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SWFX71NN1127 Speed Queen Washer - Overview

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Dryer Heating Element – Part Number: WP4391960
$33.69
In Stock
Dryer Heating Element
★★★★★
★★★★★
(60)
Part #WP4391960
This element carries 5200W and 240V. Note: This element no longer includes two terminals and two adapter leads. They must be ordered separately.
Retaining Ring – Part Number: WP23748
$12.85
In Stock
Retaining Ring
Part #WP23748
The metal retaining ring, which is under an inch long, holds the rear wheels on the axels of the dryer. The main reason why it would need to replaced is if the retaining ring has sprung out of place or is damaged. Some the symptoms could be that your dryer does not tumble, it makes a loud buzzing noise, or if it pumps, but will not spin. The tools needed for this project are a putty knife, 5/16 nut driver, and snap ring pliers. Refer to the installation video and diagram for further instructions and guidance. Customers ranked this replacement project as easy.
Thrust – Part Number: WPW10121334
$7.47
In Stock
Dryer Screw – Part Number: WP90767
$7.47
In Stock
Dryer Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
Washer Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP596669
$7.47
In Stock
Washer Hose Clamp
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WP596669
This hose clamp is used in a wide variety of household appliances. Most often it is found in washers, dishwashers, refrigerators, freezers, dehumidifiers, garbage disposals, or air conditioners. This clamp is used to securely attach a hose to another part of your appliance, which helps prevent leaks from those connections. Depending on the appliance, it can attach hoses to drain pumps, water inlet valves, pressure switches, and injector nozzles. We recommend you refer to model-specific diagrams for appropriate uses and exact placement. This hose clamp is made of metal, and is sold individually. To access and replace this part you will need a nut driver, pliers, and screwdrivers. Before you begin any repair work, make sure you have unplugged your appliance, and shut off the water supply if applicable.
Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP285655
$9.62
In Stock
Hose Clamp
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WP285655
The hose clamp is used to hold the water hose in place which will prevent the hose from leaking water. Sometimes the clamp may lose its ability to latch on, causing a leaking washer. For the installation, you will need a flat head screw driver to replace the clamp and a drill to access the screws to remove the front of the washer. Be careful if you do not have specific clamp pliers as the clamp could fly off. Once the front of the washer has been removed, take a quick look for water damage or any obvious signs of where the leak is coming from. If it is not obvious, run water to test.
Washer Screw 818 X 1/2 – Part Number: WP3390631
$7.47
In Stock
Washer Screw 818 X 1/2
Part #WP3390631
This screw is sold individually.
Washer Inlet Hose Washer – Part Number: WPY013783
No Longer Available
Washer Inlet Hose Washer
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WPY013783
This inlet hose washer, also known as a high pressure inlet hose washer, is used in washing machines, refrigerators, freezers, and dishwashers. The function of this part is to create a watertight seal in the appliance. If your gasket gets dry and brittle over time it will start to crack and will lose its function. In this case, it is important to replace it. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions and accurate guidance. As a safety precaution, remember to unplug your washer from the power source before beginning.
Inlet Hose Kit – Part Number: 202860
$19.75
Special Order
Inlet Hose Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #202860
This hose is almost 5 feet long and now comes with the washers for proper installation. It is used to bring water into your washer for the cycles.
Screw – Part Number: WP27001200
$7.47
In Stock
Screw
Part #WP27001200
Sold individually.
Washer Screw Ground – Part Number: WP3351614
$7.47
In Stock
Washer Screw Ground
Part #WP3351614
Siphon Break – Part Number: W10841299
No Longer Available
Siphon Break
Part #W10841299

Common Symptoms of the SWFX71NN1127

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Dryer quit heating. Suspected heating element was open
289 of 323 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bill from Morristown, TN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Unplugged the 220 volt source. Disconnected the vent line from the back of the drier. Removed the six screws holding the back panel with a 1/4 inch nut driver. Tipped the drier up at a 45 degree angle against the wall to give better access to the inside. Removed the screws holding the two thermostats to the side of the heater box and laid them aside. Disconnected the two red power lines to the heater element. Removed the large screw at the top of the heater box and removed the flexible bracket holding the heater box, then lifted the heater box up and away from the drier. Removed the one screw holding the heater element inside the heater box and pulled out the old heating element. The old element was open as found using an ohmeter on the two main terminals. Threw away the old element. Removed the new heating element from the box and slid it into the heater box making sure to align the terminal bracket with the hole in the heater box for the reinstallation of the mounting screw. Tightened this screw. Remounted the heater box to the two mounting slots and reinstalled the flexible mounting bracket to the top of the heater box and installed and tightened the large screw holding this bracket. Cut off and removed the old electrical push-on terminals from the two red power wires for the heater element. These were discolored and oxidated from the conducted heat over the years of operation. Using the supplied short red leads with push-on terminals already installed, I wire tied these new leads to the existing red power leads and pushed them onto the heater element terminals. Rechecked the soundness of the twisted wire connections to make sure they were tight. Replaced the back panel and reinstalled the six 1/4" screws with the 1/4' nut driever. Reinstalled the driver vent line and tightened its holding ring. Slid the drier back into position on the floor. Checked the level and readjusted the leveling legs for a steady floor stance. Reinstalled the 220 volt power connecter and set the controlls for a drying cycle. Let the drier run for aproximately 1 minute and then checked the air temperature inside the drier. IT WAS NOW PRODUCING HOT AIR. Project completed successfully and I was now a HERO in my wifes eyes. Absolutely no technical problems encountered. Just remember, unplug the drier before starting ANY repairs. To forget this COULD RUIN YOUR DAY.
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Dryer was not heating
100 of 109 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from Fort Collins, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This is the second heating element I have replaced in this dryer which I bought new in 1977. That's right it is 32 years old and still works great!

The replacement process is simple:
One: pull the dryer away from the wall so that you have room to work in the back.
Two: Disconnect the dryer vent hose from the back of t he dryer.
Three: Remove the five - 5/16" hex head sheet metal screws that hold the back cover in place and set the cover to the side.
Four: Go to the front of the dryer and remove the lint filter and the two slot head screws that hold the lint filter opening to the internal frame.
Five: Pop the top of the dryer open and remove the one 5/16" hex head screw that holds the top of the heating element strap to the frame.
Six: Go to the back of the dryer and remove the two leads from the thermostat that is mounted to the heating element casing. CAUTION: Be careful to note the position of the wires and be certain that you reattach the correct wire to the correct lead.
Seven: Lift the heating element case up about 1/2" to disengage the hooks at the bottom that hold it in place.Then pull the bottom of the heating toward you slightly while sliding it down. This will allow you to remove the heating element and casing.
Eight: Remove the heating element from the casing and insert the replacement heating element.

Reverse the above process to reassemble.
This entire process only takes about 20 minutes.

An additional note: Be certain that you pay careful attention to the positioning of the strap that holds the top of the heating element case to the dryer frame. If you install it incorrectly, the heating element case can fall away from the back of the drum assembly.
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Loads in the dryer took a very long time to dry often needing two full cycles to completely dry.
39 of 55 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rod from Galveston, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First, I moved the dryer out where it would be easily accessable. I then removed the back of the dryer using a nut driver. Once this was complete, I removed the cover holding the heating element. I disconnected the two wires and puled the old element out. I replaced it with the new heating element and reconnected the two wires. I then rep lace the back cover and moved the dryer back in place. The dryer works and heats much better now. Thankyou
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