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SBD20JW Amana Refrigerator - Overview

Diagrams for SBD20JW

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Replacement Ice Maker – Part Number: D7824706Q
$95.17
In Stock
Replacement Ice Maker
★★★★★
★★★★★
(187)
Part #D7824706Q
This ice maker (Ice Maker Assembly, Refrigerator Ice Maker) produces ice cubes that are ejected into the storage bucket. It is located in the freezer section of your appliance, mounted on the freezer wall. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. If this happens, your refrigerator may no longer make ice cubes, or may not make enough cubes, and the part should be replaced. This model measures approximately 11 inches long and 5 inches wide. It’s constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white/silver. This assembly includes the ice mold and the control device.
Door Closure Cam Kit – Part Number: R0181181
$9.62
In Stock
Door Closure Cam Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(22)
Part #R0181181
This door closing cam kit is intended for use on the bottom of your refrigerator and freezer door hinges. The cam helps close the doors and to lifts them slightly when opened. If your door will not open or close, or will not stay closed, there could be an issue with the door close cam. Other common symptoms associated with the door close cam are: the door is sweating, the fridge is too warm, or a clicking sound can be heard coming from the door. If your refrigerator has an ice and water dispenser, you will need to disconnect the power and water to the unit before you begin the repair.
Refrigerator Kick Plate Grill Clip – Part Number: WPM0117303
$9.62
Special Order
Refrigerator Kick Plate Grill Clip
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WPM0117303
This refrigerator kick plate grill is sold individually. Order two if you need to replace both clips. *Please note, if you are ordering the kick plate, check with your model number as these parts may be included.
Kickplate Grille – Part Number: D7786703
No Longer Available
Kickplate Grille
Part #D7786703
Clips are sold separately.
Refrigerator Door Shelf – Part Number: 67003700
No Longer Available
Refrigerator Door Shelf
Part #67003700
Sold individually.
Evaporator Fan Motor – Part Number: WPC8891605
$191.50
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Motor
Part #WPC8891605
This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated.
Door Bucket – Part Number: 67003696
No Longer Available
Door Bucket
Part #67003696
Refrigerator Door Gasket – Part Number: WP10359708Q
No Longer Available
Refrigerator Door Gasket
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WP10359708Q
This refrigerator door gasket is approximately sixty and a half inches long and twenty inches wide. It is all white in color and it is made of rubber. This door gasket is intended for use with the fresh food door of some refrigerators.
Crisper Pan – Part Number: D7782017
No Longer Available
Crisper Pan
Part #D7782017
DISCONTINUED – Part Number: D7827316
No Longer Available
DISCONTINUED
Part #D7827316
BLADE-FAN – Part Number: 12033101
No Longer Available
BLADE-FAN
Part #12033101
Door Handle – Part Number: D7826603
No Longer Available
Door Handle
Part #D7826603

Common Symptoms of the SBD20JW

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Icemaker producing few or no cubes and often leaving "kling-ons" on ice tray
816 of 915 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bernie from Diamond Bar, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determin ing what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
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Water overflowed ice maker turnning ice bucket into solid mass of ice
280 of 383 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Harry from Grand Ledge, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
My ice maker has been shedding its non-stick coating for over a year. Within the last month of so, it started pouring water into the ice bucket below, turning it into a solid mass of ice. So I purchased a new ice maker assembly. I encountered two problems not mentioned in the 21 or so do-it-yourselfer repair stories that precede this on e. First problem: one of the three screws that hold the ice maker to the refrigerator wall is hidden behind the large (black) end of the ice maker and is difficult to access. Before trying to replace the ice maker, make sure you have the physical dexterity to remove that screw. Second problem: it is not apparent how to remove the wire harness that plugs into the ice maker assembly. BEFORE you can remove the wire harness, you MUST remove the large white cap that covers the black end of the ice maker assembly and then push in a retaining tab to release the wire harness. If you don't do this, the wire harness will not release. Other than those two problems, it was relatively easy to remove three screws, unplug the wire harness, transfer three small, metal parts from the old ice maker to the new, plug in the new wire harness, mount the ice maker assembly so that the water tube is in the proper position, and then re-install the three screws. The ice maker works fine now. (P.S. I was told by an expert that the real problem might be a malfunctioning fill valve. I would have replaced the fill valve if replacing the ice maker assembly had not fixed the problem.)
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Door would not close
79 of 84 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Russ from Asheville, NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After emptying the refrig. door, I unscrewed the plate on the top of the refrigerator that covered the door bolts. Then off with the three bolts. I removed the door by lifting it up a few inches. The two parts of the door cam were easily removed and replaced with the new part. BEFORE REPLACING the door spread vasoline on both cam parts.
(Not after as I did. The second time you do any of these repairs go SO much better :o)
After putting the door back on, adjust the tension of the screws holding the door in place if needed to align the door on the cams so that it shuts completely. Failure to do this will require taking the top off the door again. (see comment above on "... second time...")
If all is properly aligned, the door should swing completely shut.
Even with the mistakes that required removing the door to lubricate the cams, and removing it AGAIN to readjust the screws on the top to properly align the door on the cams, this was a twenty minute job. My wife and I were still speaking to one another at the end of it- a sure sign of an easy repair.
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