This drain pump assembly is a genuine replacement part designed for select LG and Kenmore washing machines. It plays a critical role in removing water from the washer tub during the drain cycle, ensuring efficient water evacuation and proper cycle completion. Powered by an 85-watt, 120-volt motor, the pump is typically located near the dr...Read moreain hose at the bottom of the appliance. A failing pump may result in water remaining in the tub, incomplete draining, or unusual grinding or knocking noises during operation. Replacing the pump restores proper drainage and helps prevent water damage or cycle interruptions. Installation should be performed with the washer unplugged and may require basic tools and moderate repair experience.
This is a drain hose assembly for top-load models of LG washing machines. This hose specifically is used to allow water to drain from the tub to the drain pump of the washer. This hose is made of plastic and comes with two clamps to secure it within your washer, one on each end. If you notice your washer is leaking check to make sure if t...Read morehis hose is cracked or damaged, because it will need to be replaced immediately. This drain hose is an OEM part that is sold individually and will require you to disassemble part of your washer to replace it.
This clutch housing assembly with mode shifter, or washer drive shaft and shifter assembly, is made for your washer. It connects the appliance wash plate to the motor so the washer can shift the drive system between the appliance spin and agitate cycles. Is measures 14.5 inches in diameter. You may need to replace this part if you hear strange noises or if the washer will not spin or agitate.
This drain hose is a genuine OEM replacement part supplied by LG for use in their washing machines. It is a light gray pipe with a diameter of 1.25 inches. The drain hose is connected to the drain pump, and it is responsible for transporting water out of the washing machine after a cycle. If the drain hose is kinked, damaged, or clogged, ...Read morethe washer will leak, or you may find standing water in the drum at the end of the cycle. Each drain hose comes with a metal clamp for fastening.
This washing machine coupling assembly, also known as a shift actuator, is a key component in the drive system of select top-loading washers. It facilitates the transition between agitation and spin cycles by transferring motor power to the transmission, enabling the inner tub to rotate effectively. The assembly typically includes a geare...Read mored mechanism and brake actuator, both essential for smooth cycle operation. Common symptoms of failure include the washer not agitating or spinning properly, often due to wear or mechanical malfunction. While not universal, this part is compatible with a range of models and replaces several previous versions. Installation is considered manageable for DIY repairs, with instructional videos readily available to guide the process.
This lid switch assembly is a replacement safety component that detects lid position during operation. It is commonly replaced when the appliance will not start or fails to stop when the lid is opened.
This filter assembly traps impurities such as dust, debris, or particles, helping protect internal components and maintain efficient operation. Routine replacement supports performance, airflow, and overall appliance reliability.
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It did not drain water, cycle stops at rinse+spin.
28 of 36 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Jesus from El Paso, TX
Very Easy
15 - 30 mins
Socket set, Wrench set
1-Take water off manually. 2- Take machine to back yard. 3- lay machine 45 degrees. 4- Located water bump, (rear left side). 5-removed drain black hoses with hand. 6-removed 3 screws from bump frame. 7-Taker off all unit and marked down cable position at plug. 8- installed new pump. 9- Reverse all steps. Note: I did not use new cable su
... Read morepplied with the new bump, I did not want to mess around on mother board connections, I kept old wire harness which are only two cables blue and gray. It took me less than 30 minutes.
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LOUD GRINDING/ROARING NOISE, INTERMITTANT SPIN
10 of 13 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
MIKE from LANDENBERG, PA
A Bit Difficult
More than 2 hours
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Watch this video on youtube:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZKgP6hu8Fk very similar
Keep all parts separate and in order in a plastic box with dividers 1. Disconnect washer from wall. (electrical and hot/cold hoses, drain tube) 2. Remove center cap from bottom tub plate 3. Remove small bolt under cap 4. R
... Read moreemove bottom Tub Plate 5. Remover washer 6. Remove larger 38mm nut (I bought the correct deep well socket) Ive seen other video use a pipe wrench) 6a. Remove the large washer under nut NOTE- I did not remove the tub, total hassle, found it unnecessary, Yes the washer was heavier but nothing that cant be managed. 7. Place a blanket on the floor and lay the washer on its back to access the bottom. NOTE Everthing is nuts and bolts at this point. 10mm socket worked on all 8. Remove Nut & washer on rotor. Remove rotor-its has a line of magnets and the edges are sharp. Just wiggle it a bit. wear gloves if need be. 9. Remove bolts from Stator, user a small flat blade screw driver to undo 1 or 2 (some) electrical connections. Lay the stator aside. Move the electric connector(s) out of the way. 10. Remove the grounding wire at 6 oclock position 11.Remove the rectangular pack and the 3 oclock position by removing 2 bolts. It has a small arm that reaches out to the clutch arm, slide the piece out to the widest part of hole in clutch arrn an wiggle it loose. Almost there.... 12. Remove all the 10MM headed bolts from the clutsh and drive assemble The inner bolts are a slightly different style, keep the two sets separate. 13. Remove the clutch and drive.
NOTE: if the drive doesnt come out with a slight pull, you have missed a bolt(s)-inspect and remove as need be
14 Wipe clean the pocket in the outer wash tub that accepts the seal on the top of the drive. Lubricate the new drives seal completely with a little dishwasher detergent so it slides smoothly and seals well.
15. Assembly is the reverse:
Last Notes: *Install all bolts for the clutch and drive hand tight as you get everything lined up. *Once all bolt are in the clutch and drive are hand tight, tighten the bolts in a cross pattern as you would a wheels lug nuts *Snug the bolts used to attached the clutch and drive firmly 1/8 to 1/4 turn past snug *Make sure you clock the stator to the correct position, again hand tighten bolts then final tighten in a cross pattern. *The nut and washer in the rotor tighten to 1/4 to 1/2 turn past snug, its tight. *The large 38 MM nut on the top of the drive assembly torque is 88 ft lbs. Have a partner or friend hold the tub while you torque the large nut. If you don't have a torque wrench you can rent one from a number of auto-part chain stores. *I used a 1/2 Impact gun to remove the 38mm nut, Never use that kind of power to reassemble as it will damage parts.
Good luck, you can do it.
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Direct drive shaft broke right under the agitator plate.
6 of 7 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
EDWIN from FELTON, DE
Really Easy
30 - 60 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed the inner tub laid the washer on its side with a blanket under it and Removed the assembly then the shaft assembly. Installed the new assembly and re assembled the rest of the washer (top and bottom) and plugged it in. Works great. TIP: you will need a big socket set for the tub retaining nut.