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SHE53TL2UC
SHE53TL2UC (09) Bosch Dishwasher - Overview
Sections of the SHE53TL2UC
[Viewing 5 of 5]Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Door Seal
PartSelect #: PS8723143
Manufacturer #: 00494772
This seal is also referred to as a door gasket, and it is designed for use on dishwashers. It is installed on the door of the appliance, and it seals the space between the tub of the dishwasher and th...
$31.10
In Stock
Dishwasher Circulation Pump with Heater
PartSelect #: PS11724988
Manufacturer #: 12008381
This circulation pump with heater is for dishwashers.
Circulation pump with heater moves heated water through the spray arm to clean the dishes.
Unplug the dishwasher before installing this part...
$145.95
In Stock
SCREW
PartSelect #: PS8698543
Manufacturer #: 00189670
This part is the replacement screw for your washer. The head is approximately 1/4 inch in diameter and the screw is approximately 3/4 inch in length. It is made of metal and is sold individually. This...
$7.70
In Stock
Inner Door Panel Screw Kit
PartSelect #: PS8695919
Manufacturer #: 00151703
Includes 6 screws. You will need a size T20 Torx screwdriver.
$9.80
In Stock
Questions And Answers for SHE53TL2UC
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Common Symptoms of the SHE53TL2UC
[Viewing 10 of 10]Leaking
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Not draining
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Not drying dishes properly
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Not cleaning dishes properly
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Door latch failure
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Will Not Start
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Will not dispense detergent
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Will not fill with water
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Door won’t close
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Noisy
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
E:15 error code with Watertap
The E:15 error code means water is detected in the pan under the unit. There are several ways this can happen.
In this case, it was caused by a bad inlet valve. It did not close properly and led to an overflow of water inside that eventually spilled into the pan underneath the unit.
I see now why the pump keeps run ... Read more ning after this error. In this case, it would have led to a big flood in the kitchen if it did not.
I was actually able to run the unit while broke by manually operating the valve under our sink that provides water to the unit.
Be sure to turn off breaker before servicing. Don't get shocked!
Be sure to turn off water before starting! Or, you'll have a flood.
Anyway, I just pulled the unit out (was secured by 2 screws on the sides). I lifted up the insulation material on the left side to get at the valve. Pushed a little green tab to release the electrical plug. Then, use pliers to move clamp off the white water hose on the inside. Then, pull of white hose. This was hard in my case. Took a lot of force. Then, reach behind the unit and use pliers to unscrew water hose. Now, the whole gray panel there can pop out with some force. Then, slip the old valve out and slip new one in. Reconnect hoses and clamp. Note that I put some caulk on the connector where white hose goes. Not sure if needed or not.
Good luck!
In this case, it was caused by a bad inlet valve. It did not close properly and led to an overflow of water inside that eventually spilled into the pan underneath the unit.
I see now why the pump keeps run ... Read more ning after this error. In this case, it would have led to a big flood in the kitchen if it did not.
I was actually able to run the unit while broke by manually operating the valve under our sink that provides water to the unit.
Be sure to turn off breaker before servicing. Don't get shocked!
Be sure to turn off water before starting! Or, you'll have a flood.
Anyway, I just pulled the unit out (was secured by 2 screws on the sides). I lifted up the insulation material on the left side to get at the valve. Pushed a little green tab to release the electrical plug. Then, use pliers to move clamp off the white water hose on the inside. Then, pull of white hose. This was hard in my case. Took a lot of force. Then, reach behind the unit and use pliers to unscrew water hose. Now, the whole gray panel there can pop out with some force. Then, slip the old valve out and slip new one in. Reconnect hoses and clamp. Note that I put some caulk on the connector where white hose goes. Not sure if needed or not.
Good luck!
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Parts Used:
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Raymond from VIENNA, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers
25 of 37 people
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E15 code basin filling up with water
Turned off electric
Slid out unit - the water connection on this model is in the back
Disconnected the H2O hose. This valve access part is the part that connects the dishwasher to the H2O supply. The soon to be replaced part had sediment in it preventing H2O to go into the dishwasher and into the basin instead. The exploded view ... Read more of dishwasher was a big help. It was a guess as to why this was happening. Now that I’ve had it apart it makes sense that this is the part that would fail after a period of time, especially if you have city H2O. My husband Bob did this repair.
Slid out unit - the water connection on this model is in the back
Disconnected the H2O hose. This valve access part is the part that connects the dishwasher to the H2O supply. The soon to be replaced part had sediment in it preventing H2O to go into the dishwasher and into the basin instead. The exploded view ... Read more of dishwasher was a big help. It was a guess as to why this was happening. Now that I’ve had it apart it makes sense that this is the part that would fail after a period of time, especially if you have city H2O. My husband Bob did this repair.
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Parts Used:
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KATHLEEN from PECONIC, NY
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
8 of 8 people
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Water leak on top of door.
Went to on line video and followed it. The old gasket came right out and the new one fit right in. Started at the top middle and worked the gasket in on both sides to make sure it was evenly spaced.
Parts Used:
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Phyllis from CLERMONT, FL
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
6 of 6 people
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