This model is sold individually. If your washing machine is experiencing an above-average amount of shaking and moving this part may be the reason.
This is an outer seal clamp designed for use within LG washing machines. This clamp tightens and secures the gasket that seals the washer tub from the door. If your gasket is loose fitting and is not damaged or warped, this clamp is likely worn out and in need of replacing. This clamp is an OEM part and is made entirely of metal, with a s...Read moretrong tension spring in the middle. This outer seal clamp is sold individually and will require a set of pliers to replace.
This shipping bolt is an OEM part that holds the tub and basket of your washer steady during transport, stopping them from moving around and getting damaged. You will usually find these bolts at the back of the washer, screwed into the frame. This is sold individually, but keep in mind that most washers need two of these bolts.
This is a door lock switch, compatible with various models of LG washing machines. This door lock switch is designed to communicate to the control board when the door of the washer is closed, so the door can lock and allow the washing cycle to safely begin. If your washer is having difficulty locking before it begins its washing cycle, or...Read more if it has difficulty starting in general, you may need to replace this lock switch. This switch is made primarily of black, gray, and white plastic, and will require a screwdriver/drill, and a pair of needle nose pliers to replace. This door switch is a genuine OEM part that will require you to disassemble part of your washing machine to completely replace it.
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LE Error Message and won't spin drum properly
255 of 339 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Mark from Harrisburg, PA
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Screw drivers, Socket set
I first tested the motor per the service manual. I checked the resistance between the terminals of the 3 pin connector. It's supposed to be 5-15 ohms. The motor checked out so I replaced the main electrical board. It turns out that wasn't the problem. After a brief web search I found out that the hall sensor (which is attached to the
... Read more motor stator) was the likely cause of the failure. I replaced that and everything works great now. And now I have a spare main board in case that ever fails. I also want to mention that I took the time to remove the dispenser box (where the water comes in and is directed to the different cleaning products) and cleaned it with a very strong bleach solution. It got rid of the mildew and funky smell. It seems that the fabric softener caused a lot of mildew to form inside the dispenser directly above the fabric softener tray. The bleach took care of that. This is probably something that should be done routinely to keep the mildew from forming.
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Door would not close
157 of 181 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Omnitech from Warrenville, IL
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
There is a magnet at the bottom of the door which allows the door to be held ajar when the washer is not in use to allow the tub and gaskets to dry. A tab on the plastic housing which retains the magnet broke which allowed the housing to pull free of the door and stick itself to the machine preventing the door to close. Easy fix to replac
... Read moree the magnet was $18. Instructions were included in the box. Part number on the drawing was A165. PS3618292 Magnetic Door Plunger
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LE fail code
30 of 32 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
scott from GODDARD, KS
Really Easy
30 - 60 mins
Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed back of washer with screw driver, Removed outer motor cover with a 17 mm socket (1 bolt), Removed motor stater using 10 mm socket (8 bolts). Left motor plugged in and and tipped to the side exposing the sensor. Unplug and snap off sensor. Reassembled in opposite order. Machine works great. Very easy fix, and perfect fit on part.