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S2100G9WW General Electric Washer - Overview
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$39.42
In Stock
DAMPENING STRAP 2PACK
Part #WH01X39337
The tub dampening straps support the wash tub and reduce vibration by keeping the tub at the center of the cabinet. If your washer shakes and moves, or is making a loud banging noise during the wash cycle, the washing machine tub could be off-balance, meaning one or more of these straps may be loose, or broken. Other symptoms include: the...Read more washer leaking, not agitating, or pumping but not spinning. These straps are sold individually. However, we recommend that you replace all 4 straps at the same time. It is also recommended that you check the tub for cracks where these straps mount.
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$40.02
In Stock
Control Knob and Clip - White
Part #WE01X20378
This set (Knob and Clip Assembly, Control Knob, Dryer Control Knob) allows you to replace the knob on your timer if it is damaged or missing. The plastic knob can break around its shaft, or the retainer clip inside the knob can fall out and no longer stay securely on the control shaft. If your knob no longer stays in place, it’s time to p...Read morelace it. The knob is attached to the d-shaped shaft of the control mechanism. This model has a 2 inch diameter, 1-1/14 inch depth, and comes in white plastic.
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$13.92
In Stock
Timer Knob
Part #WH01X10310
This is a replacement timer knob for your washing machine. To complete this repair you will need a pair of needle nose pliers. Turn off power to the washer before you start. Pull off the timer knob and use your pliers to remove the retaining clip. The new knob will already have a clip in place. Line up the knob opening with the shaft and slide it on.
No Longer Available
D-Shaped Knob Clip
Part #WH01X10106
This clip ensures that the knob is securely fastened to the control shaft, allowing you to properly select the correct time and setting for your dryer. If your dryer will not start or shut off, the timer will not advance, or the dryer shuts off too soon, the issue may be the control knob itself. This clip is sold individually. Although th...Read moreis part fits with some different brands, be sure to check the list of brands below to make sure it fits with your dryer unit. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions.
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$36.37
In Stock
Drain Hose
Part #WH41X10096
The drain hose is black in color and made of flexible material. This is a part for your top-load washer. The hose measures 57 inches long. This part moves the water out of the washer and into the drain. If this parts cracks or becomes damaged it will leak during the drain cycle of your wash and you may find water on the floor. To access t...Read morehe hose, you will need to move the washer away from the wall to get to the back of the appliance. There will be two screws holding it in place that will need to be removed.
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$61.55
In Stock
Drain Pump and Motor Assembly
Part #WH23X10030
This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time. If you notice that your washing machine will not drain, there is a good chance that you will have to replace the drain pump. The drain pump is located inside the washing machine, near the bottom. To acces...Read mores the drain pump for this repair, you will need to remove the front panel. Before you begin this repair, be sure that the power source is disconnected and the water source is shut off.
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$16.09
In Stock
Dial with Compression Ring
Part #WH11X10049
This timer dial with compression ring shows you which part of the cycle your washer is in. It is white in color and can be found mounted on the timer shaft. You may need to replace this part if your old timer dial is cracked or damaged, or if it is not indicating correctly. This part is sold separately from the timer knob, and the timer knob clip.
$22.24
In Stock
Tub Seal
Part #WH02X10383
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. Its the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. If your washer is leaking during the fill cycle, or at agitation time, your tub seal may need to be replaced. You can check if the tub seal needs to be replaced by watching that area during an ac...Read moretual fill cycle. Take off the front panel, or if it is a front-loading washer, the rear panel. Without touching the washing machine, observe the place where the shaft of the transmission comes into the tub and the weep holes at the housing of the rear bearing. If there is water leaking, the tub seal is at fault.
NOTE: This seal is difficult to replace and should probably be installed by a qualified technician.
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$16.05
In Stock
Tub Bearing Washer
Part #WH2X1197
This is a tub bearing and it is meant to work in conjunction with your washing machine. The purpose of this part is to aid in keeping the inner tub of your washing machine spinning smoothly during a wash cycle. The most common reasons for needing to change your tub bearing is if your appliance is noisy or shaking/moving during the wash cy...Read morecle, another common symptom is leaking water. This part is sold individually and measures to have an inner diameter of roughly 1 inch, and an outer diameter of roughly 2 inches.
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No Longer Available
Split Ring
Part #WH02X10265
This split ring is supplied by the original equipment manufacturer, and it is designed to secure the tub bearing in washing machines. It is a circular metal ring, with an outer diameter of 2 inches. The ring has a split or gap, which allows it to expand and contract for easy installation and removal. It is typically located on the inner s...Read moreide of the washing machine outer tub, where it provides stability and prevents the washer from excessively shaking during use. It is normal for the split ring to become worn, corroded, or damaged due to age, exposure to moisture, and excessive stress. A faulty split ring will lead to a noisy, unstable washer and eventually cause the tub assembly to fall out of alignment. Remove the washer panels to access the outer tub and split ring. Carefully detach the damaged split ring from the tub and position the new split ring in its place. Ensure that it is properly aligned and securely fastened before reattaching the panels.
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$43.94
In Stock
Tub Bearing
Part #WH2X1198
This tub bearing goes in your washing machine. You will find it on the bottom of the outer tub, where the transmission goes through the tub. If you hear metal on metal when the washer is spinning, you may need to replace the tub bearing. This bearing is made of metal, and is approximately 3 inches wide and 2 inches tall.
$30.39
In Stock
Agitator Coupling
Part #WH43X10032
Bolt not included. This part connects the transmission drive shaft to the agitator base.
Common Symptoms of the S2100G9WW
How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.
Leaking
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Will not drain
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Will not agitate
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Will Not Start
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No hot or cold water
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Shaking and Moving
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Burning smell
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Touchpad does not respond
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Spinning Issues
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Noisy and Marks Left on Clothes
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Marks left on clothes
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Timer Not Working
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Won’t Start
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Cycle Not Advancing
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Draining Issues
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Noisy
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Washing Machine was not draining water from tub.
304 of 334 people
found this instruction helpful.
1. Drained the wash tub by taking the drain hose from the back of the washing machine and dropping it below the tub - water flowed out of hose a lot easier than trying to suck water out of tub using a pump (tried this on the first time I tried to fix washer). (Washing machine on 2nd floor of house and didn't want water running on floor)<
... Read more
br />2. Removed the 2 bolts holding the Pump/Motor assembly to the machine.
3. Removed both hose clamps on the Pump/Motor assembly and removed Pump.
4. Attached the new drain inlet hose to the pump and then to the tub with the original hose clamps.
5. Attached the drain hose to the pump and then plugged in the 2 wires for the pump.
6. Plugged in the washing machine and everything worked.
NOTES:
1. Hardest part was working with hose clamps (spring type clamps) in the tight space under the machine.
2. Easier to fix since I pulled machine apart a few days before - removing the clog in the pump/motor assembly only to get everything back together to find out that the motor was dead. Still well worth the time and effort due to not having to go out and buy a new Machine...
3. Removed both hose clamps on the Pump/Motor assembly and removed Pump.
4. Attached the new drain inlet hose to the pump and then to the tub with the original hose clamps.
5. Attached the drain hose to the pump and then plugged in the 2 wires for the pump.
6. Plugged in the washing machine and everything worked.
NOTES:
1. Hardest part was working with hose clamps (spring type clamps) in the tight space under the machine.
2. Easier to fix since I pulled machine apart a few days before - removing the clog in the pump/motor assembly only to get everything back together to find out that the motor was dead. Still well worth the time and effort due to not having to go out and buy a new Machine...
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