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TAA800 (P7575111W) Amana Washer - Overview

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Retaining Ring – Part Number: WP23748
$12.85
In Stock
Retaining Ring
Part #WP23748
The metal retaining ring, which is under an inch long, holds the rear wheels on the axels of the dryer. The main reason why it would need to replaced is if the retaining ring has sprung out of place or is damaged. Some the symptoms could be that your dryer does not tumble, it makes a loud buzzing noise, or if it pumps, but will not spin. The tools needed for this project are a putty knife, 5/16 nut driver, and snap ring pliers. Refer to the installation video and diagram for further instructions and guidance. Customers ranked this replacement project as easy.
Thrust – Part Number: WPW10121334
$7.47
In Stock
Dryer Screw – Part Number: WP90767
$7.47
In Stock
Dryer Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
Washer Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP596669
$7.47
In Stock
Washer Hose Clamp
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WP596669
This hose clamp is used in a wide variety of household appliances. Most often it is found in washers, dishwashers, refrigerators, freezers, dehumidifiers, garbage disposals, or air conditioners. This clamp is used to securely attach a hose to another part of your appliance, which helps prevent leaks from those connections. Depending on the appliance, it can attach hoses to drain pumps, water inlet valves, pressure switches, and injector nozzles. We recommend you refer to model-specific diagrams for appropriate uses and exact placement. This hose clamp is made of metal, and is sold individually. To access and replace this part you will need a nut driver, pliers, and screwdrivers. Before you begin any repair work, make sure you have unplugged your appliance, and shut off the water supply if applicable.
V-Style Drive Belt (32.5 inches long) – Part Number: WP28808
$57.38
On Order
V-Style Drive Belt (32.5 inches long)
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #WP28808
This v-style drive belt is thirty-two and a half inches long and half of an inch wide.
Adjustable Leveling Leg – Part Number: 22003428
$17.15
In Stock
Adjustable Leveling Leg
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #22003428
If your washer shakes or vibrates loudly when it reaches its max speed, make sure the 4 levelling legs are even. Adjust the legs so that the machine is level, and tighten the locking nuts on the legs that are threaded. Your washer should be kept as close to the floor as possible. Your model might have rear legs that level themselves, or it might have threaded legs all around. Make sure the rubber feet have not worn out. Replace any missing or damaged legs and feet. This genuine OEM replacement part is sold individually, so be sure to order the amount you need.
Spring Retaining Clip – Part Number: WP22001650
$9.62
In Stock
Spring Retaining Clip
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #WP22001650
This spring retaining clip is just under 1 inch long. The clip is made entirely of metal and is attached to the back wall of the washer, under the console. If your washer is vibrating and louder than usual during the wash cycle, your spring retaining clip could be faulty or damaged. Check the clip for visible damage, wear, and rust. If you notice any signs of damage, the part should be replaced. Remember to disconnect the power from your washing machine before starting this repair.
Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP285655
$9.62
In Stock
Hose Clamp
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WP285655
The hose clamp is used to hold the water hose in place which will prevent the hose from leaking water. Sometimes the clamp may lose its ability to latch on, causing a leaking washer. For the installation, you will need a flat head screw driver to replace the clamp and a drill to access the screws to remove the front of the washer. Be careful if you do not have specific clamp pliers as the clamp could fly off. Once the front of the washer has been removed, take a quick look for water damage or any obvious signs of where the leak is coming from. If it is not obvious, run water to test.
Dryer Screw – Part Number: WPY014874
$7.47
In Stock
Dryer Screw
Part #WPY014874
Sold Individually.
Inlet Hose - 5 FT – Part Number: WP89503
$19.30
In Stock
Inlet Hose - 5 FT
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
Part #WP89503
This hose can handle hot or cold water and is five feet long.
Washer Screw 818 X 1/2 – Part Number: WP3390631
$7.47
In Stock
Washer Screw 818 X 1/2
Part #WP3390631
This screw is sold individually.
Washer Inlet Hose Washer – Part Number: WPY013783
No Longer Available
Washer Inlet Hose Washer
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WPY013783
This inlet hose washer, also known as a high pressure inlet hose washer, is used in washing machines, refrigerators, freezers, and dishwashers. The function of this part is to create a watertight seal in the appliance. If your gasket gets dry and brittle over time it will start to crack and will lose its function. In this case, it is important to replace it. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions and accurate guidance. As a safety precaution, remember to unplug your washer from the power source before beginning.

Common Symptoms of the TAA800

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Frayed V-belt
63 of 70 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Milton, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
VERY EASY!!!
SAFETY FIRST-Always unplug the appliance.
Use 8mm socket to remove front panel screws. Loosened up two hose clamps connected to the pump and removed both lines (Hoses contain water, use a towel) which is located underneath the motor. Disconnect motor electrical connector on the left side of the motor. With socket, r emove 4 mounting bracket screws that secure the motor and pump assembly. Pull back the tension/idler pulley to loosen belt off the main pulley to the washer drum. Tilt and pull out motor/pump assembly. Underneath the pump, use star-bit to remove the pump from motor assembly to remove the belt. Install new belt on motor pulley (Good time to check for debris or anything restricing free movement of pump) and re-install pump. Install the motor/pump assembly and loosely secure the motor/pump assembly. Place the belt onto the motor pulley and pull back the tensioner/idler pulley to allow slack of belt to be placed on washer drum pulley. Put the belt on the lip of the drum pulley and rotate while pulling back the tensioner/idler pulley until the belt is seated on the groove of the drum pulley. Tighten the motor/pump assembley. Re-attach the 2 hoses and tighten down the clamps. Re-connect the electrical connector to the motor...Don't forget to plug in the washer and secure the front panel...Piece 'O cake, you're done! About 15 minutes to do the job. Much like changing a belt on most vehicles.
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Bearing went out causing lots of noise.
24 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • mike from hull, IA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
This is not a bad repair, but give yourself some time. I did not have to take the tranny and motor out, but the inner and outer tub and all related parts had to come out, along with the outer tub base. If you are replacing the tub bearing, you HAVE to order the seal kit. Don't try to skimp like I did, since you will need the seal kit as t his is what causes that bearing to fail in the first place. We forgot how quiet the washer was after I fixed it, and it saved us from buying a new washer since we were ready to say the heck with it and buy a new pair. You might need an 1.5 inch socket to get the big nut off the spindle, but I was able to get with a visegrip and hammer. The nice thing about this repair is even if you screw it up, you won't have water all over the place because of the seal design. I just checked under the washer a few times for the first few weeks and all seems fine.
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Brake pads were worn out
12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Kittanning, PA
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Unplug the washer
Took off the front with nut driver to two fasteners at the bottom.
Took off two tub springs using channel lock pliers.
Tipped the tub back for more hand room.
Took brake bolts off with box end wrench.
Put Screw driver above brake clamps and pried down to make the old brake pads drop down below th e seats and then take brakes off. You might have to use a screw driver to expand the brake clamps so they will release the brake. (brake clamps look like a pulley but the edges will spread some bit.)
Twisted large screw driver between the brake clamps and pushed new brake in as far as would go while beside (to the left or right of) the brake seat.
Pried brake clamps down and rotated brake around until it is lined up with the brake seat. Then pried pads up into the seat.
Re-twisted large screw driver between the brake clamps to separate them and pulled the brake pad back to within 1/8th to 1/16th inch of the back. This lined up the bolt hole.
Inserted the bolt with rubber grommett into the brake pad hole and twisted it counter clockwise and tightened with wrench. (If the bolt would not thread, then you have to adjust the brake pad forward or backward until the holes line up.) Tighten the bolt until it is firmly tight.

There are three brakes. Each is installed the same way. The one in back required a little cross legged contortion for me to reach around both sides of the motor and two front brake pad mounts. The key is lining up the bolt hole in the brake pad with the mount. I pretty well had it figured out after the second pad install. Time for me.. 4 hours. Cost, leg cramps, sore muscles from awkward positions, and the joy of not having to buy a new washer.

Return the springs to the tub on the front. Close front panel and return the two fasteners with the nut drivers.

How did I know I needed the brakes? When in agitation mode the tub spun the opposite direction of the spin cycle. When the agitator turned the opposite direction, the water inside went into a very strong vortex and sometimes sloshed out the top or around the top edges When there were a lot of clothes and a high fill level in the tub. We also had trouble with straps winding around the agitator. The tub spun so quickly that the water without agitation was driven to the top outer edges of the tub by centrifugal force.
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